spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Nice seeing an employer investing in staff rather than shafting them like most others! It is sometimes the easy simple things like a cheap family holiday that mean the most!
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Never knew Rip Van Wincle worked for Northern Arb
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The 261 having more power can't be the issue as the bearing is locked once the clutch engages over circa 3,500rpm. The Stihl stance on this is typical German manufacturing and I worked for one for over 30 years so know all about that one! They never admitted the early MS201s were utter shyte but there you go - it WAS the way you were using them....all that wood and oil, what do you expect I have never got to the bottom of the 261 issue, something must be wrong as I have never seen anything as bad before and have multiple reports from trainers basically telling their students that their chainsaw is unsafe and unfit for them on their course.....says a lot!!! This isn't me knocking Stihl in favour of other manufacturers but is a comment on finding issues with certain saws showing wear, often terminal in what I would consider relatively new machines!
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The other thing that can help is these network extenders. You basically plug your router in to one, it plugs in to the mains and you turn your mains power lines in to a WiFi network - that is what I was suggesting with the TP Link and Devolo ones - simple and effective.
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It is a Billion 7800DX, they are pricy but got an eBay steal. The fancy thing about this one is you can tweak the SNR ratio of the signal so the ISP doesn't have the last say on your signal with their DLM (Dynamic Line Management) software. With most ISPs, this boosts marginal signals but TalkTalk introduced new DLM software a year ago that cocked up my setup but that is history! That is what I have and it has been a decent bit of kit.
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Reckon the 241 is probably the best of the bunch and will be a bit more punchier than the MS181etc, 346XPs are fab but scarce for good ones now. I guess a fair bit hinges on how much firewood you cut and how much you will miss the punch of the 028 but think it is worth spending a bit more and not regretting it after a few hours cutting. The easy starts and these "Simple" chain adjusters are a but weekend warrior IMO, they exacerbate the possibility of failure IMO and the chain adjusters can be a sod to rebuild if they come apart!
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A better bet is to fill the bore with paper towel through the exhaust port, push the towl away through the plug hole and then tap with grease on the tap. Pull the towel out slowly, wind the piston up over the transfers and use an air line to blast the crap out of the exhaust port using the shape of the combustion chamber. done a few like it if I can but you have to be precise and have a knowledge of the ports.
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I think Steve probably has it. Sometimes the phone just can't decide whether to get the internet via the mobile signal or Wi Fi so doesn't work. Try upping your Wi Fi signal with Devolo or TP link extenders - that should help or get a better router that pushes out a stronger signal - mine works a good 40 yards away!
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Not to fit one of these saws. All the previous Stihls needle bearings last forever....I think it is their way of selling lots of sprocket kits
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I think I would be foraging around for firewood at those prices......did the guy in the campsite wear a tricorn hat, brandish muskets and ride a horse called "Black Bess".
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Mmm, nice bit of helicoil left sticking out of that hole. Guess the "other guy" was far cheaper, promised the world and produced......the stuff the soil pipe takes away! You pays your money and ...............!!!
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No, the bearing is just shorter than the inner bore of the clutch drum by around 1.5mm - it can't help can it! Why have I never changed a clutch bearing on an MS200.....unless some twat has taken it out and then given me the saw to service
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Sounds like the carb needs a full and proper rebuild - I am not just talking a few new rubber bits either! If the impulse had come off then the idle would be very fast and not good. The breather - if it has the dual fuel/breather fuel pipe, can be removed and a piece of pipe put on it and either pressure checked or just suck on it as the bishop said to the actress....but we digress Some depends on if the saws idle went loopy and someone has messed with the carb to accommodate it or if the saw just started bogging. Worth checking the throttle and switch control shaft as if they are damaged, there will be little or no fast idle.
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I have a theory that the bearing should be 1.5mm longer - just my thoughts
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Piston ring in upside down?
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It isn't using the choke to kill the engine that does the damage but the fact the bolts come loose and when the kill switch stops working, guys just carry on using it but use the choke as a kill switch!
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It hasn't sucked in the mesh from the air filter or that black sponge thing in the air filter?
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I fix lots of saws and generally have to drain them to ship and I have noticed fine black particles in some saws tanks - a bit like carbon powder. Not linked to Aspen but still strange stuff and not got a bearing on what it is. Possibly rubber particles from the fuel hose abrading on the filter and fuel tank. I also use a funnel with a very fine mesh in it - it purges the fuel tank of fine shyte when draining it! Doesn't help with the Aspen query though!
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Looks like aluminium particles but strange they are all over the crown and not just around the squish area that is where it usually happens. There is little in the inlet area that would cause it, the muffler is steel and would stop the piston dead so would suspect the piston breaking down or someone using extra long bolts has punched a hole in the crankcase and that is alloy crankcase fragments.
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What usually happens is they come in for porting and I check these two mounts as part of the service.....unlike that Adam fella you know - that is his saw in the pic.......unfortunately well beyond the long bolt and nut trick!
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How about taking off that wibbly wobbly cover behind the clutch, tighten the upper and lower engine mount bolts so they don't come loose and the whole engine flaps to and fro on one engine mount at the rear of the saw and wearing away the front ones to the point you have to remove the engine and replace half the lower crankcase which is a bastard of a job as the engine is tiny! You did ask - OK to use the choke until it can be investigated but isn't a wise long term solution as you well know
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And me, much easier and quicker IMO!
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The weak points are the engine mounts but made worse as the owners use the choke lever to stop the saw. The bolts come loose, the kill switch not working is the first sign of an issue but most arb guys are clever and use the choke lever to stop the saw until the clutch is flapping in the breeze and the lower crank case needs rebuilding Done a few interesting mods to sort this issue on various levels of wear!
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Nope, just the statement from the bank abbreviating the customer title - just the way it rolls, makes me laugh....and the customers. Got a carb on the way, the saw had gone to a few others before it came to me in frustration and had a recent new carb. Seemed not too bad but was a bit flubby in the cut and fortunately, I validate as much as I can before purchasing expensive parts.
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Run it flat out and hard but for short periods (heat is a killer) and DO NOT sit it on idle for long periods. The saws bore, rings and piston have rough surfaces and you have a short window where they can bed together to create a decent fit and this is best done early in its life and is done by running it flat out but avoid long big cuts where excessive heat will build up.
