PeteB
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Everything posted by PeteB
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Probably more like the rear hinge. Is their a bell housing and shaft on the rear of the engine block? Using a trolly jack, lift up the engine cradle until you can remove the belts then slowly drop the cradle down until it bottoms out then check hinges.
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Blimey! Don't fit a spacer under the front of the block! Find out why the back has risen or the front dropped, cure the problem - don't put a plaster on it and hope it heals!
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Belts should also be (ideally) fitted as a matching set with them all as close to the same length. Your middle belt is not the same as the other two! Those two pulleys are not in line - either the back of the engine is tipped up or the back of your chipper tipped down meaning a bust chassis. Let us know where the issue is!
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Almost right with Gibson's at Colne, it is a company called PSD, a spin off from Gibson's who sell stuff through dealers up and down the country like mowers etc. Gibson's would be the agent for that area, I understand that Danequip are dealers in Sussex and they know their stuff! Look at the PSD website for clues elsewhere.
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Ideally, belt pulleys do need to be as near as dammit, in line. Sounds like the engine cradle mounting is out of alignment, possibly because the hinges are knackered. Is there anything that you can use as a reference between the cradle and the chassis? Is the pivot points okay? Hinge bolts present?
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Is the truck about to become a beavertail behind the mudguard?
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Jade, you need this too! Put your bid in with Nigel!
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The specs is pretty impressive, a tad more 'budget' than I was expecting and a bit more than just DIY, but, I'll do my best to justify it when she finds it! Perhaps list it as part of the sons inheritance!?!
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So, back to impact guns, budget buys? Which one? Drills, grease guns, nails? Etc, not today thanks...... My birthday soon and was dreaming of want I need to hint on!
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Valid point! Who wants 1000nm when things like chipper blades are 210nm, wheel studs 150nm. Same for a grease gun, you can put too much pressure into a track tensioning piston and such like.
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A bearing specialist came to us and was horrified that we recommend rotor bearings get two or three pumps once a week. His recommendation was one pump per week max!
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Anyone got an opinion? For home use fannying about in the garage and to carry in car to help change wheels etc at the roadside. Snap On, Mac etc would be good but not for my needs....
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Please run away! Support local brands with back up and support! Everything has a place in a market but.....
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Dunno. That's a major redesign and would more than likely push us way past 750kg! Doubt it to be honest....
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The Quad Chip with the 34hp will be produced until we either hit 2020 or run out ofthose engines. We then will have sorted out possibly 37hp petrol and 26hp diesel if that's what people will have.
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The 165 rotor was the result of an awful lot of testing and research. Some visitors to the factory have seen a few of the projects that we have got involved with. Some projects that would never be on the UK or European market too! The general rule with diesel engines is that if they are over 25hp, they got to burn clean. One way is to downrate or detune so that they are under less load. The other way is fancy electronic aides and "after treatment", like DPF units. One solution adds weight and some cost - letting a 50hp unit run at 35, while the other just adds cost and complexity! This is an over simplification but more or less true. I got told some years ago by the chap who does my MOT stuff that VOSA/DVLA are trying, along with the motor manufacturers, to get people to accept the DPF units on vehicles as 'service' items to be changed every couple of years!
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Most EU regs are driven by UK! They follow.... Go to California and they are worse!
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We have always done 25/26ho diesels and sold rooks abroad! Favourite in Spain for example. But, the UK buyers were fixated on having 35hp even performance increase was, for the most part, marginal. Now that Tier 5 looms, get used to it, buy petrol or pay more. Simple choices thrust on us all! We got stocks (at the moment) that will do our 150TD/QC160 range until next summer but we are producing the 165 now! It is a belter!
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Torque curve v hp curve, letter the government for its job, changes of pulley ratio and clever monitoring of rotor speed and no stress device.
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The comment of mine ref Puma engines comes from a discussion in a customer's workshop. They had a fleet of Transits and Rangers which pretty well all suffered from burnt engines and destroyed turbochargers. According to them, the Puma was a joint design with Ford and Peugeot/Citroen. The story is that for some reason, the 2.4 was reduced to 2.2 with truly massive pump pressure and once the injection spray starts to falter, it burns pistons etc. Some of their fleet had a couple of engine rebuilds and then a couple of engines. PCA left it to Ford to put right and soldier onwards!
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The 1505 engine used for years by other suppliers is run faster to get the HP. But doing so makes them 'dirty'. Turn down the rpm cleans them up for emissions yet still leaves a torque little unit. Yes, pulleys and belts need to be changed and, I think there may be a hydraulic change needed but I'm not 100% sure. The caveat involved means no warranty, no comeback. Remember the fine that VW and possibly others are facing?
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Watch those injectors - if they start to hose, they will burn through the piston crown, skirt and cylinder wall like a laser jet!
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The bother with tuning engines is that it immediately voids all warranties! If the engine supplier doesn't like your game, he can hold back or halt supply! People just have to accept that engine supply to all manufacturers is changing and we can do nothing about it. Same as towing limits were fixed some 23 years ago and we all have had to accept it.
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Terry, aka Lefteris, is the sparky at GreenMech, he and his team do the final wiring on all models and Terry gets involved in the special projects. Thanks for answering, I was a right rush to get away north today!
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I'll find out exactly what the remote does. As it is designed as a 'hand fed', it may be that a manual switch changes it from tracked to chipper and then hit the yellow throttle and green for feed in!
