swinny

The 25k was for me. Never suggested for you. The guy with the case if he's a mechanical moron the thing could be a death trap.... track rod ends, axle pivots, king pins, brakes etc all can have play and be worn. You will find something with in your budget but not sure of condition etc. I would also say steer away from electrical things also.... I'd be looking for something mid 80's-90's Also if you want something with a loader on you should buy with a loader fitted allready! pita messing after and costly. John deere can be dear on parts... Some of the fords of that age the engine blocks went porous You also need to decide on 4 pot non turbo? 4 pot turbo or 6 cyl

All i can say is its easier to buy something than sell something! Even if your carefull on all the checks something can still go wrong woth the tractor. Make sure you have decent back up for your brand of tractor with a good dealer etc nearby. 6k wont get you much. Tractors seem to have risen in price from a few years ago. Also cabs should not be welded as voids insurance Last time I bought a tractor it was over 10k mark and still wanted plenty doing to it. Smaller tractors are often dearer than bigger ones! More people want a smaller nimble tractor. If your going to use it a lot then i’d double your budget and leave some ontop fpr repairs and service to bring it up to par.... Serious business to me is running a tractor on the road, they need to be spot on! For me to upgrade from my tractor now i’d end up spending 25-35k to get something to keep me satisfied.

What i would say is an a530 is a great chipper but unless its done something different its a dated design. I run an a530t machine and have done for years..... Most modern machines will wipe the floor with them on production.... my tw230 would kick its arse all day long as would munch up most forks and branches all day without snedding. with a jensen a530 you do need to cut for the chipper... that said as a contractor machine it will munch 6” all day and not complain. i like the big blades on the jensen. all in all day to day the tw230 kicks its arse.... will the tw230 be anygood after years of work? Im not sure.... my old jensen has done 2600 odd hours and still can put a good shift in

Yes. Most folk dont know their arse from their elbow by the sounds of it though ?

Great stuff Josh! So is that a 540t and a zt in a 6’ internal trailer? Good to know as i’ve just gone for a 6’ internal trailer to fit tracked chipper and grinder in one. Would be good to upgrade from the old 530 to a 540 at some point

? employers liability is peanuts..... 40.00 a day extra ? youd be on more profit from that then climbing ?

Out of flavour and most think dated now.... Most of mine goes firewood or biomass unfortunately

Hi there, Just after some clarification on what this fungi is at the base of this sycamore? Many thanks

I awaite the stoning lol

Spot on really.... I have a lad who will take the cedar for carving.... ash is just sat here. Too labour intensive for logs at big diameters.... big stuff unless nice / unusual goes for biomass unfortunately but keeps the yard clear. my other thought is would love a nice solid bench for the garden but probabily a long drawn out and expensive job? Have had plenty of oversized beech 3-4’ plus but that goes for biomass aswell due to space

Ive a nice big lump of ash and a lump of cedar at the yard. Seeing this makes me want to have them milled but would have no use for them

Id say is the grass really greener? You sound like you like your job and projects with all the added benefits of being employed. Id say jump in both feet on your own or stick where you are

What you plan to do with the product after?

Im not familiar with the plant but why not knock 2 2” posts in either side depending on width of crown / foliage..... then run some canes accross from post to post and tie the plant back to these to assist it?

Im wanting to know peoples opinions on the predator p38 and the new bandit zt. would be owner operator. As i see it the predator is narrower and grinds deeper. But it does weigh near a ton. Has anyone found this bit too much weight for domestic jobs? Going over flagged areas or onto beds etc Both 38hp Cheers

I think you should start buying good tb106 diggers up to sell to arbtalk members Eddie lol i bet youve a closet full of them lol

Well i hope theyre ok i just bought a new one last week ?

Yes keep your 181. I bought a stihl ms362 this week to replace my husky 550. Im not a massive husky fan to be fair. i was going to try the 365 husky the main point being no mtronic but rest of my stuff is stihl. All my bars still interchangeable and all on 3/8 so no different files etc Go try some saws if you can before spending brass

If im typing on behalf of you Stubby can you forwards me details to send the invoice please

Hi, problem is people at the saw shop love people who arnt up on what they need etc... they gave you poor ish advice in my opinion, only thing in your favour is maybe you get less back ache with the longer bar. On the other hand if your not the best at sharpening i bet your wearing the bar easily and putting a lot of pressure on it / sprocket nose too. 20” wood at work i would pick up the 441” and crack on. Times money and theres nothing more frustrating when doing a time consiming job like ringing up with a saw thats too small for the task. 261 stihls were having issues with the needle bearings and buggering cranks. Supposidly been sorted by now but who knows..... husq 365 is good bang for your buck, 500 plus vat for 18” bar brand new. Have a look. If you like them crack on and buy one as theyre phasing out the 3 series saws.

Also it if you got machine second hand it may be that someone has put the wrong belts on in the past and you just keep getting the same belts as going off numbers on old belts. i had this on my vermeer 252 someone put wrong belts on and they were a softer compound and sat too far in the pulley. Dealer belts sorted that

Dont know setup on them but are they v belts from engine to cutter wheel? If so how many? look at the pulleys they sit in, they can wear and have a ridge at the top that gets sharp, also if theyre not inline thay can bugger them. Also if too tight and your rough arse when grinding. Also if your running blunt teeth. lots to consider

Got wood, you may run a 16” bar on a 181 but no offence intended, run a 16” bar on a proper saw 261/362 and you’ll wonder why you messed about and put up with the 181, it will be so slow in comparison

Yes couldnt understand people running an 18” on an 026, i always ran a 15” and kept it sharp. I think the poster on here would be needing minimum 60cc if not a 70cc Its all about time, esp on 20” plus wood you need something on top of the job! I’ve given up on 50cc now and gone back to 60cc for smallest ground saws.

This is ok etc but in fairness does that cover all your house bills anf business running costs? Pointless to me paying for something that wont cover my bills fully. i prefer wool on my back and i’d keep the 700.00 or so you spend a year