spudulike

Mmmm, just like that 380 I did....... use a bit of liquid gasket around that O ring - the seal will have probably gone hard as well! The joys of old machines!

Probably the clutch drum and nothing much else. There will typically be 5-6 of them, two at the front of the saw and four around the crank area. They should all be pretty tight but they may have come loose and is relatively easy to find out. If you look around the area, you may be able to get a ball end allen key in to the screws to test them without removing too much but typically the drum and possibly the oil pump will need to come off! Remember the left hand thread on the clutch - clockwise to remove!

266 - 1981-1990 in case anyone is interested - that's Rick Astley and Kylie territory!

I have just done a CD380 - yup it breaks my "owners of vintage machines should know how to fix them" rule but fixing it came with a hefty bill - well hefty in terms of the value of the machine but the owner was a bit attached to it! This machine had a BIG air leak and after sealing the PTO side seal and auxiliary seal, it still leaked badly and eventually found the leak was between the cases due to loose screws (rare) - pretty much all the screws were loose. I cranked them all down and it sealed 100% - on a more valuable saw I may have done a full strip but on a 40 year old saw.........! The saw worked out just fine, big bill but it is a big saw in good order now! Anyway - CHECK THE CRANKCASE SCREWS, crank them all down and hopefully, they will be loose and on tightening, you may be lucky and get a good seal and the gasket will be stuck to the jointing face and not sucked in to the crank case or oil tank cavity.

Excellent!!!

Just go to L&S with the correct machine type and if not in stock, they will get it in. If you open an account, they have online parts diagrams and you can phone to get a rough ETA on the part if not in stock. They mainly do OEM kit and a small bit of aftermarket.

2004 and 2150 look pretty similar to me with my colour matching printers eye!

Better than lobbing it in the nearest skip, nice job. I have found this to be a close match and pretty tough - PlastiKote Super Gloss Orange 400ml 1117 for sale online | eBay WWW.EBAY.CO.UK Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for PlastiKote Super Gloss Orange 400ml 1117 at the best online prices at eBay! Free delivery for many products!

I remember Frank Skinner waxing lyrically about the Paddington Bear film when he took his son to see it so watched the second one last Christmas and the first one a few months ago. I have to say they are fine films, very funny, great humour, great casts and really worth watching and that is from someone whose fave films are Mad Max, Italian Job and Aliens! So.....DONT MISS IT!!!

Probably a MS181?

If a saw will idle OK but as soon as you try to give it revs, the engine dies, there is probably an issue with delivering fuel on the high speed circuit. Issues may be fuel line split, fuel filter, dirt in the carb gauze strainer, H screw not turned out enough, blocked fuel tank breather, stuck check valve, perforated pump diaphragm. Start with the gauze strainer and then move to the less likely options.

It is an XTorq so not so many options available!?

Flooding will be caused by trying to pull the engine over too many times on full choke or if it is doing it by itself without trying to start it, it will be the needle valve. I think those Clarke gauges are for cars and unsuitable for small engines.

120psi sounds a bit off to me, 150+ is more like it. What gauge are you using and what does a good saw measure with it? Carbs flooding would be due to a weak needle valve spring, a poorly adjusted metering arm or a dodgy metering diaphragm.

Yup, but depends on what you call old!

Always a great feeling getting an old banger going: - VID_20200422_165510095.mp4

Did he say nipple?

Always tackle nests at dusk as the wasps are knackered and sleepy by then. I have found the white powder wasp killer pretty good. Wrap up well when doing it, you can fabricate a puffer with a jar, line in, line out and a compressor. You can then use a long bit of conduit pipe or similar to keep away.

It should have a push in fibre type breather, they let the tank breath but let very little fuel out....normally! Are you sure it isn't coming from around the fuel line?

Strange - did you change the gauze strainer as it sounds like you have fuel starvation. Did you reset the height of the metering arm when you changed it? Try disconnecting the kill wire from the coil and retest, it is possibly an HT or kill wire issue but it sounds more like a carb issue to me - possibly a stuck shut check valve and will need a good clean in an ultrasonic cleaner with the H&L screw removed. Try another carb?

MS201.....Mtronic or normal carb? Will it idle steadily or unevenly? Can you get the revs up by blipping, feathering the throttle?

Possibly a 444 but ADW will come along shortly waxing lyrically about what it is and all its foibles!!!

The decomp valve knocks off the compression to make it easier to turn over but also can cause starting issues if the saw isn't pulled over hard enough. Personally, I don't tend to use the decomp valve unless the saw is something like a MS660 or 395XP or larger. I do test saws using the decomp when I have worked on them to ensure they start freely using the valve. If you can pull the saw over with the valve out, try starting it without it to see if it helps - When cold, use choke, pull it over till it coughs, push the choke lever up one notch (fast idle) and then pull it over (1-3 pulls) until it starts. If the saw is warm/hot, put it on full choke and then push it up to fast idle and THEN try to start it, never use full choke on a hot saw unless it is an Autotune model and even then I try to start using no choke.

I have a cheap Silverline one, the difference is I have a speed control fitted to it so you can slow the wheel right down so the cutter doesn't over heat and this can be further reduced by dabbing the wheel on the chain. It isn't rocket science, friction causes heat so lower the friction by short contact and less speed.

The Schrader valve must have a very low opening pressure. Just putting in any old tyre valve won't work. Snapon white valves work.