Dan Maynard
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Everything posted by Dan Maynard
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Rope runner pro (CE vs Non-CE version)
Dan Maynard replied to Dan F.'s topic in SRT (Single Rope Technique)
I can't see that you could CE mark it, it's got that serial number. I think the only chance is to talk to the manufacturer and get a letter from them stating that all the parts are the same so it could carry the mark. Or, if you are self employed then you can choose to use non CE kit - some people climb on non CE rope and harnesses imported from the US, or the Bulldog bone for example. -
LOLER Inspection required for Climbing kit(Norfolk NR31)
Dan Maynard replied to Gordon S's topic in Maintenance help
Are you friendly with any bigger outfits around you? The most economical way is get a group together so there are a few kits and then invite one of the travelling guys like Simon from Bowline. Otherwise there are a few that will inspect if you send it in, even FRJones but I have always been bit nervous about packing and sending all my gear like that. Some of the training places do inspection too, maybe worth asking the nearest ones how they get theirs done. -
Felling license clarity
Dan Maynard replied to Dillinger86's topic in Forestry and Woodland management
Maybe the public can't see them anyway so no loss of amenity. -
I use birch bark mostly, much much better than paper.
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Felling license clarity
Dan Maynard replied to Dillinger86's topic in Forestry and Woodland management
... or as joined up as "sorry that's not my department" -
Chainsaw boots and trousers are kind of non issue, go out wearing those in the morning. Helmets are a thing. I keep mine on most of the day because otherwise I forget where I left it and get annoyed wandering round to find it. I have worked with people who take helmet off at any opportunity, which is bad because the most common accident I've seen on site after silky cut is wood dropping out of trees onto heads.
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I do think it's going to be like fuel injection on cars though, at first people hated it because it was unreliable and expensive but now it's totally taken for granted. I have mtronic MS201T and it's great, absolutely no trouble with tuning, idle or starting and it's 4 or 5 years old now. The previous MS200 were great performers but tricky carbs.
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More hedge work than grass cutting available this time of year. It's not a bad place to start though, you'll be meeting lots of people who you can go back to for tree work later.
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Felling license clarity
Dan Maynard replied to Dillinger86's topic in Forestry and Woodland management
Just rereading the guidance and even if you do it gradually at 5cu a quarter the onus is on you to prove no more than 5 was felled in any one quarter if they should investigate afterwards. As above, I would definitely stop and get in touch with FC. -
Nah, my wallet would crumble and turn to dust if it saw daylight. Besides I emptied it buying the slab table as well.
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Chainsaw trousers for a lady!
Dan Maynard replied to organic guy's topic in Forestry and Woodland management
Groundie working for me bought some chainsaw trouser for £40 on offer, they do tear if you stare at them too hard. I think you need to go up from the very cheapest or they won't last at all in thorn and bramble. -
Probably after "oh that's let the light in" and "doesn't it look a lot on the ground" the most common thing I get asked about is sharpening. When I show them a file and say not too tricky they tend to look at me like I'm doing black magic. Some take them to dealer to get ground, some buy cheapest on eBay and bin when they really do stop cutting.
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Closer to the truth. You can sort of get away with the idea on a topper though, they take so long to blunt.
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Was that secondhand? £14 seems too good to be true, that's 1/3 off the big online sellers like chainsdirect.
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The Rock seem well used. There are then a few other "good" brands if you don't want to go cheaper. Oxdale, AMR (Fuelwood near Warwick), Balfor, Posch (JPWilson). I ended up with Posch, they pallet shipped it from Scotland, it's been a good machine.
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Although Stihl say start with a 5.2 anyway. As FRJones sent me 6 boxes of 5.2 files instead of 6 individual files a few years ago that's what I do.
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I've bought the accessory Muck Truck towbar, fits to the front of the skip on pins. It says rated to 2ton trailer, although I've never tried to use it for that weight - imagine the wheels would spin.
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Looks like cast iron too?
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Felling license clarity
Dan Maynard replied to Dillinger86's topic in Forestry and Woodland management
Is it a garden ? Are you going to fell them all at once? The LPA permission should be 2 years so don't need to, if you stay below quarterly allowance then no need for felling licence. So, it depends. -
Interesting you put part worn chain up, I have a theory the reason people say chain cuts faster as you get towards the end of life is that the kerf gets narrower.
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I think some of the Oregon confusion is that they make two types of .325 0.050 chain - 20BPX and 95TXL. The 20BPX is what they call standard kerf and similar to the type 21 and 22 which are .058 and .063 The 95TXL is "Speedcut" which is matched with Speedcut bars and is their "narrow kerf" system. I've not used it but Oregon seem pretty clear it cuts a narrower slot in the wood. The bars and chains have a special logo to differentiate. Stihl used .063 for their bars until the Light04 which was introduced with a new narrow kerf .050 chain. Personally I think they were forced to do this because Husqvarna had previously brought out their own SP33G narrow kerf system so the 550XP was cutting faster than standard MS261.
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Stihl website Its narrower saw kerf enables the .325" Pro to achieve up to 20% better cutting performance in comparison with the previous .325" saw chains in this drive link thickness.
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Of course there is. I didn't say it was easy just that a lot of the worst graft can be avoided, eg I don't hump timber out of gardens any more now I have a power barrow.
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Width of the whole thing, importantly the width of the cut is narrower so it takes less energy to cut. Hence same engine power cuts faster.
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A lot of firms use freelance here and there so could easily work. A tracked grinder is the way to go really, hydraulic takes the manual work out which you'll need if you are going to run it days at a time.
