doobin
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Everything posted by doobin
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Damn computers, give me a pen and duplicate book!!
doobin replied to markieg31's topic in General chat
Get a Mac. -
If you use an 18" bar then a 9t .325 sprocket is only a couple of quid and should make a big difference.
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What sprocket are you currently running? If you're not on a 9-pin in .325 then a saw of that size is bound to feel slow
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Any chain will be blunt in five minutes with volunteers. I find 1.1mm chain is very quick to sharpen, and quite forgiving of poor sharpening technique.
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Just the sprocket. If it's a spur sprocket then the sprocket is also the clutch drum. Why are you upping the kerf and dropping the bar length?
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They are all plastic. I've snapped one in half before.
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The oregon 1.1mm has bumper tie links. This is the type that I threw two unused chains away for as it was no good.
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You're worse than the Daily Mail for quoting out of context I said 'all you need for grass and light brambles Plenty of times I've extolled the virtues of thicker lines and more of them for heavier bramble type things, or blades for thicker stuff. But thick twin line is a waste of time on light stuff in my view.
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In 1.1mm gauge Oregon chain is rubbish. All the cutters snap off. Stihl is the way forward, it's strong enough to run on an MS250 with no issues.
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Offer of a strim-off still stands my friend. Lavant Church is looking a bit crappy, it could be our good deed for the month? Anyone up for a competition meet? Like a ploughing match but for sad muppets like me? I'm all about the right tools for the job. You change the bar on your saw according to what you're cutting, why should strimming be any different?
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Apparently it's a sealed head. Been meaning to pull mine apart to stick some more in. Stupid design.
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Do you mean the size of a car calipers? Loads of machinery has disc brakes and therefore calipers 'like a car'. They will not need particularly strong brakes as Merlos are hydrostatic drive, so 90% of braking is done via hydraulic retardation.
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If you mean 2.4mm, it's because it's all you need for grass and light brambles. Less drag and quicker cut.
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MS181 with 12" 1.1mm bar. £220 and worth every penny. Local conservation group have three and love them. Secondhand will only go wrong. Have new with warranty.
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Best to cut some thin rings off it until the hollow in the middle becomes solid timber and the metal is found/blue disappears. Shouldn't take that much, hard to tell from the pic if the hollow is a tear out from felling or rot. So long as it's still 8' long by then you should get a fair price if you can deliver. Though it may make more overall as firewood in your yard with no haulage costs. The local mill should tell you what length they want it if it's too big as one. Usually 8' for sleepers or posts unless it's high grade.
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If something has broken off, it would be most likely to be clunking about on all settings? Or intermittently. If you mean it's a really loud whirr, this is probably normal on high setting. Like when you set a car to max to demist the window.
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No problem. FS-90 is solid drive shaft so no danger of snapping it either, which is something you have to watch out for on smaller models.
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You'd need to plumb a new double acting spool valve into the circuit. This also means that to make the circuit you need a return- often a pipe going straight into a port on the back end of the tractor somewhere.
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Stihl MS460 what is the minimum bar size you can run
doobin replied to pseudonymplatanus's topic in Chainsaws
Make sure you check the mixture when running a smaller bar- make sure it's not running too lean at the top end. I would just buy a new MS181 for £220 and have a proper sized saw for that job. -
It wouldn't cause any ecological problems. Only economic ones. Which as others have mentioned is what it all boils down to.
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That wanky top strut for the box really spoils an otherwise excellent job.
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Drive sprocket size for milling
doobin replied to Green Man Home and Garden's topic in Milling Forum
880 should be great on a 36in bar. I'd get all three sprockets and a chain to fit the largest. Hopefully it flies on an 8 or 9, if not then all you need to do is remove a link or two. If one chain length fits all (unlikely but you never know, it should be OK on two of the sprockets though) then you're laughing, and can pick the best sprocket according to what you're milling at the time. -
If you can't afford new, then stick with what you've got. Why replace both yours with a secondhand gamble? If you can't afford new then a slightly different saw is unlikely to make much difference to the bottom line. And when that secondhand gamble breaks, you've snookered yourself without a backup saw. I've not a lot of good things to say about a Stihl MS290, but the new MS 291 ticks your boxes and will be new with warranty: http://www.frjonesandson.co.uk/products-page/machines/chainsaws-pole-saws/petrol-chainsaws/stihl-ms-291-chainsaw-55-5cc/
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No point having them longer if the stuff you're strimming is going to tear them to pieces. Long double lines are best for quick cutting of medium grass in my book. There's only one way to sort this.... Get that knee healed up and we'll have a strim-off!
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M9 is very uncommon and far too large for the bolts you describe. More likely to be M5.
