Brushcutter

I love full wrap handels they look so cool. But remember if your kunckels aren't grazed then you aint low enough.

As Hama says there are some cracking point and shoot cameras out there. More than capeable of holding their own with a DSLR. The Nikon D60 is a great beginner camera for DSLR just a pain to get AF lenses for. If you can strech to a D90 then you can take some fantastic shots and have lots of options to grow into and explore. I have a Nikon D90 DSRL. Fantastic camera but if you want to do macro stuff you need a macro lense. I've got a few lenses for it do do different things. from 17mm to 300mm some fixed most zoom. S/H camera you can get some cracking deals. My friend got a Nikon D80 s/h had taken less shots than his D60 that he traded in at the same time. S/h lenses are great value i have a 17-50mm F2.8 lense. Cost 280 well over 500 new. It's my current fave. One thing about camera is that its a real Nikon/Cannon club. Once your in one the other brand does not exist

http://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/afag301.pdf Gloves.* The type of glove will depend on a risk assessment of the task and the machine. Consider the need for protection from cuts from the chainsaw, thorny material and cold/wet conditions. Where chainsaw gloves are required, these should comply with EN 381-7. Thats taken from the AFAG guide which set out best practice. HAVS is a far bigger risk than being cut by the chainsaw. So the grippy builders gloves offer protection that. Allow a better grip thus not leading to grip issues with Carple tunnel. Offer impact resistance and abrasion resistance. Slip that in the site risk assessment and you;d be ok? surely.

That looks like another nifty gadget i shall buy and put in chainsaw box and never use again. It does look very useful though especially for the bigger chains. How hard is it to make a 48" bit of plastic.

I have to go and listen to Unforgiven 2 now. Its a fantastic video.

Gives you a little faith doesn't it. What took 40 mins? I wonder how many people they catch running on red? I bet it's omn the increase.

Charlie has it right. I've just got a pair of Arbortec gloves which are pritty good. During the snow of the winter i wore a pair of thinsulate gloves with some big yellow grippy gloves over the top. My reasoning cold wet hands and going to be knackered by vibration than without.

Nice. I'd love to have a go topping out a pine. How many trees did you take out?

Thats a big bar to bend. You'll more than likely need to get a new one as they just never bend back totally streight. Even if you do get it right they'll always be a kink in the rails which will knacker the drive links of the chain.

More power=better. I have a 660 with a 3' bar on mine. It works but its deadly slow on hardwoods when using the 3'. When using 20-25" bars its much better. I wish i had waited a month and saved the money and got a 880/3120.

I'd say a good harvester operator in a softwood stand would be putting out more than 100m3 a day. 150 more likely. £5 a m3 for is a good start for forwarding but with rising fuel prices 7 maybe closer to the mark.

I'm planning on getting a hard top for a sungtop or the like. Surely that would lower the drag coefficent?

It's not looking good. Looks like i'm going to get no where near my D22 fuel efficency, although it took me a while to get it upto and settle at that. It's this new Euro 4 engine thats killed the MPG seems the Euro 3 wasn't as heavy on the fuel. Works out well for the tax man though, just not the environment or my pocket.

Hi With time running out on my MOT its time to bite the bullet and get a D40 Navara Outlaw. I've got a D22 one and i get 35mpg out of it. I test drove a 07 D40 navara last week. I got 25-26mpg out of it. I wasn't happy it was on General Grabber AT2s but they shouldn't have a massive effect. So internet seraches say that the newer Navara aren't as good as old ones. 18-25mpg to my mind just isn't affordable at best part of 8 quid a gallon that is only going to go up. So i ask you what reg is your navara, tyres on it and your MPG. I've hurd that the 56 plate ones seem to do best. Thanks Andy

Where about in Herts Tony? Be intrested to see you do a reduction.

If you can dig out round it and fell it really low, sort of 8" below the ground low you get some top notch figuring

What old botex do you have?

It's contacts. Its all well and good felling 40 tonnes of thinning out of a woodland but do you know someone with a forwarder to get them out, who will buy these thinnings. I do hardwoods and softwoods working on estates, farms etc. My favourite changes some days i love the softwoods other days (normally when they hang up) i long to do some hardwoods. I've done tonnage, day rate work for wood. Best all round is day rate as you always go home with something which is great when you've bent a guide bar, had the winch to bits and only got two trees over. But as Jonathan says somedays the site the weather and your ability all come together and you get a lot of stuff down and your worse off by the hour. In forestry as a contractor you generally have to buy timber from what ranges from a free to £55 quid standing. You then have to fell process and extract and sell your wood to recoup your outlay and try to make a profit. The FC, local council, landed estates are all places to contact. Its a lot to take in to start with its best to find a company to work with who does woodland/forestry work and learn from them. It is rather scary the self employed way.

As already said their parallel lift is what makes them idea for crane feeding. I can tell you that is a bit of a pain loading with a botex. However a Botex will lift you more than a MOWI, not that is an isuue when chipping.

How big is this Walnut?

I've bounced stuff off but never broken one:thumbup:

Best thing is to get out there and try this stuff on and have a look as it really is personal taste. I use Arbortech chainsaw gloves with little gel AV pads in and they're very comfy and quite warm. Hard wearing i'm yet to tell. The timberland ones i had for 3 week and wrecked. I have Strech Airs extremes, STIHL Hiflexs and some Husky technical chainsaw trousers. My faves are the Strech Airs but they are the most expensive. In the summer i wear the Husky ones. I have a Husky balance and a Pedlz vertex vent. Which i wear depends on my mood and which ear defender i want. I do a little bit of climbing hence the vertex. So if you'd like to do a climbing course a pedzel helmet for you. Boots I use Haix on about my 5th pair of protector pros. get a year to 18 months from them. Had Treemee ones before that. Perfer the Haix might try some Arbortech ones next. PPE is all down to personal taste and what you think serves you best. If you want to feel super safe Husky do some class 2 chainsaw trousers that are cut resistant with 24m/s chain speed.

I have a 346 and have 13,15 and 18" bars for it. 99% of the time the 13 is on it. The other 1% is the 15 never use the 18" any more. It's worth having the 15" as you can go streight through stuff doing small felling rather than having to sweep around with a 13. Get both i think my 15" guide bar was 20 quid and 15 quid for the chain from clarks.

Oregpm 21BPX is what i use on all my .325 saw fantastic stuff. I use 73LP on the bigger saws as i can't find the DP one. Any news on skip chain comming to the UK?

Sounds fantastic. Is there a cost? Its a way away but seem like its worht a trip.