Peter 1955

Presumably primarily because there's no filter on the forum. As a Mod on another forum, much hilarity, exasperation and debate came from what was/wasn't, should/shouldn't be tolerated. Secondary reason: Because we're all big, robust, grown up unshockable outdoorsy types? ?

Fair enough. There's worse kit than Einhell. Re saws up ladders, it's not a marriage made in heaven whatever power they use. From the scenario you describe, if you go for Einhell, I'd be adding one of these. ( Mind you, I have Makita tools, so my choice is made already). Edit: Blimey, the Einhell stuff is cheap! Saw, charger and one 3Ah battery for less than the cost of two Makita batteries? If I were using any battery kit, 5Ah is the minimum size, and 6 is better.

I must be missing something here. Personally, I'd be taking the petrol saw out to acquire the timber, and using a battery or mains one at home.

Lateral thinking reply, ( alluded to by Stere ) have you room to get an access platform in, if you like them at the height they are? ( Or simply wish to lower them more easily with kit you have). One of my local hirers has now got a self propelled one, which sounds absolutely ace.

And Mini Digger weekend hires. ?

Wasn't any paint on mine. Been in a piggery for fifty years. Don't think I will ever use drier timber.

( Almost ) absolutely nothing. This is what I used to cut up the nail embedded timber from a big demolition job. I only removed big external nails. The little Brother is an excellent piece of kit, but obviously smaller cutting capacity. Both are excellent for cutting clean timber of most types. They don't like really fresh ( ie dripping wet ) tanalised.

I'm going to try 2.7 first, I think. That should let me know whether 3mm is an option. Thanks.

I couldn't find that information anywhere, must not have been looking in the right place. Might just order some 2.7 and try it, nothing to lose, thanks.

No Sir, you misunderstand me, sorry. Multiple Kombis. One set up with extension, one without. Works for me. Love my Kombis.

I used to get cheesed off when hedgecutting, inserting and removing extension pieces. It was a real pain in the posterior. As my inventory of tools has grown, the luxury of having one engine at normal length, and one extended is sheer bliss, and really cuts down wasted time.

Much the same as my practice. 16" inset boiler, I cut logs to 15". That way I can feed them in and fill it efficiently, without sticking my hand too far in! ( Doors on the front, fed horizontally ).

I was going to make a really cost saving and versatile suggestion, based on what I'm doing. Then when I looked at the figures, the list prices were near identical. A big Stihl petrol polesaw is almost exactly the same list price as a Kombi engine, extension and pole pruner, so if you only want to cut branches, and not strim grass etc, no advantage at all. You'd actually have a worse machine. I will however add that when I used the pruner for butchering thorn hedges, it was a real pain keeping the chain attached. Fortunately, my experiment of upgrading to a bar and chain for my 023 transformed the job.

I use my Kombis as strimmers and brushcutters quite a lot. Blades are no problem, I've got favourite types which do what I want perfectly. It's the line I have questions with. I realise that here we're in a balancing act between indestructible line and engine power/gearbox strength. Apologies for being about to quote lots of numbers. I currently use 2.4mm line ( I like Nylium best of all ) in Autocut 25-2 heads. Can I simply enlarge a couple of holes in the inner mounting to accept 2.7 line, will this work OK? ( On occasion, I think I've used thicker line, and shaved the ends of the line ). Alternatively, would either Autocut 30-2, or 36-2 fit onto my Kombis? Or does anyone have better suggestions than my ideas? Only stipulation is that it must fit Kombis, I'm really not looking at buying even a cheap unit which normally uses thicker line. ( We once borrowed a couple of whacking great Stihls for a paddock clearance, and could barely keep the buggers in fuel)! Thanks folks.

I have had great success recently with a " Terrasaur" blade on a Stihlsaw. Wouldn't deal with railings, but is designed to cut roots in soil. £100 a time, but so far, well worth its money. Takes a bit of getting used to. I'm of the opinion that that job will wreak more havoc on chainsaws than is economically viable.

A book everyone should read. " All animals are equal. ( But some animals are more equal than others)". The last pages of that book are very powerful.

That's one of the most sensible posts I've seen on here, or anywhere else. ( In my humble opinion). If you remember, we were originally trying for Herd Immunity, until talk of half a million deaths frightened politicians. It's not a nice thing to say, but perhaps the cure of everybody staying cooped up behind locked doors, while the country goes bankrupt is worse than the disease of higher than normal death rates. And before anyone suggests otherwise, my wife and I are both in At Risk/ High Risk categories, so I'm not speaking as someone unlikely to be harmed.

I've filled out the preliminary form, all been approved. Apparently I get a second form on 14th May, where I give bank details, and money hits my account eight days later, fingers crossed. The more I see of it, the more I think I may apply for a Bounce Back Loan, even if I don't spend it. Even if I spend it, it will be the cheapest loan I get my hands on.

I was a tad wary too, so I got a little push mower with a Briggs and Stratton on it. Some of the smaller Cobra engines don't have a throttle, merely a set engine speed. That's another reason why I went for one with a Briggs on. My father has a Honda self propelled, and using that one certainly gets a move on, it's a bit rapid!

Well, well, well, well. I must report that the chap on Ebay is a most splendid fellow. Having put my glasses on, and viewed the chain under a good light, I find that not only did I miss seeing the dimples on my new chain, but also the legend " Stihl". Oops. Silly me. Good info about the trusted sites though, I've already learnt a lot about possible replacement parts for my saws.

Invaluable procedure with woodscrews. Excellent advice.

Something a mechanic told me years ago, if you're trying to undo something which you're fearful of damaging/rounding off, use a T-bar central to the head. This ensures the torsional force is applied along the same axis, and not at an angle, as it would be with say a ratchet or spanner.

Thank you for that. I was more referring to the local dealers I deal with. The Farm Shops here ( although genuine Stihl agents ) are running low on stock, and the big dealer near me closed very early into the outbreak. Fortunately, the day after they put the cable to repair my Husqvarna Rider in the post. Yay.

The scenario I was fearing. Ah well. ? Good job it's a spare for the electric saw. On a positive note, the branded Oregon one I got cuts very well. I'll be glad when more places reopen, it's a real pain relying on Ebay for bits.

Interesting that his post comes up now, as I recently bought a chain from Ebay, which came in a Stihl marked box, with blank specification fields. After initially being slightly worried, I too came up with the same explanation as Chris Newport. It would however be nice if the chain had Stihl stamped on every link.