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Dan Maynard

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Everything posted by Dan Maynard

  1. Do you mean charge to a customer, or charge as working for another tree firm?
  2. Honey fungus that I've seen has been in much larger groups than that. Did you see the fungus stem (has a proper name I don't remember) - did it have the characteristic ring? If you want to cut it then no harm, personally I wouldn't go overboard digging. Mulch the hornbeam, make sure it doesn't suffer drought stress
  3. You shouldn't really need primary air once the fire is going though, it's cold and doesn't help secondary burn above the wood. Get some different wood and sort the fire out first.
  4. Also fake stuff on eBay, I'd steer clear and use a reputable site or shop local.
  5. Split a log and test the centre, this is the only way to know if your logs are properly dried or have just been given a quick go in the kiln to dry the outside. Having said that, oak doesn't burn brilliantly on it's own so I'd suggest getting some other wood to mix it with. Either a lighter hardwood or some softwood.
  6. Ideally we'd see the needles in groups from close up to say cedar, then from further back for the form. Sometimes the branch shape is not obvious, then you can look at the cone shape to identify the type of cedar. Are you able to visit it again?
  7. Angle the cut on some, leave others level, and see if it makes any difference - I'm not convinced it will but the idea is persistent so would be great to do a test to compare. Please report back in a few years when the first ones are decaying.
  8. Wish I'd said sultana in the first place, to isolate the cause of all these puns.
  9. Why? It's not guaranteed to stay greasy, I'd rather have a plastic cage than bit of metal scraping around the end of the crankshaft. Likewise the rollers aren't too hard, you want them to absorb damage rather than the crank. I've often wondered about replacing the bearing with an igus bush but I think keeping the same clearance over the temperature range could be a problem.
  10. I'd be interested in the answer, I'm on VT too as seemed like everything else I tried would bind up sooner or later. I think people do use Knut for less sitback on SRT.
  11. I think it was FRJones I saw had this on offer a while back but they all sold pretty fast so missed it. Guess it's sort of obsolete with the new .325 narrow chain but as you say, at this price it's really a free bar and sprocket.
  12. That's a good idea, I bought a secondhand Mak 9010 which had a knackered oil pump and the needle bearing was also melted. As above, this bearing only sees motion when the saw is idling so shouldn't get hot. When you cut the clutch grips and the outside and inside go round together. I think the early 261 were said to be down to oval hole in the drum rather than oval crank, but the effect of eating bearings was the same. Thinking if you've changed the drum might be the issue?
  13. And you say the saw is years old so something has definitely changed. Have you recently changed the chain, bar, sprocket or clutch drum?
  14. No, didn't think of those. Cheese is traditional (always worked on Tom and Jerry) but the bits would break when I tried tying tight so always just disappeared. Chocolate was the other idea but hard to spike on to the trap, didn't try too hard as I'd rather eat the chocolate myself. Once I found currants never needed to try anything else.
  15. Is it dragging on the brake band? Maybe just insufficient cleaning and chip build up? Must be a cause, something is different about the saw or the way you use it, else it would behave the same as all the other people not having this problem.
  16. I used to put traps before we had cats, now we're down to one cat and it's getting old I may have to start again. My problem was usually the bait disappearing without tripping, had fairly ordinary wooden spring traps so I'd put a currant and tie it on with cotton. Usually get a few mice with the same currant.
  17. My JoBeau is 24hp which is rated to chip 120mm, I wouldn't make a video of it because I never do it. That size slows the engine, there's no stress control so you have to pull it back yourself to allow the speed to build up. Can do it for a few bits but not productive really. Wood above about 80mm gets cut to cord and taken away like that. If there's a lot of cord on a big dismantle then hire in a bigger chipper.
  18. Where's it going to snap next? Looks like they have earned their money, how old are they?
  19. That rope is on the thin side, I'd say 8mm most likely. I'd buy a few metres of a few types and knot them, only way to find out really. Length you need depends on the hitch you decide on.
  20. Surely he doesn't need the stabiliser with Aspen? I thought motomix has ultra oil in, interesting if it's not.
  21. Reading this I was thinking about that bloke in Tasmania, they do some massive trees but he made a right drama out of rigging a small tree to miss a shed. Different skill set.
  22. This HC was apparently hit by lightning, the major limbs fell and all except one sprouted. As far as I can tell they must have rooted because the limb back to main trunk are rotting away.
  23. I think it's a really interesting idea and potentially good way to differentiate your products. As I have Will the 24" be 0.050 ? Seems narrow for the longer bars. The there's the changeover from.325 to 3/8?
  24. I was thinking if you do a lot of commercial work. I don't, but do find parish councils have their own timescale for paying.
  25. I guess ultimately you need to discuss it with the customer and agree an approach. They may be happier if you remove all grindings, and certainly no harm in it, I'm just not convinced it'll make that much difference going forward. The fungus will be spread well outside the grind area anyway.

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