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Rob D

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Everything posted by Rob D

  1. Or you need to make something - an end product. I have found that trying to sell green timber very difficult and frustrating.... even dry timber.... no one wants to buy the stack....
  2. Does this not say 20% as the meter is facing him? 1-2% - I would be very very surprised is this was achievable... and if it was no way on a commercial scale - you'd have to put more energy in than you'd get out of the dry wood.
  3. Yep it is indeedy but how you've cut that log in the pictures looks accurate. What I tend to highlight these days is what are you going to do with the timber? Where are you going to store it? One of the biggest problems I had in the early days was I had all this lovely timber and thought I would sell it hand over fist.... and found demand (near me anyway) is/was pretty much zero. People come and pick a bit out here and there.... but really to make money you need to turn it into a product. Something you enjoy making but that doesn't take too much time.
  4. I've used Aspen for 5 years solidly purely for the reduction in fumes and more reliably running chainsaws. This is on the whole chainsaw milling where my head is uncomfortably close to the fumes of an 880! So I'm surprised at your findings - how many cutters did you talk to and whereabouts is their team based? Particularly that you mention they all said that - I can imagine one or two people not getting on with it.....
  5. Ha ha! Nicely squared off log there though Dave! Can you not mini mill another plank off the side and settle for narrower planks. I'd try and manage on what you've got for now... Try and get some cash back on what you mill and don't go too mad milling everything that comes in your path! Chopping boards is where it's at IMO as long as you know someone with a good planer thicknesser... I seem to be making more from them than anything else using all the crappier bits of wood!
  6. Very nice and well finished
  7. Don't knock it until you've tried it Dave! I still enjoy hand filing but I just need a guide every third of fourth sharpen to get everything back right again.... not too proud to admit it and I've been sharpening 10 years. You have to have a very good eye to get a chain spot on in terms of tooth length and shape so each tooth is taking the same bite - alas I have not got that eye! This guide gets it pretty much spot on and you don't have to think about it other than for the first tooth.
  8. Was chatting to Andy yesterday and confirms exactly what you're saying Jon - you need to saw off each face to get the full benefits of burring - glad you mentioned it before I started sawing that log I have! I was going to quarter it!
  9. Here's part 2 of quarter sawing with chainsaw mills. This is really to show that it can be done although it's a tough workout pushing the mini mill up the log so many times! I tend to like the mini mill for maybe 2 cuts max in a day. It doesn't help that my rail set up is desperately in need of a rebuild. For the other half of the log left on the ground - not sure if this is possible to do. You could take another plank with the Alaskan and then firewood the rest. Or cut down the middle with the mini mill and split, then lift the quarters onto a couple of trestles. Then re saw with a small log mill (I'll be doing this in part 4). Part 3 will be quarter sawing with the new Granberg mill which I have set up again with a log ready to go. [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SzVhTvU4FCE&feature=youtube_gdata]Quarter sawing with chainsaws part 2 - YouTube[/ame]
  10. Glad you're liking it! I've started using it on my other saws now a lot more..... had a chain on Husky 346 that had 25% left in it. Hand sharpened and was cutting like a dull chain so used the precision grinder to get the teeth consistent and then used a 5/16" stone to do the depth guages all the same height. It doesn't give the depth guages a great shape but it's not bad and was very quick to do. Result - chain cutting perfectly again. Got a bit of confession to make as until recently I'd not been lining up the chain 'holders' correctly - I'd always had them below the rivets when they should be just above. This meant the chain was pulling up as it was sharpened. Now it stays firmly in position.
  11. Chainsaw mill into planks and make rustic furniture. You already have the wood and the chainsaw so easy enough to buy a mill. Loads of info on the Alaskan sub forum here: Alaskan Mill - Arbtalk.co.uk | Discussion Forum for Arborists Best way to convert logs into cash. Vids here alaskanmilluk - YouTube Be selective in what you plank. Best things to start with oak and cedar which are good for indoors and outdoors.
  12. I'd maybe cut off the largest burrs then mill the rest as planks are not too bad to carry between 2.... sort of! Nice looking bit of wood though.
  13. Really? I never realised that. I'll have a play and see the difference as I have a good size burr oak I've been meaning to mill for a while.
  14. Ok ok! I'm in! BUT - please tell me that this 007 film is 5000000% better than the 'Quantum of unspeakableness' that I almost walked out from!!!! Loved Casino Royal - hated the above unmentionable film so much words don't do justice
  15. It should make it a lot easier..... the only thing I can see being a problem quarter sawing a large log with the flip and rip will be lining up the log with the frame.... That will come in part 3 - I wanted to start off just covering how you could do it with the handheld mills first and then build up to the f&r!
  16. Yep - actually that's a very good point Bob. Before moving the quarters as shown I should really mill another plank with the Alaskan 2" above the mid cut to produce these boards and also reduce the weight of the remaining quarters. That will be the first part in 'Part 2'! In fact I may just quarter saw in situ using a combo of Alaskan and mini mill - this can then be 'Method 1' although I never look forward to using the mini mill more than once or twice on a log!
  17. I made a 'marketing mistake' getting full cube vented bags. I should also have got half cubic meter bags as well. Currently I charge: £85-00 per cube delivered mixed wood (hard and soft) £100-00 per cube delivered hardwood only (mixture of hardwood) £120-00 per cub delivered oak only (just oak!) Buy x2 bags get £10-00 off total. Free delivery within 10 miles. All seasoned in a polytunnel for 9 months min. But you compare any of these prices to £50-00 a load and they look expensive. So this year I'm getting some half cube vented bags and will re bag some of logs so my prices per 'load' will then start at £50-00 for 1/2 cube mixed wood £65-00 hardwood only. I've tried hard educating people about loads and volumes and what's what but have now reached the conclusion you can't beat the 'how much for a load' mindset.... so we'll see!
  18. I've had a look at that - I think that method is more suitable for bandsaws as you don't have to flip from one side to another i.e. less moving of the 'quarter' I dunno if you'd lose the burring as a result - although in a slightly burry log it would push the burring to the edges... but you could always through saw the burr area and then quarter saw the rest... I know - it wouldn't be for every log but I think I'll be milling at least half of my wood by quarter sawing from now on. More for stability reasons rather than the figuring.
  19. Now that the weather is getting colder it's the best time to start milling wood (doesn't dry so quickly initially which is one of the main causes of defects). I've been through and through sawing for years but now I can see the value of quarter sawing timber. What's quarter sawing? - this is the process of milling a log to get the growth rings running perpendicular to a board = less cupping and movement and warping. You also get more 'figuring on the board' i.e. in oak and beach you get attractive 'rays' in the wood. Great demo vid here that shows this: [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sVBsA1KbfY8]Plain Sawn vs Quarter Sawn - YouTube[/ame] In this vid I'm having a go at a largish piece of beech. It's not an ideal candidate as it's not a clean log but a good way to practice. For the first cut you want to be milling exactly in parallel with the log so you're not coming across the grain - hence the funny wooden shaped things for the ladder to rest on! These have been lined up with the center of the log. Do the horizontal cut first then try and set the mini mill so the tip of the saw is in the small gap (I had to long a bar to do this here). It's a good use of the mini mill. Part 2 will be looking at then re sawing the quarters in various ways to get quarter sawn boards. [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aXyZxnKyiyM&list=UU9eV7377LRZ9H98BQowuSbQ&index=1&feature=plcp]Quarter sawing using alaskan mill and mini mill - YouTube[/ame] And you can see a great animation of quarter sawing here. [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eQOLdlavAWA&feature=related]The Frank Miller Lumber Quartersawing Process - YouTube[/ame]
  20. It's a tricky question to answer - but could be answered accurately and quickly if you posted a video up of what's happening.
  21. It does depend on where you are and who you know.... I took a fair bit to a woodturners quarterly meeting - was selling for £1-00 to £2-00 per foot length (6" to 8" diameter) and came back with most of it.
  22. Well done for pushing the site on and improving things Steve
  23. It's a combo of both I'd say - Stihl have some blurb to the effect they are the only manufaturuer to pre stretch their chain to lessen the effect on initial fitting. "Pre-stretched Chain All STIHL OILOMATIC® saw chain is pre-stretched before leaving the factory. This helps eliminate excessive chain stretching during break-in period, and reduces maintenance time and component wear." Learn Why STIHL Produces Its Own Saw Chain | STIHL USA Mobile And I would say that as far as chain goes they do produce the best in the world.
  24. Many thanks all... I have had to increase the prices slightly (although not and the bars or chains) and postage - but you do now get 10% discount (instead of the previous 4%) as arbtalkers so should balance out!
  25. Great work and thanks for updating the pics James.... Although of course now you'll have to update this thread when you've finished and installed it all!

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