Breezeblock
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Everything posted by Breezeblock
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you might find theres a l type valve in the return line to the tank/valve chest a hammer needs minimum back pressure to run at its best so they usually fit a diverter valve on the return so it passes through this then the filter on route to the tank -
I haven't been on the forum for a while now but have now made a reappearance because we've decided to wrap up the business as of next Saturday my business partner is moving to lands far away from where we are now and to be honest I am absolutely buggered and glad to be stopping the business sad to see him go but life moves on now I am going to concentrate on plant repairs/engineering which was always my main line of work having left my full time job last year my new business is fully operational with a good selection of customers from in a way I am gutted to see it all come to an end but in others the physical strain of climbing dragging brash has knocked the fun out of it so I think its a good time to bow out
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fluid level is important but not critical as long as theres sufficient to stop the pump from cavitating your friend is talking bollocks if theres no leaks where will the oil go I don't think its that warm that the oil will evaporate try swapping the solenoids around to see if it transfers the problem to another service
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Best ways to separate diesel from water?
Breezeblock replied to Woodworks's topic in Maintenance help
I would run it through the funnel thing they work very well and then fill up your machines with a simple pump going through a water separating fuel filter to give it a really good clean -
if theres bubbles in the tank I would be looking at the suction side of the pump - tank connection
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have you left the fuel turned on and the cylinder could possibly have filled up with raw fuel
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now sitting at £106 on fleabay somebodys getting a bargain
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loooooooser
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am still winning
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can somebody else stick a silly bid on it as well so we can have a bidding war
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I've just bid £5000 on it seemingly arbtalkers don't know a real 395 xp
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try the final drive centre at £1400 I think you have got off lightly I've done 3 diffs in December at 8k each
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What's the longest you've spent throwing a throw bag?
Breezeblock replied to billpierce's topic in Climbers talk
we built an air powered cannon to get round this it works fab the only issues with it are if theres dead branches it does knock them off -
anyone know there stuff with hydraulics and hiabs
Breezeblock replied to mitchel's topic in General chat
does it come with a hydraulic tank and hoses etc if it doesn't the power pack at the bottom of your list will be your best bet as it will contain its own relief valve it will be a neater setup but a bit heavier -
+1 for r tech welding had my ac dc tig for 3 months now over the moon with it
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I would run it until the death then get it fixed if they are guilty of breaking in 2 do some reinforcing of the chassis our chipper must be 12-13 years old done countless hours had a few bearings mainshaft remachined about 2 times the engines is a Kubota d1105 so pretty bombproof I think you should keep your money in the bank learn a bit more about fixing it or ask people who know theres a vast amount of knowledge on arbtalk to draw from
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sikaflex or tiger seal
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I never liked the idea of the worm setup if you pick up something thats off balance it can't lift a relief valve to stop overloads
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mth in falkirk I've had countless starers and alternators from them over the years
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yep that should do the trick I would be tempted to try and get a 3/4 valve of the same style as the least restriction the better when it comes to post knockers even though its reduced to 3/8 you will need to find a way to hold the aux hydraulics on for it to work whether its jam a brush under the pedal or rig a switch.For this to work at its best you would benefit from fitting a 2 way valve on the return so the oil goes straight to the tank return filter missing out the valve block
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send me a link to the valve that your thinking off
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you need a valve which is open centre the aux hydraulics will be under load all the time if you don't go for a single acting valve if you don't when you push the opposite way to drop the weight you will be putting power to a dead end and opening up the valve to drop the weight
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I wouldn't worry about takeuchis reliability I look after a couple of them that are out to a utilities company and you never do anything to them I am sure that if a few utilities bongos can break them an owner operator definitely won't have issues
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if it was a bigger digger I would say a ripper as its a 5 ton m/c get a pecker for it
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don't waste your time trying to glue it we have found that for a temp repair you are better putting a patch over the pinhole if you gouge and fill it up it distorts the tube and can cause the piston to pick up
