Brushcutter

Agri based forestry is the ultimate compromise. The real question is do you want a roof mount or a jake mount? Roof mount gives you a short king post crane shoved up on a frame at the level of the roof. This is great as it gives you a good viability but stability suffers as you have a lot of weight up high thus raises the center of gravity. Jake on the other hand uses a long king post crane and puts it on a frame just below the window. Downside is that you have have a big crane king post to look round but you get use to this. The advantage is that you've moved the weight further down in the tractor so stability goes up a bit. Also you can put legs on the frame to increase the stability. I've mainly used crane on trailer based setups but when i've done roof mount it's been useful mainly because you can winch up logs and then stack up logs and brash neatly. Ease of use wise it's no different to using a regular crane on a trailer but you get thrown around a lot if your not smooth with it. Also picking up logs that are too big or working on slopes can lead to scary moments. Tip a forwarding trailer over and its easy to rectify tip the roof mount and cost run up quick. setting up the tractor is another big challenge -4 cylinder is light and nippy and can get anywhere i the wood. 6 cylinders gives you pulling power and stability. Then there is tyres - big or narrow agri or forestry. Step out the hubs for width for stability or keep them in for going up racks. PTO pump or get a modern tractor with a load sensing pump and run it off that or just run it off the spools. Big front tank or run it off the tractor tank. I think it depends on what woods you will be working in. A lot of the ones i've worked in would have had issues with roof mounts just because of all the pipes up high.

I've got one. TBH it's not very good. Personally i prefer to go to the morse taper milling machine to drill big holes.

Depends on what tools you want to use. Personally I'd get some Halfords advanced kit. It's lifetime guaranteed and it's actually quite nice to use. My basic toolkit: 1/4 socket set 3/8 socket set 1/2 socket set 2x spanner sets 6-32mm Copper hammer and ball pein hammer punches/drifts screwdrivers pliers allen/torqs keys allen keys in 1/2 drive Should pick most of that in halfords for less than 300 quid.

What is the DBH? Sound timber? Bigger is better. A 6.5 might do it but i'd be happier with a 9 on it.

I do like the old Valmets. Oh but the new deep metallic green Valtra is a sight to behold.

For a couple of hundred quid you could be doing IOSH Managing safely and a few other things COSHH and stuff. Probably better invested money. Do some staff management courses and get contracts and things made up by a pro. I don't think it would all come to 10k.

Yes it is. Common in Scandinavia. They leave it roadside to dry out for a while then chip it into a lorry. They normally put a role of paper over the top to keep the weather off. I did a lot of it over in Finland.

Assisted fell some 50 or so Lawson Cypress.

Had 3 days off, it appears to have messed up my ability to write.

This. If you can get a really big auger all the better.

Just want to see if there is an Arb/Forestry split on pricing and any rationality. Cheers.

Marc that one in the hollow tree with the base tie is really, really good.

Forestry. Going with the filter theme that's going on here.

Didn't Oregon states logger of the year win for a project like that? Very cool. Wouldn't want the tail hold to pull when doing that.

Chainsaw carvers quite like a 2.4 or 2.6 Larch butt end. Just about hand movable but big enough to do some nice stuff with. Also you get a lot more than firewood money. Winter felled Larch also cuts better than spring/summer felled as well in my experence.

Was it a butt end? I started taking 2.4 or 2.6 off the end of every tree because they always had weird tensions in that pinched the bands or decided that it wanted to cut a dimension of own. Larch can gum up the band but with a good scraper and lots of lube it does cut well. Diesel works well but i went over to using a water based lubricant neat much nicer for me but not quite a good for the band.

Like felling Larch easy to dress and it's always fairly easy to process to lengths. I also like milling it, yes you get covered in a lot of sap but it's easy to cut. I hate peeling it before you milling it.

Thank you. I'm well aware of that. I assumed it was for work. The OP hasn't specified if it's for work or not.

http://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/wis16.pdf http://www.rdmengineering.co.uk/pdffiles/wis38.pdf https://www.ukfisa.com/assets/files/safetyLibrary/FISA%20601%20Circular%20Saws.pdf All of those are worth a look. At the moment as it stands it isn't in any way shape or form compliant with PUWER.

If you can oxy weld then tig isn't a massive jump. You ruin the electrode if you get too close. Then you have to grind it back nicely. There is a lot of fafing about with more setting. I do intend to teach myself at some point. Again it's one of these things where you need to spend about 700 quid to get a good tig. Tig does think stuff well - but as with all welding the prep is more important that the actual welding.

Paulownia tomentosa?

MIG Welder | 240v Portable Inverter MIG Welding Equipment I-MIG180 150amp ish from a 13amp socket. If you have a 16amp socket then even better you'll get the most from it. Unless you want to do serious big welding and lots of it then it's not worth the hassle of running a 32amp socket from the board to where you want to weld which would let you run 180amp plus. The inverter first changes the current from AC to DC and then transforms it to desired welding current. Technically the transforming bit is inverting and the AC/DC bit is rectification. If a supermig 200 is a 200amp machine for around about 300 quid i doubt the duty cycle is very long and a i expect it's not very good.

I use a SIP 181DP which will kick out 180 amps on 16amp. I run it 13amp so it maxes out around the 130-140 amp range. The duty cycle isn't very good. But being dual polarity it does give you a range of options. My favourite one in the workshop is the BOC transmig 180 but that is from the 1970s i expect. When it dies it will be a sad day because spares are very rare. The 250amp quasiarc company welder died recently:thumbdown: For a new one I'd get an Rtech one decent price duty cycle and quality. 180amp range will do 10mm but you will have to V prep it and do multiple passes.

Had this for the first time. With Firefox.

Basically it's just a big gear. Say the drum has 20cm of cable thickness on the drum the outside is 20cm further away from the drive so the bend radius is bigger so the gearing is higher so you get a faster line speed. At the bottom of the drum you get more power but less line speed.