spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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From experience, Sainsburys Gel is the dogs - Sainsbury's - Please enable cookies or JavaScript Have used a few gels and this one doesn't clog multi blade razors and cleans off the razor easily unlike many! Best stuff by far and good value!
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Is this 5-7 pulls with the throttle open or partially open? What gauge was it measured with? It all makes a difference.
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I would expect £300 - 375 for the saw in good working order with a bar and chain. Just get the muffler bolts helicoiled. Not a big job!
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Had the fun of servicing an HT131 pole pruner a week or so ago. I was told that on full extension drive was being lost intermittently. So.....started stripping it down and what a job. Springs, sliders, bearings, bushes.....what a mare. Three of the strange slider bearings just fell apart, bits were stuck in the tube, a couple of loose circlips, all stripped and a bucket of bits. Ordered the parts, serviced the four stroke power-head and waited. The parts came in eventually, I am guessing not many people service these things. After a while examining the parts, the parts list and scratching my head, I put it together, stripped it, put it together, stripped it and eventually worked out how the unit goes together, how the sliders and springs fit together and how it all hangs together. Got a sense of achievement getting it all back together and working again - think it was pretty shagged and must have been interesting using it as it was with only two of the five bearings complete.
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These carbs have a slide with a tapered needle on it which slides up and down in the main jet, to cut down the fuel you lower the slide via the idle speed adjuster or via the hidden screw:sneaky2: That being said, it sounds like you have a setup issue and over-fuelling may be caused by a leaking needle valve so check this out by pressure checking the carb and make sure the gaskets and diaphragms of he carb are in the correct order. This may help - http://www.jonsered.com/ddoc/JONI/JONI2004_AAaa/JONI2004_AAaa_TBC230,D,S_.pdf
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I will have to blunt the nasty sharp bits on the chain when you roll your kit in for servicing:sneaky2: Get well soon, could have been worse but at least you survived in one piece!
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Here we go, at full tilt: - [ame] [/ame]
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Been porting again, this was a real pleasure as the saws were in stonking condition. A near new MS200 with very little use (2010) and a very nice 395XP which sounded rather good once done. Compression on the MS200 was circa 180 before my adjustments so that should go well and the 395 turned out nice.
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Bloody expensive at £1k!
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I have left that with the owner, it is his choice and he has all the info on this thread!
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If the engine is sealed and the compression is good then it is probably fuel related. Test the fuel line and give the carb another looking at. It sounds like the low speed fuel delivery isn't correct so look at this - new carb kit perhaps!
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Sounds like the needle valve isn't seating correctly, it is possible that the diaphragm has hardened and is holding the needle open all the time. I would pressure test the carb but a new carb kit will probably sort it!
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Turn them all the way in and then one turn out each screw. It should run on these settings.
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You can get pills or cream for that:lol: Yeah, not far off:thumbup:
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Nah, we have you as a 6'4" 25 stone guy dressed in cow hides and a helmet with horns on it and a penchant for boats which are long and have lots of oars:lol: Good luck with the timing as it is the most likely fix. If it is a real issue, you could take the flywheel off and retard the ignition with a customised flywheel key! It is possible that the decomp valve is a bit weak and pops out too soon before the engine has truly fired but think these issues have been mentioned before.
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I hope he winced:sneaky2:
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Yes, MS660s shouldn't be pulled over with a limp wrist, they need conviction and a bit of determination. Grit your teeth, pull like it is life or death and it will go! Refund.....Pah, you can't even raise the compression on this saw as the squish is already low......bloody wimp.....have you made sure he actually is a lad:sneaky2:
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Try a slightly larger gap, I would say 0.4 - 0.5mm, make sure it sparks and see if it helps. It did on one I had a similar issue with!
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If I was running a Husqvarna autotune machine, I would be running it on 40:1 synthetic oil. As far as the type, it needs to have the same spec or better than Husqvarna LS.
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Is the saw easy to turn over with the plug removed? Has the carb been set to one turn on the H&L screws? Has the carb been overhauled? Is the muffler free of blockage - had one once with a plug of mud rammed in the exhaust outlet! Check the fuel filter and the fuel line as well!
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I get damn upset when a bit of kit I have looked at starts misbehaving, I treat it personally and aim for 100% every time!
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You are fine in non autotune engines but as soon as you go autotune strato, you use much less fuel. All the bearings and friction surfaces need oil to keep them working so much less fuel through the engine means less oil to keep a more powerful saw working hence my theory on using a fatter synthetic mix.
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Damn, I had better start using "Just for Men"
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I would say that info from this site will get back to the factory and the people that matter then improvements will be made to the saws construction. Fortunately, despite some of the adverse comments, Husqvarna do make changes to their products on known faults.
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I have no experience on this model, more on chainsaws with heated handles BUT, the power comes from a magnet embedded around the flywheel (flywheel needed), this passes around a circular coil behind the flywheel (coil needed). There will be a wiring harness for the handles, a left and right handle or at least a heating element for both and a switch to turn them on and off. The parts would be relatively tricky to fit.
