spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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What, like pondlife:confused1: Always had you down as a dapper gent of great depth:thumbup:
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Remove the cylinder before causing irreparable damage!
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No, it is the phone - old school:001_tongue:
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Using rope is a good practice when you are careful and know what you are doing. Issues arise when you don't know what you are doing:001_rolleyes: This one just depends where the rope has sheared and if any has been lost. If it has just been sheared in the exhaust port then it is a relatively simple job but if some has gone in to a transfer, the remains may end up floating round the engine and that may cause issues if fibres float around the piston or main bearings. Foreign bodies in engines like this can easily cause slight undulations in the cylinder wall severely knocking compression......just saying!
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Basically, house prices have rocketed, mortgage borrowing levels have increased to meet the house price level screwing down the borrower, the bankers buggered the economy and the influx of foreign labour has stagnated wages to the point they haven't increased significantly since 2008 and probably earlier. In 1980, I could walk in to a job tomorrow, now you need a degree to flip a burger and wages are in stagnation unless you are some whizzzz kid! The reason for this, free movement of labour and that is about it. The real worry is what the 20-35 year olds will do in regards to savings and pensions if they are struggling to afford a house! Chances are that they won't get a chance to retire! Comes to something when parents are expected to be guarantors on loans and mortgages...... what happens when they have gone?
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I think you are mixing the fuel line and impulse line. The impulse line runs from the base of the cylinder and NOT the fuel line.
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In my books a speciality item is Crispy Duck & Hoi Sin Sauce Pancakes:thumbup:
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Now how could I comment on that:sneaky2:
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So is mine and it was.....1807, was it really that longeth ago sire:sneaky2:
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Joe is probably bang on, the MS150 does fail in this area and the engine mounts can also come undone - the earth connects to the top mount and is as Joe mentions! In bad cases, the bolts shear or just mash up the mount.
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Just fine another two, on longevity, I stick to known parameters and usually resolve the issues that may seize the saw rather than make it more fragile. Never had one back!!!
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Not heard of any issues with the autotune saws I have ported, I usually am taking an issue saw back to reliability!!! :confused1:
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Not sure about me porting it after all I only managed to get a 30% improvement on a saw that was already wearing a jungle muffler. Not much really:sneaky2: Reckon the 3/8 will be faster on a short bar, bigger chip, deeper cut etc. The 0.325 is faster on sub 60cc saws and is marginal on 60cc. The 8 pin is a good idea on 16 and possibly 18" bars.
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The hottest part of the engine is the exhaust side. It is uncommon for a piston to seize around to the inlet side and as others have said, removal of the muffler is the easiest way of inspection, removal of the cylinder is more complete!
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The compression reading is pants, 90psi isn't enough for combustion. Pick the saw up, hold the starter and let it fall to full extension and time the drop. Probably more accurate than your gauge! If it is actually running but not well and there is no scoring on the piston, chances are you will waste your money on a new cylinder!
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Will the saw rev out? If it does and it just wont idle then I would suspect some sort of binding in the clutch area or a busted clutch spring. I would try to keep the revs up at fast idle and then drop them down gradually and see if the chain will stop at a slightly fast idle. 880 do get issues with oilers which can cause issues. Worth pulling the drum off and cleaning/get some oil around the bearing etc and see what gives. It may just need a carb tweak, you could have developed an air leak or just needs a bit of sorting in the clutch area.
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Sorry, never took it that you meant I would make a balls up of it. Will PM you the costs.
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Well I have done more than I can care to remember. The compression goes up to circa 200psi, they rev that bit harder, have more torque and go in the cut. I would guess the best people to ask are the people on this forum that I have done them for. Most find that my service and porting on an MS200 makes for a solid reliable machine and they get good value. The 200 is one of those machines that you do a lot of small bits that ends up to a good end result!
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In what respect? generally a hole in the outer casing.
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Another four MS200s have landed, just done two last week, I should have made a note of how many I have sorted this year:thumbup:
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You missed the rubber band in the bacon roll! And my prices change with how old my customers think I am:sneaky2:
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Bugger.....is Mendip Jon back:lol:
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A carb is a carb TBH. The carb pulls fuel from the tank using the pump diaphragm which is the brown thin diaphragm and not the black one. The carb is a Tillotson HL and at one time or the other an extra pump stack was fitted on the carb on some saws to pull fuel from the tank more efficiently. Try cleaning the carb down, trying to start the saw and then strip the carb again and see where the fuel has got to and this will indicate what is going on. One place to take a look at is the filter under the small single screw cover on the lower bowl, this may be blocked and was sintered metal on the older saws. Some of these carbs had a screw that you can remove and crank the saw to see how many pulls would pull fuel through but don't know if this was one of them. Here is mine - you can see the screw on the top of the carb!
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I deduce from the eBay user name....they may be:sneaky2:
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I have heard the Stihl assembly staff on the production line like a bit of pork scratching and a stein of Weiss bier to motivate them.....the mystery deepens:sneaky2:
