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Dan Maynard

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Everything posted by Dan Maynard

  1. I still don't think it's honey fungus. The odd fruiting body can be from anything, remember fungal spores are everywhere. Cherry roots tend to be huge, if you're determined to dig it's going to be a big job. I'd consider getting someone in to grind it, unless you have the digger anyway it's probably cheaper than a days hire.
  2. Sole trader is easier to set up and run, there is now much less tax advantage to being ltd. In my opinion it makes a lot of sense to sole trade for a year or two while you get going, if it's all going well after that then get a proper accountant to advise and help with tax anyway, they'll save you money.
  3. Looks like pop to me too. I usually nod and say, well there are loads of different kinds and they hybridise so actually very difficult to identify in the field..... (works for willow too)
  4. Musings, think the C stands for company in PLC too.
  5. Depends where you are in the country too, Woodworks I think is in Devon, I'm in East Anglia and I've never bothered with lids or hats as we don't get much rain.
  6. Whenever I hear of people falling I want to know detail so I can avoid the same problem, but it always seems hard to get any. Seems like the learning is hard to share.
  7. I looked above the bench and thought that's a lot of chain, then realised Stihl department was below and there's even more there!
  8. Watch them , sometimes it's 30% off RRP. Nobody sells at RRP anyway so turns out not such a bargain.
  9. Ha ha, so sick of finding washing line, nails, stones, bike chain, wire etc in garden trees I would only run semi on my 261.
  10. Pretty sure there's both full and semi now in the new narrow.
  11. Do you mean charge to a customer, or charge as working for another tree firm?
  12. Honey fungus that I've seen has been in much larger groups than that. Did you see the fungus stem (has a proper name I don't remember) - did it have the characteristic ring? If you want to cut it then no harm, personally I wouldn't go overboard digging. Mulch the hornbeam, make sure it doesn't suffer drought stress
  13. You shouldn't really need primary air once the fire is going though, it's cold and doesn't help secondary burn above the wood. Get some different wood and sort the fire out first.
  14. Also fake stuff on eBay, I'd steer clear and use a reputable site or shop local.
  15. Split a log and test the centre, this is the only way to know if your logs are properly dried or have just been given a quick go in the kiln to dry the outside. Having said that, oak doesn't burn brilliantly on it's own so I'd suggest getting some other wood to mix it with. Either a lighter hardwood or some softwood.
  16. Ideally we'd see the needles in groups from close up to say cedar, then from further back for the form. Sometimes the branch shape is not obvious, then you can look at the cone shape to identify the type of cedar. Are you able to visit it again?
  17. Angle the cut on some, leave others level, and see if it makes any difference - I'm not convinced it will but the idea is persistent so would be great to do a test to compare. Please report back in a few years when the first ones are decaying.
  18. Wish I'd said sultana in the first place, to isolate the cause of all these puns.
  19. Why? It's not guaranteed to stay greasy, I'd rather have a plastic cage than bit of metal scraping around the end of the crankshaft. Likewise the rollers aren't too hard, you want them to absorb damage rather than the crank. I've often wondered about replacing the bearing with an igus bush but I think keeping the same clearance over the temperature range could be a problem.
  20. I'd be interested in the answer, I'm on VT too as seemed like everything else I tried would bind up sooner or later. I think people do use Knut for less sitback on SRT.
  21. I think it was FRJones I saw had this on offer a while back but they all sold pretty fast so missed it. Guess it's sort of obsolete with the new .325 narrow chain but as you say, at this price it's really a free bar and sprocket.
  22. That's a good idea, I bought a secondhand Mak 9010 which had a knackered oil pump and the needle bearing was also melted. As above, this bearing only sees motion when the saw is idling so shouldn't get hot. When you cut the clutch grips and the outside and inside go round together. I think the early 261 were said to be down to oval hole in the drum rather than oval crank, but the effect of eating bearings was the same. Thinking if you've changed the drum might be the issue?
  23. And you say the saw is years old so something has definitely changed. Have you recently changed the chain, bar, sprocket or clutch drum?
  24. No, didn't think of those. Cheese is traditional (always worked on Tom and Jerry) but the bits would break when I tried tying tight so always just disappeared. Chocolate was the other idea but hard to spike on to the trap, didn't try too hard as I'd rather eat the chocolate myself. Once I found currants never needed to try anything else.
  25. Is it dragging on the brake band? Maybe just insufficient cleaning and chip build up? Must be a cause, something is different about the saw or the way you use it, else it would behave the same as all the other people not having this problem.

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