Chris Sheppard

Quite like these two. [ame] [/ame] [ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mAqJ0R-EkZg[/ame]

Wide Open Throttle

Yeah they can Matty, they just won't admit it It's not my cup of tea, but the odd times I've used one it did what it needed to, but as others have said, just not as rapidly as something like a 346.

I do, mainly just with needle and thread (buttons or when saw kegs split) but can just about cope with sewing machine if I have to for major surgery.

Heard on the radio just now there's over 120,000 signatures on some petition for JC to keep his job. Whether or not it makes any difference, I don't know.

Think you've just Top Trumped everyone in the whole thread Stevie That is cool

I'm all for stuff like this, I just don't know if it could work with the modern population's mindset. I've not really followed it, but remeber there being talk of trying to release wolves in Scotland a few years back - at least there's a few less people up there that it stood half a chance of working. At least stuff like Lynx, Wolves, Beaver etc are native, not like all those foreign pheasants that get released each year......

My suspiscion is that due to the landowner thinking someone's going to pay him to come ad tidy it up, he told the guy felling them to get them down as cheaply as possible, i.e. switch saws off when they hit the floor and stop the clock ticking. We've all worked for one's like it, usually just the once

I was told (whether rightly or wrongly) that it reduces the risk of the saw getting taken with the stem, which sort of made sense in my head. Also, by leaving as little holding it at the back as you deem necessary, you're spending less time in a dangerous position - i.e snip the back and retreat

Mine doesn't notice new saws but knows how many and if another motorbike makes it's way into the garage without ever setting foot in there

I just make sure it's something like tidied up before she get's in

Rather than getting the machine in close and risking it rolling towards it if anything slips when pushing, I'd be more inclined to stick a long line on it and pull it over.

If you're to buy them as they are in the photos, leave him to sit on them for a while and then he'll realise when nobody else is prepared to pay either, he can't have his cake and eat it. Unless you are fairly confident dismantling big hardwood crowns, they look like an easy way to a trip to A&E.

Don't know if I'd change for sure, but do sometimes wonder how different things might have been if I'd gone and studied Mechanical Engineering like I was originaly going to. I don't have the same passion for it as I once did, and as much as I find myself moaning about tree work, there's worse jobs to get up to on a morning.

I liked the extra length/weight out front on the 6 cyl with a roofmounted crane. With my old 1164, if you were a bit overzealous on full reach you could lift the front, though it was worse when loading pointing up hill. Worked with a county 7600 four skidder briefly on one estate; that would wriggle it's way through fairly tight stands but never felt quite as robust as the equal wheeled ones.

I'm not convinced. Surely a chain of X number of links should be the same whether husky or stih of the same size? Especially if the dealer is making up the loops themselves? The last stihl chain I fitted to a husky was a bit long too, though when we held it up to the old chain they had the same number of links as that was the first thing we thought was wrong - it was a bit odd really. It wasn't as bad as the OP, but it definitely used a lot more adjustment than normal for a new chain.

The last couple of terriers we've had have been patterdales and they've been great. Can be quite headstrong as a breed and not always the most sociable with other dogs (though our current one lives pretty harmoniously with a husky of all things) but usually good with people.

I was always pleased with them. If I remember righly, that pair were on my old 130 for a couple of years and then ended up on my 90 for the rest of the time. I think they're oil shocks and were adjustable too. Fairly expensive, but not s dear as Old Man Emu.

Koni Heavy Track. Last set of rears I had lasted something like 5 or 6 years and I'm not entirely sure they were knackered when they got replaced.

I get that now - just a bit late realising it

oops

I'd type "mower repair exeter" or "mower repair Lyme Regis" into google Doing the first one, if your website starts with a B and has a green bit at the top with yellow writing, I'd say whatever you're doing works as you're at the top

If you've already got the truck and some wood to go at, then what's the harm in giving it a go? If you haven't then It's very easy to convince yourself it's a good idea. If it was as easy as going and knocking a few big sticks over, delivering them and then gathering up the firewood on the way home, don't you think everyone would be doing it? By the time you've bought the wood standing, there's the first big chunk gone out of what you're left with, then there's the cost involved in felling it, then getting it out, breakdowns/recovery/punctures, and then when the mill turn round and say they don't need it at the mo or X down the road's got some better for 10p a tonne cheaper etc etc. Admitedly you're dealing with less numbers of people day to day, but there's still some that will try and make it hard work for you. If you really want to give it a go, then why not, but if it were me I'd hang on to the Arb stuff for a while til I was sure.

Best reply so far. Not a 110, but on my old 130 I thought I'd "improve" it by going from the standard twin spring setup and anti roll bar, to a set of 2" longer springs and shocks. It didn't sit down mega low when loaded, but it did wallow about a lot, especially when I had to ditch the anti roll bar. When it articulated a lot, the extra length of the shocks meant the anti roll bar wasn't long enough (or in the right position maybe) and it flipped the links over so that next time it compressed a lot, it pushed the brackets straight off the chassis! If I was to do it again, I'd stay standard height but HD springs (either LR or something like Bearmach (the Britpart ones were OK for a while but started sagging after a year or so), keep the helper springs and get some decent shocks (nothing by Britpart or Terrafirma - it's a work truck, not a pay and play toy). I had Koni Heavy Track shocks on my 130 and more laterly my 90 and they outlasted and out performed anything else I've tried. Plus I'd keep the anti roll bar too. EDIT: Forgot to add, have used a standard 110 3500kg tipper that was all as standard suspension wise and it handled weight really well, even when we were a little tiny bit over enthusiastic with chips.....

Change the record, please, it's getting tiresome. Obviously everyone's entitled to their opinion, but just because you think it doesn't work, doesn't mean that it doesn't.