spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Just get a multi meter, put it on the "Ohm" range or "Diode test" buzzer and measure that the switch is conducting when actuated. sometimes a little crud gets in just above the female spade connector. If the switch is working, it may be a damaged wire but the wire is usually very reliable.
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Watch "World's First Laser Rust Remover" on YouTube
spudulike replied to Sussex Groundie's topic in Maintenance help
Nice bit of kit, will wait for when they are one of Aldi's Special Buys:thumbup: It will happen....may take 10 years or so! -
Not one of life's diplomats:001_rolleyes::lol:
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On saws, it is usually the alloy that wears and the larger tolerance stops oil being pumped. A stripped worm drive is probably one of the most common faults as is a plug of fine woodchip in the oil pump inlet!
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Not a problem, am sure I can breath a bit of fire in to its belly:thumbup:
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Looks like the outlet internal pipe to me. It is a tube with a support that is welded inside the muffler. You could cut the outlet shroud, fold it back and braze in a new pipe or just leave it as is, as long as all the debris is removed, it should be OK.
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Husqvarna used these sealed bearings on a number of machines, not the greatest of ideas as it gets expensive if a seal fails. The oil pump was a strange device and prone to get bent if adjusted badly. Not a great saw but you can get them going OK if careful. The coil was a bit weird to, two contacts with a close tolerance to the flywheel and another with a massive gap. Get it wrong and the thing sounded like a sack of.......
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Oh - don't use a MS200 for the log pile unless rear handled, your hands are too close together using it and the temptation to use one hand is too strong so only for competent users and climbers......unless you like hospital food! Rebuild it to a high level and it will be worth a lot of £££ to some!
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The OEM cylinders have fallen in price recently so worth looking in to. If price is an issue, I recommend Meteor kits and the rest are Chinese of mixed quality. Personally, these saws are to be used up the top of trees so the ability to start hot and cold in as few pulls as possible is of paramount performance and the difference of £50 in the rebuild value is bugger all compared to the cost of a couple of days lost work if this saw is to be a primary climbing saw and fails down to poor components. It is important to find out why the saw failed in the first place and a full carb check and rebuild plus a leak down test is well worth doing plus don't forget the chain break, it should snap on and off and not flap around!
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Blimey, he's posh:001_tongue:
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Or a pound of mince beef or a bottle of Beau jolly:001_rolleyes:
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Yeah, otherwise it could be a Jonsered or Homelite as it is red:001_rolleyes:
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That's a bit harsh, one mans junk is another mans gold!! Here is the Poulan but the OPs one is red so its a bloody CRAFTSMAN!!!!!!!!
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Got an old 80cc Husky on the shelf, I think it is a 280CD, no chain brake but has some balls!! PM me if interested! No bar or chain though!
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Firstly, make sure the tappets are gapped correctly, almost all the issues I see with these 4T engines are tappet related. If it isn't this then it could be lack of compression, fuel or coil/coil gap also the advance/retard mechanisms play up!
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Looks like a Craftsman to me - VINTAGE CHAINSAW COLLECTION: CRAFTSMAN-SEARS GROUP OF SAWS. You may find more about it on Mike Acres site!
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Generally they are after the food we feed birds and you feed your chickens. They are always after the easy option. I have seen a big run where a local farmer sets aside a corner of a field for sweetcorn and can see the cobs that the rats have dragged back to the burrow to eat. They like old tree stumps and compost heaps as well but don't like a few grams of .22 lead!!
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Was out in the garden and damn me if I didn't see a rat scarpering from the bird feeders. Got the air rifle out, sat there for 10 mins and out he came again.........splat, no more rat:thumbup:
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If the bar is 13" or under then yes, If it is more then no unless the saw is ported etc! Also depends on the size of wood typically cut and the type of cutting done!
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It sounds like the pump diaphragm isn't doing too much. It is worth making sure the fuel filter isn't blocked, it is unlikely if it has one of those typical Husqvarna white ones. Check the fuel line isn't holed or gone soft and gloopy as the diaphragm may be OK but may be pulling air rather than fuel. It may be worth taking the carb apart to see if there is any fuel in the pumping or metering section - if the fuel pipe is dry it is logical to think the carb will be dry. If the gaskets between the inlet manifold and cylinder or carb are missing, it will probably stop the impulses from the crankcase transmitting to the carb and pumping fuel!
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The MS200 is a great saw, I have refurbished sooooo many of these, like old friends. Got to find out all their little niggles now and how to sort them!
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see.....top fella:thumbup:
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Mmmm, you are right, glad he isn't running a repair business:001_rolleyes:
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If the plug is dry, it could be a dodgy fuel filter (possibly worth trying first), split fuel line, blocked carb gauze filter or the diaphragm has gone hard and isn't contacting the metering arm. I did one recently and the fuel filter was 99% blocked up. It let enough fuel through to fire and run for seconds and then pop and that was it. Took a fair while to find as fuel filters rarely block up like this! Other than that, dismantle it like you have said, take lots of photos with your phone as you go, especially the pipe positions and diaphragm positions and you will get there. As you take the carb apart, note where there is no fuel and it will guide you to where the problem may be!
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It is all very simple, there is a coil pack mounted behind the flywheel. the flywheel has a ring magnet embedded on to the back of it. Once the flywheel spins, the magnet spins round the coil and produces a bit of a voltage. You have two resistive heaters mounted in series with a switch between the voltage, the heaters and earth. Once the switch is thrown, you get toasty hands. It is possible the switch has got a bit of shyte in it increasing its normal nominal resistance, it is possible one of the heaters has got a high resistance but I am not sure if there is a spec for them or if you just have to compare to a good set. Probably best to check the switch, check the connectors and see where that leads to.
