doobin

Nominal capacity doesn't really have much bearing upon an engines gross HP these days. I have no experience of that model but I really can't see that the 1.9l engine would be anything less than super stressed towing 3.5t- it'll probably rely upon twin turbos and all sorts of gadgets to make its 125PS. The 3l makes only 25PS more but has a lot more CC behind it. 150PS is barely enough to tow 3.5t happily plus loaded truck in my experience, and with previous Isizu models the more powerful models command a premium secondhand. Seems simple until you realise that the larger engine has both ad blue and a DPF, whereas the smaller engine has just 'Lean NOX Trap'. I have no idea what this is, it might stress the engine further to achieve emmisions as per my first paragraph or it may be a a big step forward in simplifying emmisions control. Not an easy choice!

I really can't see why you'd bother repairing something like that. Donate it to your local steam museum, the volunteers there would love a weekend project!

You’ll have to come over for a coffee soon mate. I’m closer than you think ?

Only for you ?

Efficient strimming is mainly in the hips and knees in my experience.

Same, but the whole MTD is a bit of a cluster****************.

Consider a pro clearing saw such as the FS460 if you need a 'brushcutter' rather than a 'strimmer'. A world of difference in comfort and productivity. I personally couldn't recommend anything with a 4-mix engine, such as the FS131. But yes, the combi tool version with a strimmer head would be pretty much identical to use as the strimmer version. I also don't rate jet fit- to wasteful. We use a 4-way head with 2.7mm cord for heavier growth. Double the cords means in effect half the wear on each individual cord, and I prefer this to a 2-way head with thicker cord.

Agree with dan. Rubble soak away is a pikey job.

Yes but not on a new machine.

What sort of contractor worth their salt wouldn't query such a work order before starting work?

Interesting instruments. What else do you make/play?

To have splayed they can’t have been built strong enough in the first place. Bend them back, then they will slowly splay themselves back the other way. Repeat until failure.... sound like the usual gm crock of shite excuses.

Blimey. Are you sure you're not confusing carbide with diamond chain?

Bloody cash is more hassle than it's worth. You can't use it to pay for business stuff, so if you don't like spunking it down the pub (I don't) about all you can do with it is buy second hand tools with no VAT 'off the books'. Trouble is, loosing the VAT on domestic jobs makes a big difference to the customer, so I tend to loose a lot of quotes this way.

Digger. Any one of them. What you can do with one in an hour would take a gang of blokes all day.

That's how it is though. Just don't worry about it. Now much else you can do, 95% of small tree companies run the same. The trucks mechanically are good for a lot more weight, but UK weight limits on a car licence are not.

Brushless Makita tools are approximately double the tool of their non brushless equivalents in my experience- it's a quantum leap forward in terms of output and battery life. If you are doing a lot of sanding then don't overlook the brushless Makita with the speed control- super helpful for sanding and of course battery life. My second 5" makita has this function, and I wish both did. Don't forget that there are knock off batteries up to 9ah available to help with run time, although I think a pair of 9AH won't fit my brushless circular saw for some reason- might be the same with the 9" grinder. Final thing to consider- do you really need 9" or would 7" be enough (oeer missus!)? I've invested in a 150mm Metabo corded grinder and it's the bollocks. All you need for grinding and you can get 1.2mm thick discs for it similar to the 1mm 125mm ones for cutting quick. Makita offer that double battery grinder in 9 and 7", and 7" will most likely be better on the juice. Hope this helps.

Let's not also forget that Britian led the way in abolishing the slave trade.

That was awesome.

It's only a souless task if you don't have the right tools. Mag drill is great if you have a big metal bench you can site it on, and also tack some end stops/side quides so that you can drill every first hole, then change to every second hole etc. You'd really want a coolant system too so it gets complicated and a fly press and punch starts to look like a good idea. For grinding the tops, get yourself a firm vented backing pad and some ceramic fibre discs, 36 grit. Clean steel just melts away, they are controllable and 'soft' allowing you to radius easily. And they cut cold too, not much heat. Basically as they wear, the grain fractures exposing a new sharp edge. The ultimate is a wall mounted grinder with a rest plate at the font.

I dunno. £12.50 online for a 2m post. Plus carriage. 2m of 40x12 steel from Parkers is roughly £6.60 for that sort of quantity, plus you'll need to get the rod from them anyhow. So it's £5.90 per post to drill the holes and grind the tops. I could do 100 in an easy day on the mill with a mag cutter and the disc grinder with a 36 grit ceramic fibre pad. So £590 for a chilled day drinking coffee in the workshop, in the dry with the radio on. Yeah, you might use a cutter or two up and some grinding discs, say £30. But you're looking at £60 for a pallet to get the premade stuff delivered. Not massive money but enough to make me do my own. That said, that designermetal supply only page looks fair value.

Too far for me I’m afraid. However if you have a welder it’s not rocket science and steel is cheap. Your local fab shop should be able to punch out the posts to your spec. I use 10x40 flats for the posts and if round bars (flow better up and down hills as well as corners) then 21mm and 16mm round from memory. If you have a pillar drill you could even use a mag drill cutter to do the holes yourself so long as you have a repeatable and reliable end stop set up.

The iae stuff is dogshit imho. Horses in particular will trash it very quickly, it bends easily. It doesn’t flow like proper estate fencing as you have a welded panel of sorts and then a joint with movement. I wouldn’t use it, especially as the cost worked out similar to doing it properly welded. Where is the job?

If it helps, we've only ever run our lines long on our three FS460s/1xfs480, they must be aged between three to 8 years by now.