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Dan Maynard

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Everything posted by Dan Maynard

  1. That does look like you could measure the coil gap with a tape measure!
  2. Do they? Once we're a day past the date shown on the planning portal I just crack on.
  3. What did they say? Have they TPO the conifers then or said something else off script?
  4. This is pretty much spot on. LA can either say nothing, say they don't object, or TPO the trees. If they say nothing after 6 weeks you are free to proceed.
  5. With the standard gauge semi chisel as well? That should be straightforward 4.8mm file.
  6. Can you post some close up pics of the chain after sharpening? It's got to be something, after all it's just a file which has angle, height, diameter. Not a million parameters to play with. Otherwise how are you doing the rakers, if the tooth is sharp but not biting because the raker is too tall then it might seem blunt.
  7. Looks like tomorrow it's going to be hot and wet.
  8. There were two sycamores on the village green opposite me, couple of years ago one of them suddenly decided to die. I couldn't see any particular reason to point to, it's on the edge of the brook so presumably not drought and the other one is still doing fine. I guess if you do the test and it's positive then at least you would know. Surely the glyphosate would have broken down by now though? Maybe just plant half a dozen eucalyptus instead.
  9. Don't have a 540 myself, but surely a chain is a chain. I would say the length of tooth isn't the critical thing so verniers aren't the answer. The two critical things are height of file relative to the top plate which creates the top plate (hook) angle, an the height of the depth gauge for each tooth. I tend to sharpen most chains freehand and then clean up for accuracy with a guide, but my 3/8lopro narrow I just freehand. I would just get a 4mm file, no guide and file till the hook looks right when you look across the chain, down the line of the file. You should get a half decent sharpen with just a file.
  10. It happened in the north east, so it can happen that you lose power for days or weeks.
  11. Depends what you're doing though, domestic tree surgery I can quite often use about a cupful in a day trimming bits and pieces. 100 litres would last me years. I used to get all mine from L&S as they did a multibuy discount on more than 4 cans which made buying 5l cans cheaper than a 20, but they've stopped that now.
  12. I was reading about summer branch drop, one of the problems they identified is that there is no clear and universal definition. The branch failed in the summer on a still hot day, not due to wind/storm/snow/ice etc loading so some would indeed call that summer branch drop. Others would say SBD is only those branches which looked perfect but suddenly fell off. My pondering is how much the moisture level in the tree changes in summer, if it goes down then shrinkage of the timber will be increasing the stress in unequal directions.
  13. ... and manageable chunks means that I can pick them up, not that you can pick them up. (or in this case the crane can pick them up)
  14. The best course of action for the hole (in my opinion) is do nothing, let it fill with stagnant water if it wants to. It will become anaerobic and slow down decay more than if you start doing anything like drain tubes or filling. I would take a step back from the tree though, maybe take some more photos, it might be a massively overstood pollard and so could benefit from being repollarded and then maintained as a pollard to reduce risk of future breakouts.
  15. I think June was deathly quiet, starting to get a trickle of enquiries now so I was getting a bit more optimistic. News outlets currently enjoying the gas and electric price increase to come so that's maybe spooking some people - certainly my Mrs is thinking about it and we have plenty of firewood.
  16. Get a couple of 5l tubs of chain oil, but probably go for 1litre 2 stroke oil - that'll make 51 litres of mix.
  17. As above, ring the DNO. I've done this on a few jobs and they are always helpful, after all they want everyone safe and the power to stay on. It's also really really important you identify the equipment correctly, chap in Scotland was killed not too long ago hedge trimming under 11kV lines with a long arm.
  18. If it's occasional use, I'd get the 25litre 2.5hp. Bigger tank will just mean waiting twice as long after you turn it on before it's up to usable pressure. Go for 2.5hp though because that will fill it up quicker.
  19. That's the fella. Have no idea why it looks the same from Husqvarna to Makita, my guess Makita started making them long ago before they did many chainsaws themselves.
  20. Work boots. Can't bring inside, don't want to leave em in the rain.
  21. I've seen my engineering business insurance go up, was 2.5k a few years ago and this year renewal looking like 10k. There's always a reason for it to go up but never seems to be a reason for it to go down.
  22. I can't see any reason to get an MSA300 for a few cuts a day. I think the best electric corded is the longitudinal motor model, seems same saw sold by either Husqvarna or Makita, 16" bar. It won't be as quick as it's only 2kW compared to 3kW from a 261 or 550.
  23. Maybe they had a lot of trouble with birds pecking the foil through. Or even fish or greengrocer deliveries?
  24. Also, if you know anyone with a lathe you could buy a beer for, it's about a hundred times easier to put bar in a lathe chuck and use tailstock die holder.
  25. I'd say brass can be funny stuff, not worked too much of it but the different grades are markedly different to try to cut. Also check the rod diameter, if it's 10mm nominal but actually a few tenths of a mm over this makes a huge difference to the work the die has to do. I suspect you may have a cheap die there, a good one will be split so you can adjust slightly, and start with it as open as possible to give lighter first cut.

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