Jamie

i was more hoping for one of the smaller ones, we had a catalogue at work that had the smaller sized pulleys but can't seem to find them on line Jamie

anyone know where i can get the small ISC pulleys like this one http://www.iscwales.com/pdf/pulleys/aluminium/RP033%20Medium%20double%20eiger.pdf to take up to a 13mm rope Jamie

I love the smell of laurel. Isn't Cinnamon a laurel? Cinnamon - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia Jamie

They are both doublebraids the boa is quite a stiff lay and quite tough to run home the splice. (i've not spliced it for ages though). follow a class1 doublebraid instruction and you won't go wrong Jamie

well done laddie Jamie

Boots wijn out over wellies any day, unless of course you are standing in shin deep water Jamie

I looked at this thread and thought 'on this forum there is no such thing as 'just a question'.'. Jamie

Surely selling something as accessory cord means that if someone uses it as prussic cord they took that choice upon themselves. I'm sure you could try to use drag chains as a prussic but i'm sure it's not CE marked. that is however way off topic Jamie

for a basic first kit that sounds good. you could add a cambiums saver and retrieval ball and you'd be laughing, it's better to learnt he basics before moving up. Jamie

Don't phone drive out. We should be around, but i didn't say that:001_cool: Jamie

Ahh, we were out in Broxburn, give him a call. Always back up a CV with a call and offer to do any work. back to prussics, i tape em, cut em then use the torch to heat a bit of metal and seal the ends that way. Jamie

Hey Deni are you the guy nthat spoke to me in the Bolbeth petrol station one day? don't go speaking to that Tom guy he's proper shifty:001_tongue: Jamie

I did my dissertation at the falls of clyde. very nice place. I found a rare beetle Jamie

for occasional users i'd say it'd be worth it, for anyone else i think it'd get in teh way. Jamie

I'd imagine you'd naturally favour one end so any milking would gravitate to one splice then bunch up below one hitch. any bagginess in teh splice would lead to less secure splice. strong splices have gradual tapers, i'd think that baggy splice would lose this gradualness of the taper and become weaker. the splices i have had broken have always broken at the start of the taper or where there has been a sudden change in taper diameter. I don't like the sudden taper in samsons Tenex / tenex-tec directions. i always perform a smoother more gradual taper. sorry i've deviated a bit Jamie

Educated Arborist. In reference to milked ropes reducing the strength of the splice, what rope constructions are we/you talking about. Having spliced many ropes for my use and a few for others i'm well aware that baggy splices could drastically reduce the strength and holding abilitly of the splice. I'm aware that Yale Blaze and XTC milk considerably so i'd never splice both ends of a line. I have spliced both ends of a Samson Arbormaster line after a few months of milk free service (one eye was spliced before service then the second was spliced after a few months use). I've never understood removing the milked sheath. While aesthetically not nice, i'm unsure of how many people actually use the last meter of their rope(this could be an argument for removing the milked sheath). I tend to leave the milked end on and tie my stopper knot above the milked tail, should i find myself at my stopper knot it would give a good working length of rope to use. I'd be interested to hear your results and your methods (not methodology, such a miss used word but thats another topic). I've an open mind and a vested interest as i splice a fair few cords and have played around with splice constructions with positive results. I do however agree with your statements about stitched terminations being more repeateable and less prone to human error than splices or knots. Jamie

Vice Versa Jamie

splices are way stronger than knots. With braided ropes (ropes like Arbormaster, xtc, blaze etc) you have to watch out for the rope milking (where the sheath of teh rope stretches and you end up with a floppy end to your rope). the only 16 strand rope i know of that doesn't milk is Samson Arbormaster. I don't know where you could get someone to splice 2 eyes however. I do all my own. hope that helped a bit Jamie

a few checks first. you'll have the core marked up where it exits the rope yeah? you'll be untieing that knot soon yeah? you'll be making a new fid with a closed eye / loop on the end for attaching to something. i'd say insert the fid and slide it up the rope being very careful not to snag any strands (core or cover) you can massage the rope, i find that pulling the core out further will help to pull the fid up (the mark on the core will allow you to bury it properly). Once you've got the fid out the crossover point insert the tail of the splice into the fid and pull it until it's about to enter the crossover of the splice. attach the loop of the fid to something really heavy and pull the eye and milk the splice. it's easier to pull the rope over the tail than pull the tail through teh splice. hope that helped a bit Jamie

The whoopie as a foot loop works great. i spliced a huge eye in my first foot loop which worked but my foot kept slipping out. this way you can crank the whoopie down and your foot stays put. Jamie

Just thought i'd pitch in too, i've been meaning to post for a while. Here is my set up. I anchor it too me using one of the Horrible ISC super safe carabiners (i bought it and didn't like it so it's used for this). From this Krab i have my Petzl Croll and my Petzl ascender attached. The Croll Is attached directly to teh Krab and the Ascender via a 9mm tenex tec sling and a mallion. I have a bungee tied from the top of teh croll to the ascender to pull it up. Hanging from the mallion onthe Ascender i made a footloop whoopie sling for my left foot (not the right as in my picture) and i finish off with a Petzl pantin. I tried the make shift inner tube chest strap and that never really worked for me. i then tried a webbing chest strap but it never really worked, both seemed to be a hassle to take off while in teh tree. i'm yet to try the bungee cord to pull the croll up but when i'm moving up i tend to keep upright pretty well. Jamie Jamie

sounds bad, hope you heal up quickly Jamie

OS - I always thought that tenex tec was the sling grade 12strand from samson while standard tenex was used as a rope. looks good though. I need to splice something again Jamie

Technically AP should be a type 2 splice as the core is made from Dyneema. I spliced up a length with standard class one splices but i've never used it. I don't like the idea of using it as a prussic due to the low melting point of the dyneema core. splicing it correctly it should have a long class 2 bury but this would make the cord very stiff. Jamie

splices by nick, nick is a great splicer, he does a lot of stuff at the treehouse Jamie