Brushcutter

I had one. 8" PTO driven with a turn table had it's own hydraulic system too so you could speed up and slow down the rollers nicely. Mainly used for chipping sawmill waste. Pulls wood really well but it wasn't brilliant on really small stuff but what bigger chippers are. I did crane loads of spruce brash through it and it would do it. Very solid bit of kit i liked was best part of a tonne on the linkage.

The Silviculture and management of Coppice Woodlands Growing Broadleaves for Timber: Forestry Commission Handbook 9 Forest Mensuration: A handbook for practitioners Managing Native Broadleaf Woodlands. Forestry For The Agent and Surveyor The Foresters Companion That would make a start of a very good bookshelf. The last one can be hard to find at a sensible price but i picked up mine for about a 5 quid in an Oxfam bookshop and my agent and surveyor one for 20 in the same shop.

I know it well. It's one of the largest hornbeam coppices in Europe. One of my favorite woodlands actually and despite being on my doorstep on i've never had the chance to work in. Hertfordshire Council's Countryside Management Service did all the planning and they use a mix of volunteers and contractors to do the work. Part of the woodland backs onto the far extent of the Hatfield House estate that had a lot of work done at that end a few years ago.

John Deere 6800. Not overly electric but a nice tractor. 40kph 6 pot very smooth and quite. Only thing i can fault is the shuttle.

This. If you want a 4 cylinder the Valmet 6400 is a good tractor too. It has a better turning circle and is just more compact.

Not on a 31. 31 is 3 hazards and risks of the work and 3 hazards and risks of the site. 32 has the 5 steps.

Having used both, flail every time. The chain swipe bashes stuff about but doesn't ever get to the nice chewed up mulch that a flail gives you. if you cut low enough with a flail you get a nice finish not so much with the swipe you will have lots of little broken bramble stems sticking up. Only thing going for the swipe is that they are fairly cheap.

Germany somewhere i would of guessed.

I've never seen that before. What a lovely spot to work and how civilised to have a mess hut on the side of the hill. Lots of cool felling gagets that you only seem to get lots of use over in Europe. Such as the big assisted winch tongs and the come along hook which also has a double and far better version. Those big felling jacks are really nice but you have to be a very brave man to jack those off the stump and free fall them to the landing. I hate downhill logging at the best of times but that is not my cup of tea. I suppose that is what you get in real remote selective cuts. Still a very nice video.

It doesn't go well......

Normal thing is to bend the pipe and run it down the bonnet but the Valmets have the silencer under the bonnet. Best place to put it is up the side of the cab and link it with some flexible pipe like you say. If you can't mount it there like you said under the brash bar would be an idea place.

Who won?

Bore the bar in and shove the bar in that and roll it that way. Have you tried sharpening the hook?

I've got a V6500 Cable lay is the only issue you can run into. Winch something really heavy up to the winch when you first put the cable on the drum. keep it dry, thats what is currently upsetting mine. The guys at Osbornes are very helpful on the phone if you call.

In the past i put an 18" on it. It was very lively. A 20" keep the power up but also balances better.

595 or 5120.

Has anybody actually got PA6-PP to do this or is it one of these things we just do?

Ears or wing cuts.

It looks like a 100-110hp tractor. I've run a 12" chipper on a 100hp and they do struggle on timber. Also with the 4 cylinder running flat out fuel consumption is rather high. Looks like it has a free flow return and a lot of spools all very helpful for running the crane. Things to check is wear on the front axle from use of the loader. Oh it looks like an early N series so check for leaks on the valve block on under the cab. I think there is a pipe that rubs and leaks, downside is that if it goes or leaks the cab has to come off.

Used these Austrian scythes to cut an orchard many years ago. Scythes - Tools | Green Shopping keep them very sharp.

Agri based forestry is the ultimate compromise. The real question is do you want a roof mount or a jake mount? Roof mount gives you a short king post crane shoved up on a frame at the level of the roof. This is great as it gives you a good viability but stability suffers as you have a lot of weight up high thus raises the center of gravity. Jake on the other hand uses a long king post crane and puts it on a frame just below the window. Downside is that you have have a big crane king post to look round but you get use to this. The advantage is that you've moved the weight further down in the tractor so stability goes up a bit. Also you can put legs on the frame to increase the stability. I've mainly used crane on trailer based setups but when i've done roof mount it's been useful mainly because you can winch up logs and then stack up logs and brash neatly. Ease of use wise it's no different to using a regular crane on a trailer but you get thrown around a lot if your not smooth with it. Also picking up logs that are too big or working on slopes can lead to scary moments. Tip a forwarding trailer over and its easy to rectify tip the roof mount and cost run up quick. setting up the tractor is another big challenge -4 cylinder is light and nippy and can get anywhere i the wood. 6 cylinders gives you pulling power and stability. Then there is tyres - big or narrow agri or forestry. Step out the hubs for width for stability or keep them in for going up racks. PTO pump or get a modern tractor with a load sensing pump and run it off that or just run it off the spools. Big front tank or run it off the tractor tank. I think it depends on what woods you will be working in. A lot of the ones i've worked in would have had issues with roof mounts just because of all the pipes up high.

I've got one. TBH it's not very good. Personally i prefer to go to the morse taper milling machine to drill big holes.

Depends on what tools you want to use. Personally I'd get some Halfords advanced kit. It's lifetime guaranteed and it's actually quite nice to use. My basic toolkit: 1/4 socket set 3/8 socket set 1/2 socket set 2x spanner sets 6-32mm Copper hammer and ball pein hammer punches/drifts screwdrivers pliers allen/torqs keys allen keys in 1/2 drive Should pick most of that in halfords for less than 300 quid.

What is the DBH? Sound timber? Bigger is better. A 6.5 might do it but i'd be happier with a 9 on it.

I do like the old Valmets. Oh but the new deep metallic green Valtra is a sight to behold.