Rob D
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Everything posted by Rob D
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T I don't think so - Tsumura bars are made by a different company in Japan but they are also judged to be very good quality bars - pretty sure the Oregon carving bars are made by Tsumura. They have 'Made in Japan' on the sleeve. The solid Sugihara bars have the same finish which looks really hard wearing - metallic with a hard clear laquer? The laminated Sugi bars are painted but do look well made as well... time will tell!
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Just got my first shipment of Sugihara bars from Japan. I got these in because I heard that they were very well built and were some of the longest lasting bars... as per this quote: “Most loggers wear out chain saw bars with their chainsaws. I have worn out chainsaws with my Sugihara chain saw bar.” Which is no doubt exaggeration but I'm pretty sure these are some quality kit. They supply 80% of the Japanese pro market and have been manufacturing bars since 1957. I'll be listing these on the website soon. Jonsie is taking a load if you want to see them in the flesh and I'll be looking to get them into other dealers as well. I've gone for the laminated bars up to and inc 20" then the solid pro bars inc 25" to 46" for both Husky and Stihl mounts. Pricewise they are just over the price of the Stihl equivalent.
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I've got plenty of bits here that would do it but you'd have to come over and pick one out.
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That's a big old lump of wood! Really you need a pretty monster set up for something like that.... if it's 6ft then a 7ft bar wouldn't do it you'd need an 84" bar or even something like a large double ended setup with a powerhead at each end... I've got some 72" double ended bars here but that's their length in total - they would mill around 56" wide... you can use these with an 880 and a helper handle with roller on the other end or x2 880 mount chainsaws. This would be more practical but you'd have to trim the sides down a bit.
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Always seemed to be conifers I underpriced - after they've been topped a few times they seem to contain so much material and hard to judge exactly how much there is to shift on a big un.... never lost money but broke even a few times....
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Looks really smart - will be interesting to see if it moves much as it dries but looks a nice job.
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I have x4 of these bars up for grabs. Usual price is £236-80+vat but these are £185-00+vat. Woodlandpro bars are simply rebranded cannon bars. £50-00+vat off! Go here: Products for the category: Special Offers These bars for MS880, 08,088,084,070,075,076,090 And (for these bars only and only as part of this offer) buy any chain from the custom chain selector here Custom chain loops and you will get another chain exactly the same absolutely free! But you have to buy it from the custom chain selector. The chain for this bar is .404 .063 122 drive links. That gives you up to another £50-00+vat off. There are only x4 bars and once they're gone this offer will not be repeated (in the short term anyway). And as an arbtalk member you'll get 4% disc off the total and also free delivery.
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In this case it's the wrong timber for the job - beech just does not last long outdoors. You'd be far better off with oak or cedar if you can get it. Beech is really a timber for indoors only.
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I have Stein chainsaw boots - I think they were £180-00 at last apf.... Prob wear them 30 hours a week. They'll last a good few months yet as well. Worth the money.
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Not sure why he said that ref the oiler - it doesn't really make a difference to oiling what pitch the chain is. As said .325 is standard on the MS250. You can buy a bar, chain and sprocket off my website Chainsawbars ? bars, chains and chainsaw accessories although the postage may be expensive for S.Ireland. I can ship up to 25kg for £25-00+vat but whether it's 1kg or 25kg that's what it costs me.
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That got there quick! I did put the chain around the bar but included some extra drive links and joining links in case the chain needs altering but that's the drive link count I was given .404 .063 194 drive links! Yep that bar is a big un and extra wide in the middle to help keep it stiff. Looking forward to see it in operation Stevie!
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Good set of pics and vids and also that looks to be a nice bit of walnut to boot!
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I find lumbering jack the best bit - always gives me a chuckle. I like the way the writer weaves current issues into the storyline.
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All good stuff Ian I hope you're getting good money for them!
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You just have to move on from customers like this... She's overspent on holiday and suddenly realised she can't afford it... I tend to charge 50% upfront now and 50% prior to delivery and people seem happy to pay that. I thought I had a cracking order a few months ago for 4x tables, 6x wall hangings, 4x coffee tables - but the deposit never came through.... it's a good way to sort the genuine customers out. It's frustrating but I'm sure you'll be able to sell that set for the same money at some point in the near future. Certainly not too expensive - looks priced spot on to me.
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Yep do not sell it cheap as if working they are a great milling saw. Super torque and no harder to use than an 880. There are a few differences in the mount and what bar they take and not all bars for the MS880 will fit that saw. I can't remember the exact differences but bars such as GB, Cannon and some Stihl will fit both 090 and 880 mount...
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Looked good josh apart from the weather
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Sorry but that's not true - it's pretty easy drilling a bar with a good quality drill bit. [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eqo6tyJIUoo&list=UU9K0KfLNH84tuWi2VjlSlCg&index=4&feature=plcp]chainsawbars.co.uk - how to drill bar for Granberg auxillary oiler G801A - YouTube[/ame] If you really need those extra 2" I'd be tempted to go for a solid nose bar and additional oiler.... I've not tried drilling through the sprocket but I'd say prob would not work and you'd damage the sprocket... could be wrong though!
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Very nice Kim - good use of the root.
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Sometimes when the saw is cutting well the chip waste seems to clog the bar.... can clear it by gentle rev while pushing the chain on a sharp edge to help it round. Once it starts running it clears itself. Have you got the oiler turned up to max? I have the oiler set to max on all my saws.... it needs to be for efficient cutting. You should be filling the oil tank every time you use a tank of fuel.
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Vat may be one reason for some of the difference. Also bear in mind cheap quotes sound great but then you find the job never gets done or gets done badly.... You say no real hazards but "chop them down onto road" - is a pretty big hazard i.e. the road. You need proper systems in place so that risk is minimal and people that know what they're doing. Ask to see proof of insurance and certification.
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Very sad news - sorry to hear that.
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Where'd you get that bar from Peter? The zebra bars are a budget option. They work fine but do not last as long as the Cannon/Oregon equivalent. It's a cheaper way to get into carving. However the recent batch last sent from the factory was minus the oiler holes. Without the correct gear to drill the oiler holes the importer of these found it easier and more efficient to grind them. So the green holes are oiler holes and the red holes are the universal holes for tensioning the bar (although on some saws one of these can also act as an oiler hole as well).
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...I've found with a solid nose that it seems to get quite hot if you have the chain tension correct so you seem to then have to run the chain a little looser than is ideal. A 25" bar on an MS660 there is power there in excess but if you used a 36" solid nose bar I think you'd see more of a difference. I stock all the solid nose bars but have sold the grand total of..... zero! They are not popular. Personally both in practice and in theory a sprocket nose bar should always out perform a solid nose bar.... but that's not to say a solid nose bar won't do the job....
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Yep it's an open offer - I'll put it up on my sponsored forum. The zebra bars are not as good as the oregon or cannon carving bars but they're a cheaper way to try your hand at carving. register on my site Chainsawbars ? bars, chains and chainsaw accessories
