Pro Gard

I own two sets of paramo pajaro waterproof jackets and trousers. One for work and one for out of work use. The trousers are great and you can wear them as trousers on the skin and be dry and not hot all day if out walking or shooting etc. With the paramo jacket the sleves are vented and are designed so you can roll them up over your elbow if the weather is warm. The outer layer of the paramo will tear on thorns if you wear it for heavy work. However this is not the actual waterproof layer so you can stitch it up with no problems or indeed have it cut to ribbons and still be dry. My work coat and overtrousers have pleanty of tears in the outer fabric but still keep me dry. With this coat i dont worry about thorns or wire and just get on with things. My non work coat used for mountain walking and shooting has no holes in it and is used in normal terrain with a degree of care. I have had lots of different gortex jackets in the past but once they get torn youve had it and they are not as breathable as the paramo. In really wet weather the only wet bit i have with paramo is the base of the sleaves were the water trickles up when working.

M and G tool hire have a tracked Vermeer think they share it between the Newport and Chepstow depots.

I have used Stoves and Flues of Lydney on two occasions now for supply and installation of a couple of hunter Hawks and associated flue and have been happy on both occasions.

if it's realativly dry then a bucketful of dry timber off cuts or brocken up branches, a rag and a splash of something combustable, usually diesel. If it's conifer then you can get a fire going starting it with the dead branches from the middle very easily. If wet and away from houses then an old tire with diesel poured into the rim and a rag as a wick, always works but remember to rake up and bury the wires the next day. I don't believe all those who say no tires, no need at all in the spring summer and autumn but in the winter when you've got 3 days of rain soaked brash to burn, jobs stacking up and pouring rain then it works. No one would use them near houses or even burn near houses I'd always chip. Out in the open were no one can see tires work very well.

Serbian spruce

Regardless of the lock or trailer make unless you use a decent hitch lock that covers the two coupling head bolts its just a matter of undoing two m12 nuts and swapping the coupling head, a silent job that can be done in less than 60 seconds with a ratchet socket. Personally I rate ifor Williams for towing stability, build and resale. After five years of daily abuse, full loads, high speeds and often pothole laden rural roads my ifor is still going strong all she has cost me is a set of tires plus break shoes.

That is Virginia creeper, not ivy. It should with luck pull off from the base, cut it low then ease the stem away using a crow bar, get around 6' lose then use jerking tugs and with luck it will come off in sections. It will leave the small sucker marks on the surface of the wall and the client needs to be aware of this. I could do the job in around a day so 1.5 to allow leeway and definitely ladders for the stubborn bits.

If im right the 460 isthe same weight as the 441. I dont find either heavy to use all day but then agin im used to using them . Personally I run a 441 as my every day saw, 20", low vibration levels, good fuel use and pleanty of power.

Why does the guy need a 70cc or a 95cc saw. As a first saw a second hand026 or 346 will be fine for him and would outperform the chinky saw. Only worth getting a big saw when the money is coming in.

Perhaps you need to ree think the way you word your forum posts then as I'm farr from alone in having been confused

Have you got insurance or even any saw tickets? I doubt it. At this rate you will injure yourself, someone else or get prosecuted. You seriously need to work on your tree identification for a start before you even think of cutting anything. A £100 chinky saw from ebay and felling trees without permission / climbing on Knacked old used rope is not the way to start any credible business. You would be advised to work for someone else and build your funds up then go about things properly starting with some training...... there may even be grants you could get.

Small jobs it will be fine, but you wouldnt want to use it for 6 hours.

HS45 is a domestic machine, very high vibes as minimal anti vibe and the blades are fairly por steel. Get the Stihl HS81 or HS86

Once you have had a face to face hand over or if you were a customer before the policy change then, most places will still post.

I really rate the 441, mine is my every day saw. Woods ported by Pete390 with a 20" eats wood.

I would go for an MS230 preferably new, this is about the smallest of the amateur spec saws that I consider has enough guts to be useful. Remember that a stihl will if looked after give you 10 years easy with light use, how many cheap saws would you have had to buy in this time. Buy quality once not crap twice.

I cant see dif locks being cost effective to have fitted. A winch will be a great addition however. A few sand mats also and you should be able to get out of most things. Its all about how you drive not the truck IMO.

I used to swear by berghause GR20 GTX leather but my last two pairs have failed prematurely with the sole splitting away. I'm now wearing Haix Nebraska boots imported from Germany, absolutely brilliant.

Yeah, switch on stick, Pree select low for 1,2,3,4, flick forward for 5,6,7,8

Recently done mine, Usual theory test, medical etc. Then test consists of vehicle checks, parking bay reverse park, controled stop from 20mph then a drive on the roads and a hill start. TBH I found it ok, hardest thing was geting used to the splitter box, used to driving tractors trailers etc so etra length and with no problem.

The guy deserves praise not punishment. Anyone breaking in to my property will gets whats coming for them, the last guy who tried got a glancing blow from a weighted drain rod.... I suspect from the crunch that it broke his wrist.

I have an old Ellwell 7lb axe, year stamped 1915 and 215 off the production line. It was given to me by a customer and is perfectly balanced, splits better than any maul or axe I have used.

441 is a more versatile saw with better fuel economy and power. I would chose it by a long mile over a 361.

i rate the 361 better than the 357, I replaced my 361 with a 357 and miss it every day..... the 357 has given me constant greif. Personally though Id just get a 372, tested build, only a tad heavyer and a lot more power.

Nowt a drop of cilit bang can't clean lol. Seriusly, thats one hell of a s* hole.