spudulike

And the other suggestions??

More likely to need someone that understands that the issues on normal carb saws can actually happen on AT saws and that the AT diagnostic software isn't some sort of silver bullet that will fix a saw with a lap top. You will probably just find the plug is shot, the carb gauze strainer is full of shyte, the air filter is dirty or the pump gasket is perforated....just saying!!!!

Sometimes the needle chrome plating starts bubbling and this makes their closure intermittent. You can sometimes get the rubber on the end of the needle having a little ridge allowing it to leak.....see how it goes and you can use a pressure gauge & pump or pop off tester to see if the needle valve is working OK.

Not a problem, glad to help out again.

No, it is too an extreme mod just to do something like that. When the saw came out, the Arboristsite guys were trying to work it out and think they eventually came to the conclusion that it cleaned the saw making it more environmentally friendly. They also stated that if they manufactured an extremely clean saw, it gave them extra EPA points so they could make a less clean one and the MS461 was one of those. How true....no idea! The flange would come in to action on near the bottom of the downward stroke, the carb has no fresh air strato system so I can only think it is to reduce the amount or fuel air reaching the transfer ports thus making the saw more fuel efficient as all the scavenging would have already happened by then - I guess they fine tuned it with the flange rather than changing the size of the piston windows and transfer port sizes which would be more difficult, costly and time consuming. That is my take on it for all it is worth!

Just to close this one off, the sheath had sheared in two and had then chafed the cable. A new cable and a bit of non related TLC got it going nicely. The sheath is steel and plastic, the metal won't change shape with oiling!

It is a solid alloy of some sort. My thinking is it is added for cleaning up the emissions but wasn't as effective as the strato type saws as the 462 came out to replace it. Some sort of bridge between the 460 and the 462 that gave Stihl a bit of time to develop the later machine.

Gave back the lightly used 2012 MS261 to the owner, explained that the crank hardened coating was shot, showed him the pitting on the shaft with a magnifying glass and then measured the shaft diameter above the circlip, below it and then near the actual clutch showing a nominal 10mm above the circlip and 9.65mm near the clutch - 0.35mm under nominal is well buggered and uneconomical to repair.

On a new saw, full compression won't be there until the cylinder and piston have bedded in. Decomps are actually graded by the size hole in them, the smaller the hole, the less the decomp effect. A hot saw will pull over easier than a cold one and one that has sat a while and has a nice coating of oil over the bore, left after the fuel has evaporated, will need a decomp valve plus manufacturers fit them to protect the starting gear as well as making the saw easier to pull over. You need a decomp on some saws but on many, it is best not to bother.

The picture doesn't show it but the centre section of the flange goes in to the underside of the piston around an inch.

No and definitely NO, it is shaped to go in to the underside of the piston and would have zero bracing effect from its design. It is to do with making the saw a little cleaner and has nothing to do with the strength of the cases.

Lightly hone with new rings, it will help them bed in.

Probably just flooded, pull the plug, turn upside down, pull hard a few times, let it dry out overnight, refit the plug and try again but no more than 5 pulls on full choke and make sure the fast idle is engaged.

Ah, Nitrous Oxide, back to the drag racing days, thought about that one but is just one of those projects waiting for a rainy day! That saw also has a nice erection......Oh er

Got two, nothing to do with Arbwork, one is a Whites IDX Classic (American) and I have...Modified it....yup, you can do it...call it porting... and the CScope CS4PI which is a completely different beast. The Whites one will discriminate but is pretty poor on wet sand, the PI ones are great on wet sand with very good depth but have no discrimination. The CS4PI does have good depth and isn't messed up with mineral content in the soil etc - both will detect small steel items to a good depth! The Garrett hand held is really for bouncers finding knifes!

Yes...time traveller, should have been 2019...not tried the ignition on the Echo, it would need a before and after timing on a set piece of timber.

I was discussing this with a customer and comparing the Echo response to the melting side cover issue to the Stihl MS261 issue.....quite a different approach, a bit like Toyota being totally transparent with their throttle issues on their cars....seems to be the Japanese way and for one, I appreciate that sort of behaviour!

I believe so, March31st 2018, the time goes forward by 1 hr .......cant wait

Huh....I believe your post is asking what I have done the most of on a 150....full port and muffler mod but those ports are tiny!!! I have often thought it would be nice to do a full pop up piston and go mad on one but not got the time for it!

If you get some "work" done on the 150, it starts getting very interesting! I have started recommending running a MS200 and MS150 instead of running two MS200Ts or similar.

I have an issue with this "bad batch" thing. I have fitted new splined drums on a few MS261s with new bearings where the crank was serviceable and they have been knocked out within 6 months. I really don't get this "bad batch" thing unless they had a bad batch that lasted around four years!!!!

Yup, a coarse grub screw pushes in to the end and the tube is then fed through the hole in the plastic wall just behind it in your pic.

That is some erection Wes, the length, the girth, the ..........erectness Seems almost pleased to see you!

I did say......

Yup, Echos are funny, they seem to always need the muffler modded and a bit of a carb tune and bingo...different saw. I guess it is because the Japanese seem to use CATs rather than strato type technology. People ask me what they are like and I always say, they seem a bit lightly made but seem relatively strong and typically.....well....JAPANESE!