monkeybusiness

Don't sell logs then! A race to the bottom is a mug's game...

It won't leak any oil out if the leak is on the suction side of the pump. A leaking seal will let air into the hydraulic system, and you won't be able to see it happening (but it will make the oil foam up when it returns to the tank, and then expand out of the breather after a while). I doubt very much that it is water in the oil as it wouldn't necessarily expand when running and then leak out of the breather (unless it was a massive amount of water, which I doubt). I would definitely not change any components until you know what the issue is - if it is water in the oil how is it getting in? If it is air in the oil,how is it getting in? Either way, fix that issue first and then pressure test the system to check for damaged components. Maybe find a local hydraulic firm to give it a quick once over - I guarantee from what you are posting that it will save you money in the long run.

Are you certain there is water in the oil? Hydraulic oil can foam up and come out of the breather (top of tank, sometimes the filler cap itself) if it is sucking air in from somewhere. It will be on the suction side - check all the connections and seals on any filters between the pump and the hydraulic oil tank. The pressure side will squirt oil out if there is a leak, so is easy to find.

I'm certainly not anti-police. The ladies and gents doing the policing are over-stretched and have their hands tied in many cases by bureaucracy (I have several friends who are coppers at different levels, and get a bit of an insight into their frustrations). The whole system is massively flawed when it comes to this sort of crime and travelling criminals - there is a very real problem that is difficult to deal with under the current way forces and the law works, and it is unlikely to be shaken up and resolved as people aren't dying (which they arguably are with easy-to-prosecute road traffic offences). This plays into the thieves hands as they know that they are unlikely to get caught, and there isn't the resource to undertake sting operations etc for such minor crime. Keep your gear as safe as you can, make sure you are insured, and have some reassurance from the recent case of the Welsh chap who filled two thieves in (broken legs etc) and has just had the court let him off prosecution as it was deemed reasonable force under the circumstances. I'm not suggesting you should break any scrotes' legs if you catch them in the act mind... Please don't do that...

We had a chipper nicked off site a few years ago - realised it had gone within half an hour maximum of it being taken. The lads on site phoned the police and reported it stolen and I jumped in the car and shot across from another job. About 2 miles from where it was taken (on a major trunk road) there was a police car stopped - I spoke to the officers who were unaware of the theft, even though it had been reported as having just been stolen 15 mins before. We were apparently in another force's area (North Wales as opposed to Cheshire, where the theft had taken place) and the 2 forces don't talk to each other. Total ineptitude, the thieves have got free reign from what I can see.

The fact that different forces use different crime systems is a total joke - I'm pretty sure these thieving scumbags don't really stick to robbing in one county. If there was a nationwide sharing of information (shouldn't be too hard in this day and age) securing convictions would surely be much easier?!

Any machine is better than manual labour. A 3 tonner can do a massive amount of work. Fantastic looking set up!

Relentless! What a weapon! What size Takeuchi is that?

If I pick up a baby calf every day will I one day be able to pick up a cow?

I had a chipper nicked - the insurers paid out with no issues (which was excellent). However, my renewal doubled - they basically tried to get half their money back in one hit. I had no choice but to move my business elsewhere (I expected an increase and ended up paying more than before, but they were taking the Mickey!).

I think your best bet is annual treatment. I know of a couple of old school farmers who liberally slap on a (rather unenvironmentally friendly) mix of old engine oil and creosote every year, and let it run down the posts into the ground. The fences seem to last forever!

Wow - what a beast!!!

Great machines, very powerful, massive indeed, really reliable if maintained. Don't rely on the hour clock - they can reset themselves. Check all the things you would on any chipper - make sure there is no play in the rotor bearings (stick a bar in between it and the housing and ensure it doesn't move front to back or up and down in the bearings). Also check the hydraulic oil hasn't got water in it (run it for a while and check it isn't milky - don't just check the site glass, open the filter housing on top and make sure the oil is clean inside). Make sure the axle is in good shape and the wheels point where they are supposed to! Ring Greenmech with the serial number to make sure it isn't stolen (there are 2 of mine out there that were nicked, and I'm certainly not the only one who has lost these machines). If mine turns up let me know and I'll sort you out with a good cash reward!

That is ace!

That's my gripe with ROLO - cost to business is huge for a course that doesn't actually teach anyone anything that hasn't already been covered in their NPTC training. The HSE touch screen test can be passed by pretty much anyone with a small degree of common sense - that is an inexpensive box ticking exercise that should be enough in conjunction with relevant industry certification (CS units etc). I have no issue whatsoever investing in training that upskills my staff - ROLO is nothing more than a tax to allow staff on site though. Even if a firm had to pay a nominal fee per man to an auditor who could cross reference individual competencies against the passing of the relevant HSE touch screen test and then award a relevant CSCS card it would be a far better/more cost effective system than the current joke that is ROLO IMO. Back to the thread topic - if you have any interest in the Arb Association (or any other possible trade body) at all then I would definitely recommend attending one of their seminars. Very informative, absolutely no pressure, gives a good indication of what is required (in terms of paperwork etc as well as financially), and can open eyes to how things should be done properly (I think anyone attending would come away looking at the way they do certain things within their businesses and seeing scope for improvement).

Mine had the restriction on it in 94.

I passed my driving test in 1994 aged 17 (in Pwllheli funnily enough JustMe...) and have always been restricted to 8250kg, originally on my initial paper licence and subsequently ever since. When I was 20 I used to drive vans/7.5 tonners with various trailers for exhibition companies and the 8250kg limit and the 1997 cut off date was a serious consideration when it came to employment and also exhibition trailer design. It was common to use 5 tonne Renault Messenger vans that could carry a decent payload of generators/display kit, and have trailers built down to a maximum weight of 3.25 tonnes. We couldn't tow anything of worth behind the 7.5 tonners - the lads that could had all done an additional test (but not a full HGV test).

As per thread title, I'm looking for sites that will take chip in the Birkenhead and surrounding areas. If anyone knows of anywhere I am all ears boys and girls! Cheers, Dan (07970188050).

What is it?

That ribbed bit should slide down as tight and square as you can and then be fire cemented in. You can drill the collar and put a couple of self tappers through to hold it down too if required.

Mega! They look superb!

I think that's most likely your issue. I've got a timber grab that is a pain to drop off and I thought was best left attached to a log. Getting it back on the machine and detached from the log is almost impossible because of the issues you're having.

Do it on the grab fittings too. Make sure it is closed before removing (so gravity isn't adding to the issue) and turn the machine off, then ignition on and operate open/close to dump any pressure in the grab. Remove. On refitting, dump pressure out of the grab service lines as already stated and couple up. If it won't go together jam the pointy hydraulic undoerer device into the fittings on the grab to release any temperature induced pressure issues. Plug in and go grabbing!

Are you competent? Have you got rigging experience?

Can you not release the pressure in the fittings before plugging in? I've got a hex head combi-spanner for a bit of proddy proddy jammy jammy when the quick releases want a fight.