spudulike

I don't think I have ever seen a blue limited coil on a 395XP, they are usually black and unlimited and some of the machines I have seen in have been under a year old so that's a bit strange. It should be part number 503 63 98 01 and your part number makes no sense. The SEM bit makes more sense and shows an ignition ramp up of 8 degrees from idle on this webpage - Small engine ignition systems Properties - SEM AB - MAFIADOC.COM MAFIADOC.COM Suitable for engines that require a flat ignition curve. Ignition voltage. Using effective electronics, a maximum ignit...

With a saw of this value, I know what I would do and that is using the stop method. With the MS150s I use a very specific method for stopping the piston that has worked on a few that have sheared their keys as yours has and it gives a very precise result rather than guessing as we are discussing whether the advance is 23 or 30 degrees. The coil may also be smart with different rpm/advance ramps so difficult to gauge. I cant tell when the next 395XP will roll in, they are usually fairly common but having said that....... What we need is a 395XP owner with a little engineering experience and a camera!

OK, if it is a RTVS jointing compound, it should be OK.

I think you are expecting the unlikely if you think someone will know the ignition timing of the 395 so you can dial yours in exactly with a strobe and think it would test even the guys at Husqvarna. Much depends on the accuracy of your gauge and am guessing you are using a timing wheel to graduate this and a strobe to measure against it. My Red Eye ended up at around 30 degrees from a Stihl spec of 27.5 - 32 degrees so think your 19 degrees will ebb away power as I reckon it is a bit conservative. Probably better that someone with a 395 can lock the piston and photograph the flywheel or wait until perhaps I get another one in. Shame as I have just done one over the Christmas break. I have done a few MS150s like this that have sheared their key and got the timing bang on and is a reliable method. 19 degrees won't bugger the machine up, if you take it too far, the machine will rumble in a most disconcerting way - my saw did and made a noise that spoke to me - it said, "you open the throttle, I will grenade"

Is that Monty Don, the Gardeners World fella? Not sure he would know anything about ignition timing

The clam should use a flexible liquid gasket and not JB epoxy weld, it may do the job for a while but isn't the correct material.

Mmmm, good luck getting anyone in the UK answering this one with any knowledge or experience as it is a bit specialized and probably beyond most but having set the timing on a 066 red eye fitted with a much later coil and sorting a few dodgy MS150 flywheels in my time............... I would take another 395 unmodified, put a spacer between the piston and the squish band (through the plug hole makes sense), turn the flywheel in one specific direction and work out where a chosen flywheel fin lines up with a fixed point - perhaps part of the coil. If you then compare this to your machine, you can see how far from standard you are and how much advance you have as 1mm on the edge of the flywheel (of this size) equates to one degree. I usually run 4-6 degrees advance on from standard on my standard build - much easier if the key is in place but other than sodding around with strobe timing lights as I did on my red eye 066 (circa 22-23 degrees at idle), this method is much easier and is reliable. Most modern saws do have some advance and retard curve as we all know....two strokes like low advance at idle, rapidly rising to 22-27 at mid revs then rapidly falling off when flat out otherwise, big bangs which is nothing like four strokes which advance throughout their rev range. For those who haven't a clue what we are talking about.....go back to X factor, dancing on ice or some other inane TV prog!!!

The past year should have been kind to anyone with a pension plan investing in equity. No changes to pensions here but took life easier last year and will do the same for the next few years. Pensions are best planned at 20 years and not 45 years - treat it like growing an Oak tree, plant the acorn at 1 year and you end up with a decent tree later in life, leave it until 45 and you will get......a small shrub!

You can usually tell mid/bad air leaks as the machine will stay running even with the idle screw right out, that and the saw holding on to revs when the throttle is snapped shut. Probably not an air leak but if a novice has been rebuilding the saw, who knows. Were the seals inserted properly, the clam sealed with correct liquid gasket, was the coil to flywheel set correctly, was the inlet manifold and all its support rings assembled correctly? Was the piston taken off, was it put back the correct way round - seen THAT before! Was the carb rebuilt correctly, gaskets in the correct orientation, metering arm height correct? Has the carb been set correctly, compression...who knows etc etc! Spark plug - seen these give some weird results before, HT lead.....checked for continuity, need I go on!!! Perhaps one of our members is local and can help, where in the country are you?

No......... keep it going, we could make 2021 with this one and just giving it to someone who can fix it spoils all the fun and it is saving money.....unless you work out the time spent at your normal hourly work rate and........anyway, it is a 211, it would be difficult to keep it an economical repair especially as it has been completely apart by someone who hasn't done this sort of work before...never good! The new analysis/info could mean anything but compression and piston condition would be my first call as it usually is when I get a machine in. anything 150psi+ would be OK, 170psi better.

Shaking like a Polaroid picture!

Neighbourly disputes are nearly always expensive with the only winners being the solicitors. Talking it over reasonably is usually the best way forward but some people are utter twats and fail to see logic, common sense, fair play etc .....just how life is! Legally, you can cut off anything that overhangs the boundary including the roots but if the trees/shrubs die or become dangerous, you will be liable to the owners costs of any damage if they fall down or die. I have had tree issues in the past and moved house to get away from the fella we called "The Bell End"!

Got to leave it on the grass otherwise it would be dancing around in circles! Are those the neighbours who are stuffing cheese in to their ears

The reg is correct for a 1.4 Audi A2, perhaps you turned away a good customer.....not!

Anything is better than nothing. I am running a cheapo one but it has been going for well over a year so no complaints for £45! I would go for a brushless motor and spend £100 or under as if it fails, it won't stop your work. My brushed motor one lasted a year and that was it, this brushless oiled motor is working better and has lasted longer being used every day.

TX200 = £480 or cheaper if secondhand Impact Mk11 - £1700 new Just depends on how much you use a bit of kit, my Air Arms S300 was £100, £50 for an aftermarket magazine, Big Chinese Tele - £40, Mounts £20, pump £60 secondhand, £20 silencer and bobs your uncle, PCP on a budget. The OP was after a BSA meteor and you can pick those up for £50-80.

I don't sell modified bits but have done MMs on mufflers supplied to me in the past. Just PM me and will pull a price together although it is a sod of a job. Looks like Wes uncurled the join on his, I found it easier to cut and braze although either takes quite a time so won't come cheap.

Wes is pretty much there, the gubbins inside the muffler really needs to be removed and does make a difference to the power of the saw, ported or just MMed. I cut the muffler in half and then remove the baffles and then braze it back together with a larger outlet either ground or a let in pipe. I tend to do conservative muffler mods (Gay as Wes calls them) where they give the desired end result without waking the dead in the next country!! Much of the work I do goes to work on domestic and commercial companies working in towns and cities where excessive noise isn't welcomed. The Forestry guys really don't give a damn as trees don't complain so anything goes but avoid front exiting ports especially directly opposite the exhaust port!

You do realise that you are going to pile on a shed load of weight when you get behind a desk to do your work! I lost 2 stone when I did the opposite from sitting at a desk to standing up all day. It really shows what a desk job does for you! Better take up serious cycling, running or walking if you aren't already.

Yup, it does sound like it has a big air leak. Possibly seals, impulse line if of rubber tube construction, cylinder gasket failed etc. Best to pressure and vac check it otherwise you may get away with it by changing the seals but would get it checked.

If there is no baffle in the muffler it will be stupidly loud and only suitable if you are using in in the middle of nowhere using earplugs AND ear defenders! It goes against one of my major muffler mod rules and is bourn out by a customer in Ireland who is now partially deaf using something similar imported from the US before I did him a proper useable MM which he is happy with!

Just work out what you may like to clean in it and double up on the size. 2-3l should be ample if just doing a carb or two. I can't say I use mine much and only resort to it if the carb has been cleaned with spray cleaners, has been refurbished and still has running issues. To use it on every rebuild would be uneconomical and a PITA. They won't clean bio oil off cylinders or anything like that but are decent at getting crud and resins off carbs etc. Keep your fingers out of them though - I have heard it can damage the structure of your bones etc. Ripped this off one advert, sounds awful if true - The article recounts the story of a seaman who put his feet in an ultrasonic cleaner for a few minutes, said that it felt ‘good and relaxing’, pulled his feet out, stood up and applied full bodily weight only to shatter all the bones in feet. While we don’t have any independent verification of this story we still highlight it as it has a high probability of being true. Let us reiterate: Never run an ultrasonic cleaner with living organs in it.

BTW, when ADW talks of a "Large Compression Spring", he basically means that if you prize it out, it will explode out of the cover like one of those Aliens out of John Hurt in the film Aliens. Best cover in rag before prizing and only remove it if you need to as it will be a fecker to return in to whence it came from....be warned!

Looks to me to be ready for the Red Bull Soap Box Challenge!

Nope, ceased production in the late 80s! I think the OP is probably reminiscing about childhood - makes him mid 50s I reckon!