spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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I would take the exhaust off and check the state of the piston via the exhaust port! The carb settings would be one turn out from fully in on each screw!
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Silencers and exhaust ports on slower revving two strokes often get blocked with oil and carbon. Always worth a check out on badly running trimmers and strimmers!
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Both ebayers are decent traders. When I have had issues with Tesgols parts, he has responded in a quick and professional manner and none of this disappearing in to the distance so stands by his products. I have only had Meteor and Episan products from Danikrop and don't know the manufacture of his piston. Up to you which way you go but can vouch for both sellers.....L&S Engineers also have an aftermarket piston as well as the OEM part for circa £60 - your choice!
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<p>Possibly a loose circlip or some random bit of metal in the bottom end. Hope you haven't used extra long exhaust bolts or punctured the cases by using the wrong bolts! </p>
<p>Possibly an expensive mistake Andrew is why I recommend doing what I am good at whilst you do what you are good at! Is the flywheel clouting the coil?</p>
<p>Steve</p>
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Ah, that's the good ol days where you got good aftercare as a customer and the service guys knew what they were doing:001_rolleyes:
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Oh dear, not again:001_rolleyes:
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Yup, used saws on meat before and find a mallet and chisel good on splitting chicken pieces and stuff like that. I think 180 dec C kills most of the bacteria:001_rolleyes:
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I had 500g of frozen mince and a wife that wanted 250g.....wood chisel and mallet......should have been a butcher:sneaky2:
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Damn, that mans fast and I'm no Ivory Madonna and their ain't no manna commin!
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No resin will hold it, helicoil is difficult in plastic so the oversized one is the way I would go.
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Watch you don't get it hung up when you return it.....if you suspect it is blocked, take it out by removing the clutch, drum and inner covers.
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Rooms are typically 8' tall, that's 16' so about 5 metres tops!
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Yeah, lets see how many screws fall out before the saw goes pop big style:lol:
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That spoils the fun, we could hang this out for days:lol:
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Don't hold back Andy, say what you see:lol:
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Yes, clean the saw more often than once every seven years:001_rolleyes: These machines are relatively easy to split their crankcases due to their main bearing design. Just remove ALL the bolts and it should separate with a few light taps!
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Probably the screw that mounts the air injection nozzle (plastic trumpet) to the crankcases on the right hand side of the flywheel!
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Non drying I think judging by the quality of this thread.....think paint drying may be more exciting:sneaky2:
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This is like watching paint dry:001_rolleyes:
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I use a Hydro 5 Wilkinson Sword, buy the blades in bulk on eBay and come in at under £2 per blade and can make them last around a month before they get too painful. I use a grape based shave oil (get 250ml off ebay for under £15) which helps the razor work and prevents rash. Sainsburys shave gel is the best one in my opinion - Sainsbury's - Please enable cookies or JavaScript It keeps the shaver from digging in, cuts back on rash and doesn't clog the razor like some plus it keeps the blades lubed up:blushing: Got a load of Real Shaving Company moisturiser from Poundland that works well and was only.........you've guessed it:001_rolleyes: I have found the Gillette gel to be poor compared to Sainsburys with King of Shaves stuff being pretty good but more expensive.
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I will let you off, three Hail Marys and you will have absolution:thumbup:
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Yup, most likely a plugged oil pump - just remove it and make sure the inlet and outlet union are both clear. It is unlikely to be the worm drive, only ever changed one on MS200/201s and that one was fried due to woodchip and bio oil contamination!
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395XP = the dogs nuts....very good saw , lots that can be done to get them singing on full chat but still a fine and strong performer!
