spudulike

Hey....my customers give me cakes...they get working saws:confused1: Saying that...you never gave me cake:sneaky2:

It depends on the saw, generally between £150 and 170 and it includes a full and deep service, pressure/vacuum check, carb strip and check and a good clean up if necessary. If the saw is a wreck, I may charge a little extra but only if it looks like it has resided in the Grand Union Canal for a while! I have saved many from near seize and returned them fully modified.

That's OK, just bitchin:sneaky2:

My opinion is very much like Barries (GardenKit) we both come from a similar generation where you do things right. If a sprocket is shagged, it gets changed, if it is borderline, you ask....simple - yours sounds .......shagged! The bar and chain, if they are fitted which is rare due to the nature of my business model, they are checked and sharpened if in a state. If the owner requests the B&C to be checked and/or replaced I request which type etc. If the bar and chain are in reasonable fettle then I leave it as many pros would hang you if you touched their chain with a grinder! I do a couple of types of service, the typical £70 compression check, inspection, clean up, tune and back out or the £120 full strip down, pressure/vacuum/compression checks, fuel system overhaul, recoil overhaul, chain brake overhaul.........and lots more. Most pro users take the second option and it works. Most home owners take the cheapest option not understanding why a 15 year old pro saw they have got of ebay should ever need a full strip and inspection:001_rolleyes: I go a lot on recommendation when I spend my money and I seem to be doing things right from the repeat business and referrals I get! Your saw should have had a new sprocket if it is that worn and a note about the bar and chain being badly worn!

I like my Echo kit, the only kit I haven't modified and always works as it should:thumbup:

If you like the 346 then the 357 is the next logical choice, feels like a big 346.................. or just port the 346:thumbup:

Looks like Arbtalk may have fixed it rather than Matt:001_tt2:

Yeah, makes men out of boys:lol:

What.....Ghost-busters:confused1:

If it sounds like an intermittent rev limiter then check the leads that run around the top AV mount just in front of the air box, they often chafe! An air leak will tend to make the saw rev to high, hold on to descending revs and cause uneven or fast idle. A BIG airleak will cause a real boggy saw and will possibly give the symptoms you have.

Take an old spark plug and bend the end electrode out at a 45 degree angle to enlarge the gap some. Stick it in the plug cap, earth on the cylinder and give it a big pull. If it sparks then the coil is most likely OK!

Oh Mama mia, Mama Mia, Mama Mia let me go..... Beelzebub has a HOBNOB put aside for me, for me....FOR MEEEEEEeeeeee:lol:

What about the chocolate ones?

What a rubbish list, hobnobs are a biscuit that punches above its weight and reside near the bottom of the list:confused1: Custard creams higher up:001_rolleyes: Shortbread so low:001_rolleyes: The best ones are the Foxes Premium Chocolate collection .....very subjective and depends what you like!

I would usually pop off the muffler and inspect the piston through the exhaust port - if it is scored, the lack of compression could be causing your issues despite it feeling OK! Failing that and assuming you have fitted the carb parts correctly, it may be a split manifold, faulty seals or impulse line. The fast running sounds like a big air leak so don't just adjust the carb as it is likely to seize if not corrected!

Usually only takes days rather than weeks from L&S, just depends if there are any in the UK and would think there would be being a popular machine.

The rubber pipe the bottom of the carb pushes in to when pushed against the manifold. The little brass elbow should go in to it and it should be connected to the top lip of the crankcase just below where the cylinder mates with it. It takes the positive and negative pressure from the crankcase to pump fuel from the tank to the carb via a pump gasket......thought everyone knew that:sneaky2:

Have you popped the alloy cover off held on with one screw and checked the gauze filter - sometimes it can have a scum on it that looks clear until it is taken out, dried and looked at under a magnifier! Have you tried tuning the carb - one screw on the H&L screw and adjust the idle to suit? Other than that, the impulse line may be leaking or split.

What you see is circa £25 worth of filters, what the manufacturer charges for them is another matter. It is more annoying on standard service parts like these and less so but still a bone of contention on saw cranks and pots etc!

That pressure is entirely normal on most saws especially the ones with the tank breathers that let in air but don't allow pressure to dissipate. When you put the tank cap on, it pressurises the tank and also temperature changes make for a good soaking if you don't clamp the hose!

Was it possible you split the hoes on fitting or stuck a screwdriver through it? Other than that, perhaps some crud got hauled through to the carb gauze filter. If the previous one was split/damaged and the carb had been adjusted to accommodate it, it may need readjusting.

Thanks Andy, I am a mere hammervthst knocks the nail in:thumbup:

The crank should be held in place by it being tight on the crank bearings inner races. There should be a similar gap between the crank lobes and the side wall of the inner crankcase and the crankshaft will not float from side to side, it will be held solidly in place!

They are stuffers and help fill the void in the crankcase thus giving greater velocity in the transfers and thus helping scavenging and the loading of the combustion chamber with fuel/oil vapour. You may lose some performance but it will run with no adverse consequences!

No, er indoors would be wearing my "bits" as earings:blushing: It was bad enough baking a newly painted 066 in the oven:blushing: