Big 'Ammer

Here's a bigger one! 29.5m / 97' Ash. Rotten and a crack running up the stem. LV lines 10' to rear. Over and down the right of the lime, crown dropped in to left of the sycamore at the back. Luverly. :biggrin:

Not the biggest tree, but big enough to fill the available space. Phone post, lines and fence to right, stop tap to left, pergola and hedges to the top.

Reminds me of the of 'The Wicker Man' ! Its a cheap high seat for deer culling at £47. Provided theres no woodworm .... !

Thats good to hear, as I am thinking of changing to Vodaphone to get one of these gadgets. The signal in my house is virtually none existant on any network, but outside its full.

Fell the lot Jon, it will only get DED next year. Have a fresh start.

Why overcomplicate things? If its only small light bits and only a few of them, sling them and zip 'em down the tail of your climbing line to the groundy! But don't tell anyone you've done it, or you'll get into trouble! :laugh1:

Beaver Plant, Stamford Bridge. 01759 372552

Been following this thread with interest. Different gobs for different jobs IMO. There are circumstances where a larger gob that moves the fulcrum and COG are more suitable than a traditional gob and vice versa. A lot depends upon the space in which you have to fell the tree and the amount of pull you can get with a top line, and also the angle of pull. The amount of back lean will dictate how its done, and also how you use your wedges. Are the wedges in there to stop the saw nipping up and just a few taps will move the tree, or are you intending to drive the tree over with multiple wedges and progressive higher lifting? The equipment you have at your disposal will influence how the tree is felled. If you only have a pulling rope and a transit you're going to tackle the job a bit differently than if you have a huge winch with a spade on. One of the main things I consider in how far to put the gob in, is how rotten is the tree! Don't think anyones mentioned that so far! As an arb business, most of the large trees we fell have something wrong with them. The depth of the gob is often dictated by where the most sound wood is, position of buttresses etc. With these sort of trees it all comes down to experience and judgement where, how deep, angle of gob, height of hinge, species of wood etc. How much to cut, how much to hold and where? Does the hinge need chasing on one side so the crown turns where you want it? The tree will tell you the right way to fell it.

Nice to see the price increase wasn't for nothing then ..... Have a nice time Justin.

Several years ago I contacted NPTC to ask if I could use their 'Qualified Workforce' logo in promotional material. They said it was fine to do so provided that the workforce were NPTC qualified and there was a letter to sign and return to say you would not abuse this permission.

Looks tidy Pete. Is the chip deflector fixed or does it fold down flat? That tiled front wind deflector above the cab must weigh a bit though?

Some on this site, any good? http://www.exmod.co.uk/wheels

Turned ours over on the 200's two weeks before xmas when we got the first lot of snow. You'll know when to do it when they won't idle without cutting out. In practice, I find it needs to be more like less than +5C all day to need changing over.

I use the ali bullet type on a plain rope or clip a carbine hook onto a spliced eye. I don't really like the retrival ball type stoppers, find they get get stuck more than the old bullets. Your plastic one will work fine. ....but I bet you could just cut the neck off a suitable sized empty plastic bottle and use to the same effect.

Trust for PL, EL, Tools and Hired in Plant. Very good service indeed when I needed it and easy to deal with over the phone. However, changed to NFU with the vehicles, due to individual drivers ages and circumstances, where Trust were unable to offer the cover I needed. My local NFU office were also very helpful. I value service far above shaving the last few quid off.

2 feet.

No Bob, its not a flask.....

good job you were the one up the tree!

Why didn't they back the chipper down the garden as well as the trailer, then?

Save your knuckles, patience and your limited tools. Take it to an engineer who will soon remove them with their decent tools. Buy some better tools so you can easily remove the new studs next time.

If it has a heavy lean into the area you want to fell it, you will not need much directional control from the hinge. You may want to consider letterboxing the hinge to get the centre cut out to help prevent barberschairing and also squaring the buttresses off tidy to prevent the sides tearing and buttresses and roots being pulled up as it goes over. Leave 3 points of contact and then cut the holding wood at the back. Sharp saw is essential, ratchet straps a good idea also, depends on the lean and weight etc...

Who by? If the operator is properly trained and certificated and you have an acceptable system in place for lone working, then it shouldn't be an issue, imo. Its no different to using any other piece of equipment alone.

Done that with one of mine too. Spent a while faffing about with new diapragms, adjusting the tune etc, and it never just ran right. Bought a brand new old model carb and robbed the side casing from an old saw, as the carb screw holes are not in the same place. Runs like new.

If your stepson legally qualifies as one of your dependants, lives with you, and he is employed in agriculture, then I would imagine that alone would qualify you to occupy the property. Take advice from a solicitor.