monkeybusiness
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Everything posted by monkeybusiness
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LGP Eddie on here made up a 3PL forestry winch and converted it from PTO to hydraulic drive. Looks the dog's danglies (set up on his machine with Oil Quick etc it is a pick up and put down jobby without even leaving the cab). Someone will know where it is on here I reckon.
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Best mainstream 4x4 pickup for towing 3.5t
monkeybusiness replied to Matthew Storrs's topic in Arb-Trucks
I've yet to hear of anyone who has run one of the larger rover v8s (ie over 3.9l) and not had issues. Shame really, as they sound lovely! -
I know towball wear is an issue, but the other thing to bear in mind is that American hitches use a larger cup and ball (2'') than we do (50mm). I know this can be a problem that owners are oblivious to with imported boat trailers - if someone brought an American chipper across then it would more than likely have too big a hitch to safely attach to a uk ball (even though it would appear to lock on).
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I don't think there is much incentive for manufacturers and retailers to help prevent theft or assist owners in recovering their stolen assets. Every theft is another sale after all. Anyone who buys kit knowing it is stolen (or 'turns a blind eye', 'sometimes you are better off not knowing', 'ask no questions' etc etc) feeds these scumbags and helps perpetuate this industry.
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I've seen towbar bolts snap on vans several times. Fortunately I've only ever had one bolt fail myself, discovered when next stopped (the other held miraculously). I know of a big 3.5 tonne exhibition box trailer destroying a garden when it left the tow vehicle as a result of broken towbar bolts - what could-have-been doesn't bear thinking about. All of the instances I know/have been involved with have happened to well maintained vehicles with legally weighted trailers. The breakaway cables are essential potential life savers, and should always be attached to something fixed to the vehicle (not attached to anything held in place by the towball bolts).
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I wouldn't buy a second hand two stroke engined machine unless I knew its history personally. I'd want to know that it had been run on decent fuel for a start!
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Wowsers, I'm a bit too slow but better than I realised! The oracle has spoken above already!
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Is a feed roller motor leaking around the drive shaft? I'm not familiar with the setup on the quadchip but if there is a weep from a roller motor it would probably end up in the chip unnoticed. Pull the motors and check for wetness would be my starting point.
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Crappy news mate, I've spread the word. Let me know if you need a hand with anything.
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Speak of the devil!!! Now that is service you'll struggle to beat Mr Verance!
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And then turning it off from full revs...
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Phone Greenmech and speak to Jason in the service department - he'll tell you how to adjust the settings over the phone.
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Look at 45hp tractors then! A quick wheel mod wouldn't be difficult on any machine. In reality, 30hp with a machine with stress control is probably going to be fine anyway.
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I'm interested in where this thread goes as it is something I've often toyed with. If you can get the weight right I don't think there is any problem with making it fit into a 12' Ifor tipper (as you say, you need to do the whole tractor/chipper set up at a max of 2.5 tonnes to be legal). A front loader with check valves won't take up any room on the trailer as you could tow with it up in the air and have the tractor's nose right against the headboard, and the chipper could hang over the tailboard a bit if necessary (as long as your nose weight is positive once loaded). I know Greenmech used to do a 6 inch PTO machine (probably still do) that mounted sideways to reduce the overall length (and subsequent leverage on the back of the tractor). If you could get a modern 6'' machine (quadchip/Arborist 150/TW230etc) as a sideways mounted PTO machine on a 35hp plus front loader compact tractor on turf tyres you'd have a great set up! Now then, what is it all going to weigh?!
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Always get a serial number (photographed on machine unless you can see it in person) and cross reference with manufacturer/TER/Arbsafe etc. Also find out where the buyer bought it from, and ring them. If it is genuine none of this will be a problem to a legitimate seller - if they are not forthcoming with this info just walk away. If you buy a stolen machine you are 1 - driving the market for stolen goods. 2 - going to struggle to buy parts/get proper dealer support if the machine breaks. 3 - likely to lose your new purchase with no recourse if/when it is discovered to be stolen (you might as well burn your money now and save yourself the grief/tainted reputation). There are lots of legitimate chippers for sale - if you aren't convinced by one just walk away and save yourself the hassle.
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As already said, run it through a basic petrol engine. If it doesn't run, add more petrol until it does. Diesel fuel pumps and injectors have extremely fine tolerances and require the lubricity of the diesel to prevent wear - any petrol in the mix strips this lubrication and you subsequently generate wear, which is why it is not good to put petrol in modern diesel engines. Petrol engines aren't going to wear out when a lubricating additive (oil, diesel etc) is included in he fuel, but they may not run as well/might run a bit smoky etc. I wouldn't personally put the mix in a modern petrol car but you won't hurt a mower/generator/stump grinder etc.
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A 35hp petrol engined chipper is going to drink fuel - you'll need a monster tank if planning a big day I'd imagine. Yet another reason to pass your towing test...
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I'd try it as mower fuel, or something with a Honda GX or equivalent engine, even if you mix it further with more petrol. We always put 2 stroke in the generator, water pump and jet wash that have Honda and/or cheap Chinese copy engines and they all run fine (we don't keep unmixed fuel in the yard to avoid chainsaw disasters...)
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Got to love a Transporter - you're in pretty good company in that owners club.... http://www.realwire.com/preview_writeitfiles/Jimmy1.jpg
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Exactly this - our job is hard on kit and stuff wears out. That is all fair enough, and part of running a business - there are no comeback to the lads for any of that. It is the total lack of care/abuse that leads to damage that is the issue - as Bob says it seems to be a lot less likely to happen to kit lads have paid for themselves.
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I don't think the Xmas party thing is the correct or ultimate solution - I've been trying to come up with something workable all year and have only fallen back on this as it was mentioned at the start of the year and I feel that I need to try and reinforce the point somehow! The store person would be the best answer I reckon, but expensive and unfortunately not really viable in a small business like mine. I'm going to watch this thread with interest and see if anyone has a decent solution that I can pinch going into next year!
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I try to treat my lads to a decent Christmas bonus/day out/booze up. Last year it cost a few grand in total (and was a great laugh!), and at the start of the year I earmarked the same for this Christmas. However, I warned the lads that breakages etc would have to come out of it. I'm not sure they believed me as there appeared to be some surprise when I told them there was no money left when I was asked what we are doing this Christmas. It's pretty gutting to be honest as they are great lads and I really enjoy our annual shindig, but I really really need to reinforce the point that leaving saws out that subsequently get nicked/running chippers with loose/missing blades until the flywheel rotor is destroyed/running fully laden brand new trailer tyres into curbs thus tearing chunks out of the sidewalls on a regular basis/running pole pruners with no air filters until the engine is knackered/leaving lowering kit/fuel cans/rakes on site/in chip piles/wherever etc etc costs a lot of money!
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What he said. It's the manual lowering valve - mine has a knurled silver head that you push in and turn to let the ram/body drop through gravity. If this isn't fully reset the body will slowly lower on its own. It can get pretty stiff though.
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I heard about this today Dave, really crappy news. Give me a shout if you need a hand with anything mate.
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A round silage bale on the front of a 3000 would be asking for trouble anyway! We've got one and I'm sure the loader would physically lift, but I doubt the bale would leave the floor (the rear wheels would come up first!).
