Peter 1955
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Everything posted by Peter 1955
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I have a Stihl 251 with the same size bar as the Makita. Doesn't feel that much faster to me.
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I have used and abused it for many years, cut tonnes of logs without a single hiccup, and I have buried that 16" bar to capacity on more than one occasion. It has never, repeat never stalled, bogged, or failed to cut. If you say the chain isn't running fast enough, I believe you. It still cuts more than fast enough for me.
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Oh Doobin, that makes me feel so good about myself. It's not just me then? Yes, we got very good at adjusting those rears. When tuned up tight, they worked a lot better than the discs on my Transit do now!
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Anything hitched behind a 3.5T LWB LDV is a real pain. They were never nimble. Or narrow. I remember driving towards a Golf Club, which had telegraph poles laid horizontally, about a foot high to keep vehicles off the grass. All of a sudden, I stopped dead! My front wheel nuts had snagged the poles at each side, and I couldn't get anywhere near!
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I used to have one which was heavy, but to my eyes a better design. It folded the legs out very wide, and the two front legs were at a steep angle, which allowed the working platform to be very close to the hedge. Until all the bushes/bolts wore, it was very stable. You don't seem to see them now. I may yet have a go at rebushing it, and new bolts. May need a lot of wd40 though.
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No idea at all about this but on the sprayers we used to use RDS instruments did shaft speed monitors. All it consists of is a magnet lashed to a shaft, and a sensor on a bracket. Pretty simple.
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Environmentally friendly stump grinding? Could be a strong selling point. I've had my hands on one of those emergency services chainsaws with the depth stop, that was a brute. Also seen those masonry chainsaws in use, and I'd have to say that although they're both undoubtedly awesome, running costs are high. A carbide blade that sharpens itself looks attractive compared to that.
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That's the same with any disc on a Stihlsaw, unless you get a 14" beast. I take your point that chainsaws have greater depth of cut, but in my experience, once the chain has gone round once in soil, you might be as quick chewing the root off!
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It's great for cutting roots. It's great for cutting tyres, pallets, belting and all sorts of stuff that's abrasive, dirty and/or unkind to other cutting tools. It's a cutting tool, it cuts. You can't run it laterally over a dead, rotting stump to lower it. You can cut the roots, and dig the blighter out, because that's what it's designed for. I tried to grind on a stump which was very soft and weak. It's not the tool for the job. Had I intended to dig the stump out, it's perfect. There's nothing else I know of on the market like it. It's a perfect piece of kit for that Blue Moon job. Get one, you won't regret it. ( Not if you can buy one for £50 you won't, mine was over £100! )
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If you're going to start using axes, adzes, picks, mattocks, chisels and semtex, then the blade is not bringing that much to the party. Doobin, I completely accept what you say. I never said it was the answer to life, the universe and everything, just ( in my humble opinion ) a good alternative to wrecking saws and chains.
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I'd use a Stihlsaw with a Terrasaur Blade rather than a chainsaw when soil or metal is expected. Recommended for root cutting, but be warned: They are absolutely correct, you cannot use it as a stump grinder! Well, as soon as they say you can't do something, you have to try it, don't you? 😉 Mine has cut roots, pallets and other crap. It's a lot slower than a chainsaw, but versatile.
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Best brush cutters/clearing saws?
Peter 1955 replied to drinksloe's topic in Forestry and Woodland management
Short answer, no. Long answer, I can get covered in enough green, brown and multi coloured stuff as it is with a guard on, so I don't fancy adding to the detritus on my clothes by dispensing with it. I suspect that may elicit a reply along the lines of " don't knock it till you've tried it", but so be it. -
Best brush cutters/clearing saws?
Peter 1955 replied to drinksloe's topic in Forestry and Woodland management
Now I'm definitely not known for fitting every possible guard to every bit of every machine, but I wouldn't fancy using a strimmer without a guard. When you see our American friends on Youtube, they all seem to be unguarded as well. Give me a bump'n'Go with a guard on every time. Each to his own. -
My son bought the corded Makita ages ago. It has a 16" bar, and it can turn it with ease. On occasion, I have buried it in big logs, and it copes well. For what it does, I suppose a 14" bar would be better for what I do, but I've never felt the overwhelming need to change it. It hasn't half cut some timber! I would/will replace it with the same again, no doubt.
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I've been using a customer's Husqvarna rider with a flail on recently. Very capable piece of kit, nimble too. I'd rather spifflicate twenty acres of vegetation with that, than a strimmer!
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Best brush cutters/clearing saws?
Peter 1955 replied to drinksloe's topic in Forestry and Woodland management
I agree entirely. Was just thinking that this afternoon, while knocking down some long stuff. Once the blade is up to speed, it takes some stopping, while the line has virtually no momentum. -
Many thanks for your help, Alec, much appreciated. Looks like we have a plan to take forward.
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Absolutely. My son borrowed mine for a bit of aerial work, and was quite impressed.
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Pictures as requested. On closer inspection, the growth is mainly near the trunk. The dead branches are definitely dead, they just snap off. The leaves are curling up somewhat, which makes me wonder about aphids, or similar. Thanks for the advice so far.
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Although I'm by no means well informed ( hence asking the people on here who are ) my inclination was to prune it. I will snip a couple of dead looking ones to see what they look like when cut.
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I have found that my KM130 is fine with any of the blades I have fitted, but 2.7mm line can make it struggle a little, depending on what you're among. The KM100s aren't really man enough for that. I would expect anything over 40cc to cope easily, unless it's fitted with a cutting device that's seriously too big.
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Thank you for that, one or two things to check. Will try to get pics soon.
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Customer has an established Morello ( she says ) Cherry Tree in her garden. Around 3-4 metres high, maybe a little more. It's looked very poorly for a while, and now it's only got a minimal amount of growth/signs of life, including one bunch of potential cherries. Growth appears to be near branch ends. Trouble is, it's got loads of apparently dead branches. Big question is, do we leave it alone, or prune it back? If prune, how hard? Sorry I haven't taken picture, if it helps, I'll get one in a day or so. Thanks.
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No idea about the particular model, but could a bearing have seized? I've had machines do this after being stood for long periods, and engaging the drive results in stalled engines, or lots of belt squeaking.
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Our Charnwood inset boiler is the only heat source for the whole bungalow, and hot water. We have an electric shower, so don't need fire for that, and only use immersion very rarely for hot water. Looking good for next year's wood ( it's awaiting logging to length, splitting and stacking in shed ) but we've just about used two year's worth of wood in one, and have very little left ready to burn. A combination of a long cold spell or three, and the wife being home all day due to various flavours of lockdown have been disastrous. The stove will run on coal, which is a more attractive option than buying bags in from log suppliers, at the rate we are using it. It's been a blessed relief these past weeks, being able to reduce log usage, but I'm still lighting it every morning.
