doobin

Bonnet scoop on most Jap 4WDs is functional, it goes to the intercooler.

You need an alarm that calls you.

Wouldn't fancy dicking around with 60" timber on steep banks for a bit of firewood money. What's your plan for catching the rings at the bottom, assuming they don't take you out on the way down? FWIW, any plan involving letting it roll down to begin with will be a tricky one to justify to your insurance company. It's not just the big chainsaw you need, it's the big handling equipment and big splitter too.

James, you sound green (pun intended) First off, I don't reckon you've got 100t of wood. Small diameter stuff, particularly if twisty, will look a lot but weigh F-all. Given the wildly optomistic amounts you hope to get on trailers (I've never seen an 18t capacity bale trailer even), it's clear that you need to gain more experience working with timber. Secondly, get it into your head right now that every time you touch that wood it's money down the drain, however much 'fun' it might be to begin with. I'll tell you now that if you insist on taking it back to the yard to process, you won't make a bean in real profit. Do it in the woods. What machinery have you got? List it for us and we can assist. The main consideration is what type of handling system were you planning on using at the yard? Bulk bags or loose? And just in case you think I'm coming across as a know it all asshole, here's a tip which will mean you can actually make money. 75% of your logs won't need to be split, being hazel coppice. Invest in something to cut them quickly, ideally straight into a bag. A Portek type chainsaw bench is very cheap and quick but not the safest. An engine driven chop saw is probably best, if you can stretch to it. Some even have a little screw splitter on the side. When you cut your non-split logs, do them at 7-8" and market them for log burners, but bear in mind that there is probably an extra 10% of wood in there compared to 10-12" logs. Good luck mate, you'll need it.

Can't believe you even needed to ask.

Your client could do more than offset some of the cost with 100 acres. He could get paid for the trees- that's how forestry works. It will depend entirely upon the age, state of the woods and the FC license that can be obtained as to what it's worth to a forestry contractor.

Lean back towards air for a moment. You'd have a lot of change (£250 at least!) for nails from an air framing nailer, small compressor and hose. Plus the compressor is a useful tool in it's own right. Once you have your air framing nailer then a little air brad nailer/stapler for doing the closeboard panels is only £35. You can't really do closeboard panels with a 50mm framing nail. 40mm staples work best. Batteries wear out and are expensive to replace. But it depends if your work is back garden work where you will be plugging into the leccy for radio and kettle anyways If you do larger fencing jobs, then there's nothing like an umbilical of air (from a larger 2.5 or 3hp compressor on site for a few days) to supply your nailers, air drill, impact gun for timberlock screws and finally a spray gun to treat the panels once you're done. I tend to stick it in the customer's garage, it's worth the small hassle of bringing a larger compressor for a few days. My recommendation is Wolf for airlines (still going strong after 6-8 years abuse for my two, and they're cheaper than any other brand spec for spec) and Silverline for nailers. I can't comment on long term reliability for the nailers but they're cheap enough and seem good so far.

The air injection is the filtration method you mention earlier? Elastostart for 2-mix hardly seems a fair swap, I presume there's extra money that changes hands towards Husky.

Air nailer setup works for me, plus I can run an impact wrench off it to do timberlock screws with. A 6l compressor and hose is tiny, the hose is not really any worse than an electric cable. Horse for courses though, all my stuff is back garden work with access to electric.

As garden shredders go, they have a good reputation.

It won't like it, and that's putting it mildly. They are shallow rooted. Birch are also relatively short lived pioneer trees, fungus often gets them when they get to that sort of age. Removing a third of the roots will not help it in the slightest. I'd be inclined to remove, do the patio and replant.

^ I think you're right! I'm waiting till they come out to replace one of my FS-70s.

Great 2-mix alternative to the 4-mix FS-90. Same power, more reliable and far cheaper. Mine are used to run polesaws and hedgecutters, occasionally a tiller head. No problems in 8 months of hard use. It's not a 'big' strimmer however. If you think you may wish to run a hedgecutter head on it in the future, it's a good buy. If you have acres of grass and bramble to clear, you need a minimum of FS-410 really.

Really? Please elaborate as I'm interested. What with Stihl having to rent 2-mix (X-torque) off Husky (if that's true?) then they may as well give up! Seriously though, I love Stihl. They just keep going.

Post of the day! How are you so sharp this time in the morning?

Depends how much you have to take off the tooth. Best to get a raker depth gauge. You will also find that your chain may judder in hardwood, but will fly and cut like a dream in softwood. Most pro cutters have a separate chain for both hardwood and softwood. Don't forget to round off the leading edge of your raker when you file them, this will keep it smooth assuming corect raker depth for the wood yo are cutting.

If I worked in forestry on piece rate, the first thing I would do would be to send my saws to Spud. No brainer. It's the same reason we run smaller bars on big powerheads. My MS250 with 12" 1.1mm bar will outcut my 034 with a 13" .325 bar on. And it weighs much less.

What's the engine in your quickchip? Is a rebuild an option?

3 point linkage unless it's a specific direct mount for a particular tractor/front of tractor

Framing nailer then.

Don't be too hard on them, in sandy or clay ground they can be handy things. Small fencing jobs, drilling holes for planting etc. Digger is the way forward for a lot of holes though, or where there are stones. I use both, and both have their place.

Alright lads, which one of you told him he could sell the wood to cover the job?

Completely normal.

Normal Stihl blade will fit, just be careful as a. it's a flexible shaft so sudden impact could break it and b. if yours is a loop handle model, it's theoretically possible to chop your foot off with it

Get a wireless alarm system. Many of them have a function where an alarm can be set to 'doorbell' zone where the unit just makes a doorbell noise for that particular sensor.. Added benefit is extra security. About £250 for a setup that can text and ring you from a sim card if an alarm is triggered when the system is armed.