Rob D

Cracking bench Si - very original. Put some pics up of when it's in situ

I still think the precision grinder is one of the most under rated sharpening tools.... When touching up it almost gives a polished finish to the tooth. A good way of using in the workshop is just to buy a cheap ebay jumper pack as I've not found a 240V transformer.... They don't last all that long but a handy thing to have around anyway... 12V COMPACT JUMP START STARTER BOOSTER CAR VAN WITH AIR COMPRESSOR | eBay

The only other thing with this test was that really you should have a go with all the different file sizes i.e. 5/32", 3/16" and 7/32" so x4 of each to see which came out the best. I'll perhaps do this the next time round. Also I'll advertise the test well in advance as a catchment of 30 people would be better.

I do have the Save Edge files in now but won't be on my website until mid next week so hang in there! As re vamping all those areas of the website. I liked the Save Edge the best - as you say there's something a bit raw about them - they give the most chew off the tooth! The first few strokes on the tooth it can be 'catchy' but then it seems to find it's place and rapidly removes metal. And in the endurance test (thanks Morten:thumbup:) it came out tops as well. But I think if you like a smoother file with less bite the Vallorbe/Oregon ones are the way to go. I'll see about doing some more tests soon!

As Big J says you really want at least an 80cc to 90cc saw for the flip and rip... that and a 20" or maybe 22" bar and it'll work very very well.... The one I currently have will be on sale shortly as I look to take delivery of the first production batch.... but I'm not keen on selling it yet... there's something about this mill and what it'll do and I need to put it through it's paces. I'll have some vids in a month or so of just what it is capable of. I want to try lowering the saw down into a log for morticing or cutting sections out of logs etc.

And thanks to all who took part - I'll maybe think about doing another test in the future when I've recovered from this one!

It's a tricky one.... If that's all you will be milling and the diameters are all about the same and you also have a way of extracting and loading I'd say a small bandsaw would be best.... Chainsaw mills are great but for larger projects like this where you'll prob want to make cladding etc then a bandsaw would be best IMO

Some info on who makes what To get real facts about how and where files are made is pretty much impossible.... You get no replies from e-mailing the big companies direct. From what I gather about chainsaw files (which is not based on fact more what I’ve heard). The Swiss Vallorbe factory have always made Oregon files. And they now make Stihl files – BUT – I noticed that some of the Stihl files I had were marked with black ink at the end of the file and some were engraved near the tang end..... So Stihl have their files made in different places. I suspect the ones with the black writing on the end are made by Pferd (I have some Pferd files and they have black writing on the end) and the engraved ones are Vallorbe – have e-mailed the factories a few times to get real facts but no replies to date.... Pferd make the Stihl EZ file so it makes sense they prob make some of the Stihl files as well. I did get some Pferd files in about 18 months ago – but they cost a ruddy fortune compared to other brands as you have to go through a distributer.... and as the distributer does not carry stock or sell that many it’s a painful process to order them. It’s a shame as Pferd seem to manufacture a wide range of chainsaw files and guides... see pages 24 onwards here http://www.pferd.com/images/WZH_21_201_72dpi_en.pdf but they will not allow someone to just import the chainsaw filing equipment – you have to go through someone who is a main Pferd distributer.... And even though the files may come from the same factory they can be made to different grades of quality depending on how much they are being paid - so just because they come out of the same factory does not make them equal!

One member kindly did a test to see how the files kept their edge: Endurance Test Set-up Stihl RSC chain (virtually unused), mounted in a vice. One tooth ground down to the marking on the top plate (6 mm material removed). Each file was oiled (using WD-40) before filing, and the number of file strokes was counted. Results First tooth: "Save Edge": 83 strokes. "Vallorbe":102 strokes. "Oregon": 125 strokes. "Stihl": 145 strokes. These results gives an objective reading of the efficiency of the files, and confirm the subjective findings, that I provided to you in my first test results.

Breakdown of results and testers comments Best – Save Edge – 4 points Pretty good – Vallorbe – 3 points Ok – Stihl – 2 points Last – Oregon – 1 point Best – Save Edge, a clear No1 – 4 points - nice grippy file, takes off loads of metal Pretty good - Stihl – 3 points - not as good as above OK – Vallorbe – 2 points Last – Oregon – 1 point Gotta say that the last two were pretty much the same and suspect they are from the same factory It was a tough choice for top place mate. Best – Oregon – 4 points - removed the most metal on each stroke Pretty good – Vallorbe - 3 points - slightly less aggressive than the above but more consistent over time Ok – Save Edge – 2 points - similar to shiny tang but began to skid a bit after several cutters Last - Stihl – 1 point - took the least off on each stroke and tended to skid more than the others Best – Oregon – 4 points - really good - smooth and efficient from the first strokey! easy fave straight off Pretty Good – Stihl – 3 points - started off a bit chattery but settled well Ok – Vallorbe – 2 points - just slow Last – Save Edge – 1 point - chattery as hell - might settle down eventually - hated it 1st place – Oregon – 4 points - good smooth action and most polished/ smoothest result. 2nd place, Stihl and Save Edge – 2.5 points each. Not as smooth as shiny end, and a courser finnish to the tooth. ( i could not tell these apart) 4th place – Vallorbe -1 point - Coarse finish and the filing action nowhere as good or smooth as the others. A file is a file and testing was a bit daunting. I took no note of marks, bunched em on bench and tooth by tooth mixed and matched, all the while ranking them in order and verifying as I went double checking, trying a file again. What do you actually want from a file? Coarse and quick action or smooth minimal swarf? Left it a while did test again as above bunched on bench and got same results. So am happy I’ve done it independently. I use a husky combi guage with rollers on and currently use windsor files from a job lot I got off ebay a few years back. I’m a thrifty file user and make them last. Clean them after a days use rubbing them with chalk stone and brushing off, etc 1st – Save Edge – 4 points 2nd – Oregon – 3 points 3rd – Vallorbe – 2 points 4th – Stihl – 1 point Results for the file test are. Best – Save Edge – 4 points Second – Vallorbe – 3 points Third – Oregon – 2 points Worst – Stihl – 1 point The second and third were pretty much the same. I put them this way round and one of the lads who works for me (chief sharpener) put them the other way but said the same. Best and last seemed very obvious. Also, best was only best because it took a lot off efficiently but was possibly a bit too vicious. Last was bad cos all the filings stuck to the file and made it 'slippy' Best: Save Edge – (10/10) – 4 points Pretty Good: Vallorbe (8/10) – 3 points OK: Oregon (5/10) – 2 points Last: Stihl (3/10) – 1 point I've given the chainsaw files a try out. My results are: 1st (best) – Vallorbe – 4 points 2nd – Oregon – 3 points 3rd – Save Edge – 2 points 4th (last) – Stihl – 1 point Best- Stihl - 4 points Pretty good- Save Edge – 3 points Ok- Vallorbe – 2 points Last- Oregon – 1 point Best – Save Edge – 4 points - very aggressive and quick. Pretty good – Stihl – 3 points - Almost as good. Ok – Vallorbe – 2 points Last – Oregon – 1 point. The worst by some degree – it felt half blunt straight from the packet. Best - Shiny tang – Vallorbe – 4 points Pretty Good - Shiny tip – Oregon – 3 points OK - No marking – Save Edge – 2 points Last - Black tip – Stihl – 1 point Notes: 1. The first three files were effective at removing material from the cutters; the fourth file did not seem to bite like the others. 2. The shiny tang file removed the material effectively, fast and smooth; leaving a sharp and precise cutter. 3. The Shiny tip and no marking file were very similar in effectiveness. 4. The Black tip file seemed to clog up faster than the rest; it seemed not able to rid itself of the filings. 5. I've only used each file a couple of times each, the real deciding factor for me, on which file I would buy is the longevity. 6. I tried the files on both Stihl and Oregon chains, All the files seem to cut more effectively on the Oregon chains than on the Stihl ones; I don't know whether this due to the condition of the chains or what they are made of, I would like to investigate further. Just had a sharpen up using all 4 files, and my thinking is as follows, worst to best - marked tang, unmarked, shiny tip and black tip. Best – Stihl – 4 points Pretty Good – Oregon – 3 points Ok – Save Edge – 2 points Last – Vallorbe – 1 point

Ok - we have 13 results out of 18 which is not all that bad... I've checked over them and they should be accurate but knowing me File test results Just thought a simple points system would work the best so: Best = 4 points Pretty good = 3 points Not bad = 2 points Last = 1 point The files on test were Save Edge – a new brand from the States (although does say made in Portugal on the files!), Vallorbe, Oregon, Stihl. 1st place – Save Edge with 38.5 points. Some people did not like it but this file is the most aggressive and removes the most material per stroke (see endurance test). 2nd Place tied – Vallorbe and Oregon with 32 points - smooth filing and consistent results 4th Place – Stihl with 27.5 points -a little disappointing from the market leaders although scored first by a couple of testers. So which file was which? Unmarked was – Save Edge files info found here and I'll be selling these soon as they did well. I like their raw aggressive material removal and they keep their edge Save Edge | Home of the sharpest files in the business. Shiny tang was – Vallorbe – found here. A major supplier of files and they have always made Oregon files http://www.vallorbe.com/Standard.php?p=530&m=4&l=3# Shiny end was – Oregon (made by Vallorbe) – found here OREGON brand Saw Chain Round Files for sharpening chainsaw chain Black end was – Stihl – Files are made by Pferd and Vallorbe?? Neither/both? See further posts for more info on Stihl files.

I think that's what I'll do for next time - do a paint dip - this time I found it easier to get a kit together in one hit and pack it so no chance of anything getting mixed up....

I'm not taking it personally morten as really I'm sure it's just down to time pressures and work more than anything else.

That's a good point although the only trouble with changing the coding around is it'll more than likely confuse me! I'll maybe do another test in a few months time and figure out an easier way to do it.... I thought the having to buy 1 file a good method as it shows some commitment to have to put in all your details etc. ... It would be good to have a faster way of grinding the engraved names of files off and marking them.... I'll keep an eye out of how to do this quicker and also a faster and easier way to package them. I didn't think about the sending of them in that files are long and brittle and so take a lot of protection!

Ok I've started collating the results. Currently I have 9 results in, have been contacted by 2 people to say they haven't had a chance to test them yet and no contact from 6 people! 1 person has kindly filed down a whole tooth with each file to see which file will take a tooth down the witness mark fastest! It's been an interesting thing to do.... I'd like to think of a way of doing a larger survey but I reckon it's taken a full day to organise this test! The wrapping and posting is the biggest pain the backside so next time maybe I'll organise something at the Jonsie show so more people testing and less time and cash from me!

Ha ha! Really? I may be interested if they were big enough/good colour but they'd have to be special to get my old truck and trailer that far afield!

I stand corrected! Found this on another forum: Husky mounts are not the same until you get to the very small saws. As I posted earlier Huskys from 61 through 3120Xp take the same mount. The old Oregon mount is D005 (9.5mm slot) The new Oregon mount is D009 (9.0mm slot) The old small saws 34, 35, and 37 take an open slot bar #AO64. The rest of the mid-range saws should accept the A095/K095/Z095 mount (8.2mm slot). If my memory is correct the difference is not limited to the slot size. the oil holes and chain adjuster holes are different.

My one for £80 sold a while ago I'm afraid....

I picked out this rascal right in the middle of large piece of redwood!

I've deliberately kept the grinder stones at a good price so that it's not too painful to get more in if needed. A vid of the grinder in use is below. Granberg also do a file version - the file and joint - this works well up to 18" or so bars but a but slow beyond that. [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aT5shPjj-i8&list=UU9K0KfLNH84tuWi2VjlSlCg&index=5&feature=plcp]chainsawbars.co.uk - Granberg 12volt precision ginder - G1012XT - YouTube[/ame]

I have a Husky 390 and have to say like it a lot... I wouldn't put longer than a 28" bar on it but it's a nice saw to start and use. The 880 and 3120 are completely different beasts and as said better for milling work very large cross cutting - you never really look forward to taking them out but for longer bars than 36" they are really the only option.

The next order will have all the Sugi bars in as the pro solid versions.... from 13" up to 20". And they have confirmed they can manufacture the 13" one for 346s etc.... with replaceable .325 nose sprocket. It does take a while for the order to get made and come through but Jonsie will be getting a good share of them when they get here. There will also be a special 14" solid bar for the MS200T - this will be the 'light' version that Sugi make and will have a replaceable nose. The light versions that Sugi do are pretty unique as they take a solid bar, take out several sections and then fill with a resin. So you still get the stiffness and light weight without sacrificing much longevity. But over here where we're not cutting regularly with a 36" bar in woods the lightness is not that necessary in the longer bars and with shorter bars the weight difference is minimal. Hence it'll only be the 14" bar for MS200 etc that'll be in the light weight version. The below is an example of a lighter weight carving bar

I'm going to collate the info today but I still think we are at 10 out of 18.... So other 8 please PM the results asap as everyone else wants to know what others have said.... I'll be sending out a reminder e-mail today and I think we'll give it until Sunday night 9pm before I show the results.... I can't show them now because it'll bias the ones that still need to come in.

Thanks for the recommendations gents I still use mine regularly usually every 3rd to 4th sharpen and the difference in cutting makes me think I should be using it more often than that!

Looks good Tony