monkeybusiness

It'd be the hirer's (ie the tree firm's) fault/responsibility if the crane tipped over if it wasn't a contract lift, whether the driver said it was fine or not. The crane driver has no say so as to how big/heavy a piece of timber is - once the climber has fixed the chains, wherever he decides to make the cut determines if the crane falls over or not. The driver can't necessarily control what the climber attaches to the crane, and as it isn't being picked up off the floor (whereby the lift can simply be abandoned if found to be too heavy) once it is cut it is instantly a suspended load, hopefully within the crane's capacity! Likewise if you go for crane hire and the ground gives way, it will fall to your insurance (who may subsequently pursue you for damages if you aren't qualified to draw up lift plans). You are correct in that it is unlikely a driver will purposely make an unsafe lift. Tree dismantles are too much of an unknown quantity to save a couple of hundred quid on the cheapest hire possible though IMO. If you've ever heard the crane alarm going off (even just a little bit) then you are sailing very close to the wind - you should never hear that noise if the lift is planned and undertaken correctly.

I think it largely comes down to LOLER tbh. A crane isn't necessarily designed for lifting people (although some are equipped for that specific work, but with dedicated man baskets) so for a start don't need to be subjected to 6 monthly inspections. Crane hire and contract lifts are two very different ways of booking/paying to have a crane on a job. If you go for basic crane hire, you are essentially responsible for the entire job (draw up the lift plan, specify the crane, blah blah blah) - if the crane tips over/the load falls etc then you should have the insurance in place to cover the issue (the crane company will seek damages from you for a start, before the householder who has a crane through their roof wants their house rebuilding at your expense etc). If you have basic crane hire then you may be able to ride the hook, as it is on your head (providing the driver is willing). If you go for a contract lift (which you really should, unless you know (and can defensibly prove you know) what you are on about) then all of the risk/insurance falls to the crane company. For the simple reason that the crane/lifting chains etc aren't designed and tested to lift people they are likely to refuse to lift you unfortunately.

It’s a joke with the police - as soon as you cross an imaginary county line the issue drops off the radar as it is into another force’s patch. It’s amazing any thieves ever get caught (I think it is only luck when they do tbh)!

I don’t know anything about L200s I’m afraid. If they are manual hubs (ie you have to physically get out and turn something on the hub itself by hand) then I doubt you’d get any sort of indication on the dash though.

Check your free wheel hubs are locking. Lock them whilst in 2wd and get underneath - you shouldn’t be able to turn the front prop shaft by hand if they are both locking correctly.

Yeah, my rotate is left thumb. Left trigger switches between tilt and extra service (ie grab) operated by right thumb. You’ll want rotate more than tilt when using the grab IME.

Sorry - mine cycles between the tilt, not rotate. All good either way!

Exactly the same as my Rototilt/Takeuchi - ace set up!! Wait until you drive a digger without it, your thumbs will become very confused....

Does that include the Engcon?... Do you switch between tilt and grab/extra service using the Kubota’s original joysticks? Who supplied/fitted?

That’s a cracker!!!

Or the weight of a 200 that cuts like a 200?!...

Looks a great saw - I just hope they get it right from the start. Their early electronic carbs were terrible and they did nothing to acknowledge it - I definitely wouldn’t rush in to buy any new Stihl tech again unfortunately.

Can probably get some in the morning. What sort of sizes are you after?

Where in Cheshire are you? I’ve got some beech and oak near nantwich if of interest?

I’ve just read this thread from the start - pretty interesting to begin with! From what I can see I don’t think retaliation is a good idea, you have won the battle. It is also worth bearing in mind that neighbourly disputes have to be disclosed to property buyers at time of sale, so your actions would potentially devalue your own place as much as his...

I hate these posts, really sorry to hear it pal.

Just be careful when turning/reversing/going up/down hills if you have a front overhang as it is amazing how close to the back of a van the trailer’s load can get when above the drawbar...

Morris Buftons in Ludlow are really helpful - ‭01584 872244‬

I’d imagine getting an architect involved with a suggested chicken hut in the woods has put the planners on full defensive mode, and the TO is going to pull every angle to counter what appears to be a foot in the door for future development. Or am I being cynical?

That’s a very kind offer, thank you.

Hi - a mate suffered a serious break in in South Cheshire last Tuesday night (27th March) and had the following power tools stolen - 1. STIHL MS880 48” BAR (spare 36” bar also taken) S/N 181034060 2. STIHL 084 25” BAR 3. HUSQVARNA 390XP 36” BAR 4. HUSQVARNA 390XP 28” BAR S/N 201410000080 5. HUSQVARNA 372XPG 20” BAR 6. STIHL MS441 20” BAR S/N 171534211 7. HUSQVARNA 560XPG 18” BAR S/N 2012130038 8. HUSQVARNA 560XP 18” BAR 9. HUSQVARNA 346XPG 15” BAR S/N 20114500234 10. HUSQVARNA 346XPG 15” BAR S/N 20120100240 11. HUSQVARNA 346XP 15” BAR 12. HUSQVARNA 550XP 13” BAR S/N 20161300190 13. STIHL 026 15” BAR 14. STIHL 026 15” BAR (plastic “026 tag” missing from the top) 15. STIHL MS200T 14” BAR S/N 170098247 16. STIHL MS200T 12” BAR 17. STIHL MS200T 12” BAR 18. STIHL 020T 14” BAR 19. HUSQVARNA T540XP 12” BAR 20. STIHL MS211 16” BAR 21. STIHL 020AV 16” BAR HEDGECUTTERS AND POLESAWS 22. STIHL HS45 24” BAR 23. STIHL HS81R 30” BAR S/N 175940322 24. STIHL HS81T 30” BAR S/N 176639882 25. STIHL KM131 KOMBI UNIT WITH ANGLED HEDGECUTTER AND STRIMMER ATTACHMENT 26. STIHL HT101 POLESAW S/N 297634206 27. STIHL HT75 POLESAW S/N 67952532 (CHAINSAW HEAD HAD JUBILEE CLIP REPAIR) BLOWERS 28. STIHL BR600 MAGNUM S/N 289778131 29. STIHL BR86 S/N 283523220 30. HUSQVARNA 570BTS (BRAND NEW) They also took a transit tipper which was later found burnt out near Farndon. I would imagine the thieves are working out of the Wrexham/Whitchurch England/Wales border area (but that is largely speculation on my part at present). If anyone has any possible information relating to any of this kit, or more directly to the thieves themselves please contact me in strictest confidence on 07970188050. This type of crime (and those who support it by buying the stolen equipment) destroys people’s livelihoods - those machines belong to a guy who is no different to any of us on here, and have been paid for through years of hard graft. It wasn’t undertaken by amateurs who got lucky - this was a professional crew and we are all at risk from people like them... Please please please let me know if you hear anything!

Fury wouldn’t stand a chance against AJ - he is the most overhyped waste of space out there. He has only ever fought one decent opponent (I’m not sure how he actually got the Klitschko fight tbh) and only won that because his opponent uncharacteristically didn’t turn up on the night. I can only imagine Klitschko didn’t prepare as he expected to easily walk through Fury, but ended up frustrated by TF’s awkward style. The fact that Fury wouldn’t honour a rematch suggests that he knows he wouldn’t stand a chance next time out. Personally it wouldn’t bother me if he didn’t box again, but the reality is he needs to be proven to be nothing more than a hyped up lummox by anyone half-decent to shut him and all of the Tyson Fury fanboys up who will always claim he is the best boxer out there.

It’s a Land Rover - think of the highest number you know, double it and that will be somewhere near the owner’s perceived value.

Parker looks decent but there isn’t anyone around that can beat AJ in my opinion - I can’t see it going the distance.

I wouldn’t personally drive on the road with that chipper on the front links - the tractor and linkage may be capable of lifting 3.5 tonnes but that doesn’t mean it is safe/mechanically sympathetic (the front axle and tyres will take a hammering, and you may not have a great deal of control). You could counter-balance it with something really heavy on the back but it’s always worth remembering that tractors are built up of various components held together with rings of bolts... The other thing to consider is leverage - the chipper is 2 (ish) tonnes centred a long way from the tractor. That’s a lot different to a 2 tonne (or possibly even a 3.5 tonne) weight block close in! If it looks and feels wrong I’d suggest you forget what it says in the manual.