monkeybusiness

Hi - we've got a small site clearance in Llangefni next Wednesday/Thursday and I could do with a home for the logs and chip somewhere on Anglesey, or close to Bangor. If anyone can help please give me a ring/text on 07970188050. Cheers, Dan.

Simon - take a day off and attend one of the AA workshops. They are free and will give you all the info you need. Whether you end up going through the Arb Approved process afterwards is up to you - however I can guarantee that you will come away from the day benefitting. They explain exactly what they are looking for in an extremely friendly and professional way and you will definitely look at aspects of your operations in a different way afterwards. It'll help you be honest with yourself in terms of any weaknesses in your business model - speak to Paul and get yourself along. (For the record, I have historically sat on the fence with regards AA Approved Contractor status. The workshop made me realise the real benefits of the scheme, but I have yet to enrol. I definitely benefitted from attending from a business point of view and will undoubtedly go for Arb Approved status at some point in the future. There is no hard sell - I found it a really useful day).

Speak to Prees Heath Forest Nursery - 01948841353

Policed/enforced by whom? What are the possible consequences if not adhered to by the new house owner? The developer is no longer involved, so can't be chased/penalised.

If it's not TPO'd/conservation area I'm pretty sure you can do what you want once building works are finished/signed off. It's a bit of a joke really.

There's a fella selling a tidy looking JS130 for 10k - it's an old sumitomo machine but looks good for the money IMO. Haulage might ruin the job for you though.

Where it could be good would be for running a heavy attachment on a small machine (grinder with own engine etc).

I'd check the spec of the in-tank filter before dropping all the oil to swap it - a lot of the time they are pretty course open mesh, designed to catch large bits of swarf etc that can end up in the system during machine assembly. The majority of important filtration is performed by the easier to access main filter, that should definitely be replaced as stipulated by the manufacturer.

I think a tractor's legal gross train weight is 24 tonnes - if the mog is registered as an agricultural vehicle then it I believe it can legally tow 24 tonnes minus the loaded weight of itself. If it's a commercial vehicle then it will depend on how it is plated.

Extremely niche, extremely tatty lump of scrap a million miles from anywhere. There might be 2 people in the U.K. who could make use of that, both of them on this thread! I'd offer £500 and keep my eye out for something else if it comes to nothing. Stick 'Unimog' in the description and all of a sudden you are dealing with the Crown Jewels apparently!

Give it a couple of pumps of the primer before hot starting.

If you want to use it for hedge cutting then you will have a much better view if front mounted - on the back of a mog you won't be able to see anything. The rear mounted pump off the existing pto is a great idea, but allow a lot of money on hoses and fittings if you have to plumb it upto the front. If the mog is just for hedge work then why not look at direct mounting the machine - don't get too worked up over 3pl and DIN mounts. For less money you can most likely get something fabricated that will mount whatever you end up sourcing much closer to the front (or back if you do choose) of your new toy and will subsequently not stress the overall machine as much.

Just checked, mine are Alliance A360 Forestry, 600 on the back 480 on the front. The bar grips are wearing fast on the road but they are running at 50k usually loaded. The flat spotting when cold is strange - the tractor shakes around until they warm up a bit but then is fine at all speeds. They weren't cheap, but are incredibly tough. I've had no punctures or damage at all, even when mulching. Bits of wire etc still sticks in them if you mulch old fences but they just seem to shrug it off. They were a bitch to fit - had to have tubes to stretch them onto the rims (they aren't particularly wide rims either).

I was offered 'new take off' Agribibs pretty cheap but was told by a couple of people that they have really thin sidewalls. I ended up spending a world of money on some wide (620 I think) crossplys but they are a nightmare for flat spotting (even overnight) and road work is eating them really fast.

That would be ace, cheers Pete! I could really do with not sending a couple of lads with hedge cutters, we are pulled out of the place here and I need all hands on deck...

Nowhere near as much as I thought from the first pic - I thought it was about a foot over! It definitely looks the part! How big is that in comparison to the big yellow GC one that was on your stand at the APF?

Ha ha! This one is really sparse and doesn't need a huge amount off so should be ok, but definitely wants doing ASAP. It's on a building site and needs one side knocking back a bit to get the HERAS fencing in - standard lastminute.com builder's organisational skills kicking in...

The new emissions regs make engine packaging a bit more cumbersome! Is that sticking out past the edge of the trailer or is it an optical illusion Dean?

Contact details might help.... My number is 07970188050. Cheers all!

Hi - I need someone with a tractor mounted hedge flail to side up 400m of thorn in Ashby de la Zouch. Can anyone on here do it, or if not does anyone know someone who can please? Many thanks, Dan.

I think the op is doing the right thing - he's researched the market, knows what he wants and has found a supplier. We live in a global economy - it's easy to source just about anything nowadays from the cheapest source anywhere worldwide. If you are buying a bulk quantity of a product then shipping costs become less relevant. It is going to become harder and harder to compete in the global economy for firms that sell labour intensive products (particularly when those products have no USP).

These guys can make anything Harbrook Engineering - General Engineering and Steel Fabrication

Just remember that once a piece is cut, the crane has it... There is no test lift (the crane driver can't start to lift and simply let the tension off/lower it back to the floor if too heavy). Who's insuring the job if the crane falls over? Is it a contract lift (I would seriously suggest it is if you are new to this)?. You should have a lift plan in place (however basic). The amount of weight a crane can lift is determined largely by the radius of the hook from the slew ring - ideally you know this before the crane even gets to site so you can plan the job safely. Once rigged the driver will be able to tell you what weight he's good for when he has his hook over the piece you want to chop off. Work to half of that weight as a maximum - it is difficult to accurately guess the weight of timber. Start with small pieces and work your way up - as previously mentioned you'll soon get a feel for the weight of timber. If the alarm goes off at any point you have done something wrong - you don't want sirens/flashing lights etc etc! Also remember that timber is incredibly strong under tension - it is amazing how a small uncut sliver will hold a piece of timber to the tree. This is where a driver with tree experience is invaluable - if they keep pulling at a piece that hasn't been completetly severed it will eventually go with a bang that will make everyone on site poo their pants...

I'd do it if you were local - if you want a few pointers give me a ring any time on 07970188050. Cheers Dan

I'd be more worried about going to prison at that speed in a 40!