spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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I found the tachs where you have to wrap the wires round the HT lead to be a PITA. especially on MS200s as the side cover has to be removed! OK for the occasional user but not for commercial use.
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Not being funny but is this in the right section The description of the employees skill set is a bit light on substance!
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You need parts 537 01 72-01 and 503 92 27-01 for the dogs only or part 589 77 21-01 if you want the dogs and roller chain catcher kit. Don't know if they are available in the UK or not but guess you could import them.
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WTF
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I always thought you lot were a bit dodgy but then I saw "Repair Person" was on the list and I do get murderous thoughts when cleaning the shyte off some of your "less clean" saws.......you have been warned - the veggie garden needs some compost
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Been porting a customers MS460 today.......the transfers are in the side of the cylinder wall and not in the base so not sure how they are impinged by the base gasket, should have realised when it first came up!
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I usually replace them once the sprocket lobe has indentations in the top. Most don't replace them until they are totally gone but if they are in for a service, that is what they get!
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It worries me that a Stihl agent has no idea on this part but seems like it is "Par for the Course" - https://www.lsengineers.co.uk/solenoid-valve-for-stihl-fs460-0000-120-5110.html
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It depends on the saw but have done in the past.
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Looks like Husqvarna need to train their agents a little better!
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0.5mm is the documented minimum and yes, it will increase the torque on this sort of engine at these revs.
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The shoes look OK but the sprocket looks shagged to me!
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You can delete the gasket but the cylinder will need a bot of work on it to do it otherwise I think you end up with 0.3mm squish which is just too low to be safe. It is one saw that Stihl are pretty keen on clearances.
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Can't be bothered, thinking about retiring
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I thought these gaskets were shim steel coated with rubber so are not able to be trimmed. If it is gasket paper then trim away otherwise the gasket will affect the flow up the transfer cavity.
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Worth pulling the springs off the shoes to see if the actual shoe is that worn. The sprocket needs to be checked for wear, the chain brake mechanism needs cleaning, the brake guard shouldn't wobble too and forth, it should be SPRUNG using a flat spring which commonly breaks through poor cleaning. The chain catchers are often missing on these saws and also check and clean the recoil cover and rope. I do much more than this on my rebuilds but these are the relatively simple things to do.
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Just measured my vice and it is a smidge over 1m, I am 6'2" and made my bench relatively high and it has never caused me back pain and know a lower one in height would. Kitchen worktops make a good workbench, pretty solid and resilient. I have placed magnetic tool holders round mine and are useful for tools, bars, chains and stop some parts rolling off the top. I didn't bother with chairs, standing up is good for you and shifting two stone is testimony to that!
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Done three now but no vids as I live in a village where they have difficulty sharing my enthusiasm for cutting wood for the fire I believe all are happy with their kit......often it is just the lack of any follow up that proves it but have heard some positive comments from the 088 owner who is relatively local.
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That is what Kim Jong Un said when he pressed the button.....I am worried, bet Steve likes a good cheese as well
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Just make sure that the house and environment where they are is going to be where they want to be for the next 12-15 years at least as you don't want to do the work only for them to want to move or having to move down to changing circumstances in health or family/friends moving. Work out the total costs of the improvements and then work out how long they need to stay put to break even and then make a gain on the work you do - make sure you include any servicing/maintenance costs of having the work done. Don't forget that any costs incurred could have been invested and produce an income that may have given the ability to pay towards their utility bills.
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The only real comparison is to cut the same wood with the same bar and chain with the same person using the same saw before and after porting. All these factors make a difference as you can port a new saw with good as new compression or one that has seen better days plus all the factors i mention earlier can make a difference. Nice idea though and always interesting to see what people are running and who has done the work etc.
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Good thing I made that 660 a tad louder so you know when it is running, for you oldies it is a blessing
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New pistol grips-finishing advice.
spudulike replied to felixthelogchopper's topic in Woodcraft Forum
I used this stuff on my TX200 and S300 - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Birchwood-Casey-Tru-Stock-Finish/dp/B01LZG42G0 They do a number of products to darken wood and to seal up porous wood etc. One stock was beech and the other walnut, the walnut stock needed oiling and then light sanding to fill in the porous grain but turned out very nice! It is easy to apply, you just rub it in with a finger tip and will eventually build up to high gloss which can be lightly abraded with very fine wire wool if you want a more satin finish or just don't apply too many coats! -
That graph pretty much says it all and is a curve from a relatively modern coil/saw. Earlier than that, the coil had a fixed ignition advance, no "soft" ignition start like on most modern machines so the manufacturer set them to around 27 degrees as a 30 - 34 degree advance would probably break bones on start up! Two strokes need an ignition that advances rapidly and then falls off mid to high revs unlike a four stroke that advances more and more through the rev range! Anyway - the saw is set to just over 30 degrees which is slightly more than a standard 660 - been some time since I did it but that is where I believe it ended up!
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Not my favourite saw to work on for the reasons you have found!
