Mesterh
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Everything posted by Mesterh
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Really? I just couldnt be doing with that at all tbh. Plus RSI from starting the saw constantly could also be a problem. If there is going to be quite awhile from one cut to the next I will switch it off but generally its running most of the time im in the tree, never ever caused a problem. Plus its not always best for the life of the engine to swtich it off after its been used hard, ticking over for a minute or two will cool it down a bit. Anyway if it works for you then no worries.
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So do you switch the saw off after every cut?
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I thought Stihl and Husky insist that you have a shop to sell from so the above couldnt be done. If it was truly a safety issue then fair enough for chainsaws etc but not for a box of files and some chain oil. I also dont think it helps your local small dealers as they probably cant get such a good rate when buying in bulk from the manufactures so will always be more expensive than you big retailers. Its strange they way you dont see dewalt,hitachi,bosch,makita etc etc (who make some fairly dangerous power tools) pushing this type of online sales policy idea.
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Thats doesnt sound very good. What does the engine sound like? Does it run well on full revs with no load? does it tick over smoothly?
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Looks like Meripilus to me.
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Cheers for the review and info The above in bold doesn't sound very good at all though. The early 020's had the exact same problem! Thats progress for you.
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Only a total idiot would do that.
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This type of thing has cropped up on many occasions in one guise or another. I have yet to hear of someone not getting paid out by defaulting somehow on their insurance. I have asked insurance companies to try and clear up the not complying with HSE not being insured but funnily enough they never seem to take an interest:001_rolleyes:
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[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J6ZWlDks0nQ]Coldplay - Paradise (Official) - YouTube[/ame]
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The size and access of 99% of customers gardens. There is feck all you can do about that.
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Well since this is Arbtalk and not Treetalk I would that we are all Arborists, so read the rules:deal: or the police will be on the way to turf you out:post:
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A manual for the kohler engine. Kohler Engine Manaual.pdf
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Who else are we supposed to call! Ghostbusters or the A-Team?. Come on, being a copper is like being a nurse,doctor, fire service etc etc, it's a vocational job. Anyone there just for the money shouldn't be. No doubt the police do have a very tough job but they don't exactly help themselves alot of the time to win public favour which they really, really do need if they are to carry out thier job efficiently. I bet a simple explanation of why they did what they did and not a "it woulda been worse for you and your brother if I was there" idiotic attitude would have probably been a much better way to go.
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You can buy purpose made repair putty/epoxy for plastic fuel tanks. something like these. [ame=http://www.amazon.co.uk/Petro-patch-Plastic-Metal-repair/dp/B002YTLTDM]Petro patch, Plastic and Metal fuel tank repair: Amazon.co.uk: Car & Motorbike[/ame] Or, in the past I have used a soldering iron to melt the plastic if its a very small crack and also used the epoxy steel putty which you get in most car shops for around £6.
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The key word there being 'abroad' I think I would give the job up if we had to stack brash. I hardly ever bother stacking it behind the chipper, I would rather the chipper ran with nothing going through it for a bit than stack and chip in one hit.
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Get yourself up in a MEWP, that will make you realise being tied into a tree is much, much better! I would say keep all you climbing gear very simple, you don't want krabs and pulleys rattling about everywhere if your still learning to trust the gear. A side strop, and a prussik with one krab on your main line will make things very simple and very easy to check. You can then move on to the more technical stuff that will make your life easier but don't leave that too late like me or you will never get used to it. Good luck and persevere.
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I very much doubt it for brash but it would work for timber if you have a grab wagon. Brash takes up too much space and there is no way I would stack it, its way quicker to chip it as it moves imo, plus there is never enough room to stack it anyway.
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Sawdust can get trapped and build up between the metering diaphragm and the diaphragm cover. This pushes on the diaphragm opening the inlet valve which allows fuel into the cylinder. Well happened on my 046 and was easily sorted.
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Its all to do with age. When you get older you will realise not to swing at them a second time.
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Its the newer type. I will do as you say and keep the oem until runs v poor.
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Crossers are expensive! I was hoping to buy one for under £500! No fecking chance
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The tester is only a cheapo gunson but tried earlier on a 026 which is old but a good saw it read 160. The 3120 is a runner but was cold. I think i will order a new aftermarket pot and piston as it does/will need one and then try a comparison.
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Made me start looking at buying another crosser. Havent had one for 20 years!
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Cheers for the info.
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If your buying a big saw buy a stihl. The reliability factor is a big plus. A big saw breaking down is not what you want, it will screw the job right up and cost a packet too. 066/660.
