doobin

Simple- you decide that your profit margin is more important, and the 1% of customers that would complain can do one as I'm buggered if I'm paying for an expensive crane AND leaving them a £5 bag! Flip them off the side, take the money and on to the next drop.

Because some of us work smarter, not harder...

Proper job mate. Where's the grapple from?

How long is a piece of string? Seriously. If you've no experience whatsoever then you'd be best off cutting hedges and subbing a climber in when you need one.

There's a course IIRC. I was going to do it a few years ago but never got round to it.

It's the same story when it's wet too mate! Sandy or chalk soil = no problem, just whack the spoil back in. Clay can be problematic. If it's wet it just won't consilidate and can also cause problems with shrinkage when it dries out and gets wet again. I had good results using crushed chalk as backfill on some fairly damp clay. Cheap, effective and can be removed easily in future.

Essential: Driving license Experience operating excavators, ideally up to 13 tons. Grapple and timber handling experience a big plus. Chainsaw experience Experience of domestic and agricultural fencing, as well as basic landscaping skills. Must be willing to undertake basic garden maintenance with machinery- lawnmowing, hedgecuting etc. No weeding. Must speak excellent English. Nice to have: Experience working on difficult ground- slopes and bogs. Tractor driving experience Some workshop skills 34" DD, blonde hair Race, gender, sexual orientation unimportant, blah blah equal opportunities, so long as you muck in to get the job done. There will be occasional early starts and late finishes but generally we make every effort to finish by four. Start at eight AM. Excellent personalised PPE provided, all workwear laundering taken care of. Pay dependant upon ability. All staff receive a monthly bonus based upon the profit of the company Would consider a profit share if you are currently self employed, fit the company ethos and have something else to bring to the table. Call Ruben for a chat, 01730 815174

I've never broken a 1/2" one despite the usual punishments metered out. That said, my 3/4 set is a Kamasa one that I picked up locally from an add in the shop window.

Wolf. I have 6l, 25l and 50l. I bought the 2.5hp 25l for £90 the other day- nothing else comes close. They take some serious abuse too. I've had the 6l one for ten years, the 50l one under the floor in the workshop for 6 years and no problems whatsoever.

You don't need a wide selection of stimmer line- the Stihl round stuff is fine. I never have line welding save for the one bad batch of cord I bought. 2.4mm twin line on grass trimming. If that's snapping then you're doing something wrong, it's as simple as that. Thicker line is a clumsier cut and more drag on the strimmer for no benefit. I run the small heads like the FS-94 on FS460s with no issues. Thicker growth is best done with 4-way head using 3mm line. The stress on each bit of line is halved as the lines are doubled- make sense? Thicker than that and it's blade time. Shredder knife.

Yeah, a set is a good starting point. I had one from Screwfix. Have replaced the ratchet with a Halfords Pro and the sockets over the years have become mainly Silverline and Bositool as they've gotten lost.

Mate, you could have paid any ag mechanic £300 to fit you a second set of aux ports and a changeover tap by now. Stop faffing around and take the advice.

Sounds like you might as well have made it yourself. At least I expect my welding to be amateurish

Brakes are fine if you keep the rear adjusters fairly tight. Electrical issues can be the biggest problem but no worse than a Transit and considerably cheaper and easier to work on.

Stihl 2.4 is perfect for all grasscutting up to light brambles. If it's constantly snapping off at the eyelet, then you're not bumping it out often enough, it's flexing and fatiguing at that point and snapping. If it's gumming up in the head, then it probably just a bad batch. It happens. Despite all the stuff you read about soaking it in water, using talc etc, it's just easier to get a new batch. I've used twenty big rolls a year for the last five years and only had one that I had to throw away. Square line I'm not a fan of- it tends to gum up much more than round. Are you using square?

Correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't that a Chinese machine?? What's your day rate?

Might be easier to buy a tractor with a loader on it and flog yours.

Your best bet by far is an ex Army webbing belt with two 1l containers (also ex army) and three pouches. One for fuel, one for water and one for cord. The position of the pouches on the belt is adjustable to get a good fit leaving space for swinging the strimmer about.

I'd say so. Had Woodwalkers for six years and now Airstream for three years.

I hope you're gonna weld a brace in there before you paint it. Otherwise it's unlikely to last very long.

What I'm saying is that some of us are aware of the hourly intervals at which different components and oils should be changed. Which differ. Just because oil needs doing, it doesn't mean everything else does.

Why wouldn't you tee off from the crowd ram to give you an easily controllable, servo operated rotation? Leaving a two way auxillary to open and shut the grab. An LGP Eddie setup with proportional rollers on the joystick and variable flow rates would be lovely. Not gonna happen for the OP- he needs the best way to do it with what he's got. In the end, it really doesn't matter. All the OP needs to do is install a t-piece leading to an aux port on both crowd ram lines, and a tap on one side. Then he can try using it both ways (foot pedal to rotate or servos to rotate) and come back and tell us which he prefers. OP- are you sure the extra pipe is for a quick hitch? If it's larger diameter than the others, it's most likely a case drain line.

It's not necessarily 'due a service if the oil is due'. That's what the hour clock is there to tell you. I appreciate that most of the stuff you see has been abused however! I do all mine myself as it's cheap and only takes ten minutes. Clean oil is the cheapest preventative maintenance there is.

With WeFit It on this one re control options. Re the actual fitment- all you need to do is fit a t-piece leading to aux connectors for the rotator and a tap on the bucket ram line. T-piece and connector each side and you only need a tap one side, just to lock the ram when you are using the grab. When diggers come piped for clamshells this is how they do it. When you connect your pips up turn the tap. No reason whatsoever to make it more complicated than this.

Just buy the missus a little car, it will save no end of hassle. Plus you can use it for quoting.