doobin
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Everything posted by doobin
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Brakes are fine if you keep the rear adjusters fairly tight. Electrical issues can be the biggest problem but no worse than a Transit and considerably cheaper and easier to work on.
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Stihl 2.4 is perfect for all grasscutting up to light brambles. If it's constantly snapping off at the eyelet, then you're not bumping it out often enough, it's flexing and fatiguing at that point and snapping. If it's gumming up in the head, then it probably just a bad batch. It happens. Despite all the stuff you read about soaking it in water, using talc etc, it's just easier to get a new batch. I've used twenty big rolls a year for the last five years and only had one that I had to throw away. Square line I'm not a fan of- it tends to gum up much more than round. Are you using square?
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Correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't that a Chinese machine?? What's your day rate?
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Might be easier to buy a tractor with a loader on it and flog yours.
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Your best bet by far is an ex Army webbing belt with two 1l containers (also ex army) and three pouches. One for fuel, one for water and one for cord. The position of the pouches on the belt is adjustable to get a good fit leaving space for swinging the strimmer about.
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I'd say so. Had Woodwalkers for six years and now Airstream for three years.
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I hope you're gonna weld a brace in there before you paint it. Otherwise it's unlikely to last very long.
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What I'm saying is that some of us are aware of the hourly intervals at which different components and oils should be changed. Which differ. Just because oil needs doing, it doesn't mean everything else does.
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Why wouldn't you tee off from the crowd ram to give you an easily controllable, servo operated rotation? Leaving a two way auxillary to open and shut the grab. An LGP Eddie setup with proportional rollers on the joystick and variable flow rates would be lovely. Not gonna happen for the OP- he needs the best way to do it with what he's got. In the end, it really doesn't matter. All the OP needs to do is install a t-piece leading to an aux port on both crowd ram lines, and a tap on one side. Then he can try using it both ways (foot pedal to rotate or servos to rotate) and come back and tell us which he prefers. OP- are you sure the extra pipe is for a quick hitch? If it's larger diameter than the others, it's most likely a case drain line.
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It's not necessarily 'due a service if the oil is due'. That's what the hour clock is there to tell you. I appreciate that most of the stuff you see has been abused however! I do all mine myself as it's cheap and only takes ten minutes. Clean oil is the cheapest preventative maintenance there is.
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With WeFit It on this one re control options. Re the actual fitment- all you need to do is fit a t-piece leading to aux connectors for the rotator and a tap on the bucket ram line. T-piece and connector each side and you only need a tap one side, just to lock the ram when you are using the grab. When diggers come piped for clamshells this is how they do it. When you connect your pips up turn the tap. No reason whatsoever to make it more complicated than this.
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Just buy the missus a little car, it will save no end of hassle. Plus you can use it for quoting.
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Jesus, just flip them off the side of the truck! Decent vented bags even have a handle at the bottom to make this easy.
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How far had it been taken?
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For one off base construction for a building, it's far more cost effective to hire a big digger and dumper and get it all bashed out. Dumpers are cheap as chips to hire. You say it's dead money, but by the time you've paid to ship a dumper from where you buy it and dealt with your first breakdown.... Unless you have ongoing use for it rather than just this building I'd hire.
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You'd have to pay me to take it away.
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Etesia on wheels is working for me so far (only a month old). Mulching works well and lawns seem greener despite the heat. Agree re the rollers- not worth the hassle unless you are charging enough to cover it. Anywhere with a formal enough lawn to deserve stripes would have their own in-house gardener anyway! Hayter are all crap.
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"To estimate how tall the tree is, and how much space you will need on the ground, hold an ax in front of you vertically, with your arm straight. It should be at arm’s length. Close one eye and slowly back way from the tree. Keep walking until the top of the ax lines up with the top of the tree and the bottom lines up with the base of the tree. The place you are standing is about where the top of the tree will land." And I thought you just walked away then bent over and peered backwards between your legs!
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1. Register as self employed- you can do this in addition to your factory job no problem. 2. Visit every company in the area, telling them you are are self-employed, qualified, can drive- and will work weekends for £20 and a sandwich to gain experience. 3. Gain that experience every weekend for a few months. More importantly, gain contacts. 4. When you are sufficiently in demand at a high enough rate for enough days (incrementally increase your day rate as you learn) then quit your factory job and take it from there. Worked for me.
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This. More meat, eggs and veg.
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It would be somewhat rude not to, IMHO.
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Add me to that list! Proper food. Re the chocolate- the health benefits of cocoa are well documented. A 100g bar of 85% dark chocolate actually fits my macros pretty well. 19g of carbs and the rest fat and protein! :thumbup: I can even eat a whole bar and stay in Keto if I want to.
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I got a lot of comments about being too skinny, and in retrospect I was, at 10 stone 10lbs and 6' high I'm still eating Paelo with occasional cheese. It's not a diet, it's a way of life, just eat natural. Now I eat a lot more, lift as much weight as I can and weigh in at 12st. I find I need more carbohydrates to lift heavy, so not so much keto but still low carb. 10% body fat which is how I am tracking my progress now. More weight is fine so long as it's in muscle form. Congratulations to all you who have made progress in this way, and well done especially to whoever started this thread!
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I hear what you're saying re use the biggest machine you can for the job, but a 1.5t will do the work of half a dozen men, especially with attachments like grabs and augers etc. It's the cheapest man on the job by a long shot.
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People managed just fine in the past without a stop to prevent you selecting reverse. It's called 'mechanical sysmpathy and not being a moron'...
