doobin
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Everything posted by doobin
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If you're working a woodland, a small tractor is far more productive and cheaper to run. If you must have a quad, then you won't go wrong with anything Japanese.
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Any reason you can't just rip it up and burn it? Rhodi is a nightmare to try to chip anyway.
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:lol:
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I bet the bungalow isn't 250-300 years old... A bit of chicken of the woods doesn't strike me as rendering a yew inherently unsafe. It's not like a big old oak or ash which could drop a major limb.
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If you've got the contracts and payment terms laid out then you may be able to get a startup loan I would have thought. Presume this is for your planting work? Do you need to take on staff straight away?
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You can buy Chinese replacement batteries for the Makita LXT that work well. About £40. My 6 year old 3-speed Makita is battered like you wouldn't believe but just keeps going.
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If it's just for a towing and then loading a mill, I'd say a farm tractor a rear mounted forklift would be your best bet. Sounds like you need the load capacity of a telehandler but not the reach? Rear forklift will lift an awful lot, and you can hitch a trailer behind it. All old Matbros are a pig on the road. Tractors are far better for roadwork.
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That's not urban! Despite what others are saying, a grapple is cheap and will give you instant 'grab and lift' capabilities to get you started. That and five buckets is better than the average builder. I'm with Eddie on the machine though, it's not a good spec for tree work.
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Surely the factory could just tell the dealer to go forth and multiply?
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If the saw is to be dedicated to the mill, then I'd assume the more power the better (and bigger oiler)?
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Wider kerf. More work on the (small) saw when there is no need IMHO. I run the thinnest (1.1mm) Stihl 3/8 picco on my MS250 (12" bar), and run it hard. I've never broken a chain. I was felling hard old yews with it a couple of weeks ago and really pushing it. It just cuts so well with such a thin bar. Smooth, controlled and oodles of power. All this talk of MS241s, I really want one! Power to weight of my MS250 and pro build quality
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Take it down your local motor factors and they will match it up no bother, probably off the shelf or later this afternoon. About as cheap as you will find one also. All it needs to do is fit in the space properly and possibly have the terminals the right way round depending upon the length of your leads.
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12" is on a 3/8 (picco) sprocket, not .325. .325 is a stupid kerf for a small saw if you ask me. I agree, 18" would have made it suffer and defeated the object of such power to weight ratio.
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That was going to be twenty grand?? You dodged a bullet there mate.
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Your missing the point. Some poor kid trying to get started will pay them £15 for the privilege of phoning a timewaster like you...
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Google Service Magic and you will find that they are a waste of time, bordering upon a scam.
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All you need is an adaptor, about a tenner Or you can remove the 6-spline female from one end and just fit a 1000 spline female for about the same cost.
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I love a happy ending
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It's all Chinese. The machine quality is probably OK but I wouldn't recommend LTS. Had a plasma cutter from them, damaged in transit, circuit boards bent in half. I sent it back, they 'fixed a switch' and sent it back to me (still all bent inside), then claimed they were out of stock to send a replacement. The thing works fine and I can't be arsed to argue the toss/post it back AGAIN, but I'd advise you to shop elsewhere.
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What do you expect, posting a vague as hell spec, 'any method will do' ? What do you intend to do with the arisings? You haven't even specified if they need to be removed. Do you have any idea how much shite will be left? Or are you confusing a mulcher with a vapouriser? If you want a clean site, then it's a toss-up between hiring a tub grinder and grab lorry to transport it to a green waste site, or just cutting the long bits and hiring the same lorry do do a couple of runs. As you pay by the ton to tip at a green waste site, a couple more runs will probably work out much cheaper than grinding first. You still haven't said why no fires. Big cost saving there. If you want to be the middleman on jobs like this then you need to post a solid spec. No wonder nobody bothered to reply.
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You could have said that in the first post, rather than 'any method will do'... What's the reason for no fires? If you mulch that, the next thing the client will be asking about is what to do with the arisings. It's gonna be a fair old pile of crap even after its been mulched.
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If there's an 8 tonner and grab on site, it just needs a decent operator and a match If you need the above then PM me.
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New with warranty every time for me.
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As I understand it- if you are a labour only subcontractor, the same rules now apply in forestry as in construction, so you are taxed at source under the CIS scheme. Plenty of LOSC were taking the piss and not paying tax- this is why the CIS came into being. If you are genuinely self employed and buying machines/tools to advance your business, all you need to do is provide a UTR to prove you are registered and paying tax.
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sawdust/wood shavings/wood burning workshop stoves | eBay I'd recommend them. Yes, it does warp a bit with it being plate steel rather than cast, but for the money it's superb. You could always weld it if it cracked, but the guy who makes them told me he's got customers with 10 year old ones still running fine. They burn joinery sawdust very well. This is very dry at 10-15%. Fill it up, open the top vent and stick a blowtorch in. Job done, yard heated in ten minutes. Sawdust from log processing is hopeless, far too wet.
