Dan Maynard
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Everything posted by Dan Maynard
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I think hp per kg is the fundamental. More RPM means more power in general, and in this case the difference is enough to overturn the better efficiency of the 4 mix. You could run a saw at 7000rpm with a bigger sprocket, if you had the hp at that engine speed.
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Yeah I guess it would, just thinking unless you do something about the sharp end then it's always going to need a certain amount of power. On consideration I suspect the friction against the bar is not that much, even running a 261 which is near 3kW power would get the bar hot really quickly if a significant percentage of power was going in to heat. Hence blueing the bar when lubrication fails. Other thing is in general chains are pretty efficient for power transmission, region of 98%. Not that much gain available.
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Actually this threads reminded me I need to drain out some of my saw tanks into glass jars, following the last aspen/fuel/ethanol discussion we had.
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.. and unlike electronics where energy consumption has been reduced, motor efficiency is already very good and it takes a certain amount of energy to rip the wood open. We need a more fundamental change like roller chain to get rid of bar friction, or different shape teeth.
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It's still pretty useless for builders with a transit tipper of sand. 3.5t panel vans make more sense I guess. Was it a European unification of rules thing? Think when I was a lad the 3.5t didn't really exist, a 3t truck was 3t empty, sort of equivalent of a 7.5t now.
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I was messing around volunteering in the woods on Thursday and used 4 tanks of fuel in my 261, you'd need more than 2 batteries for that. I love climbing with battery saws but switch to petrol when it gets to the bigger cuts. I just don't think there's enough energy in a battery to compete with petrol.
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I'm a bit confused, the top of the taper out of the stove looks parallel to the end of the tube. Is it meant to be like that? So that condensate runs together to one side or something? If it's a decent installer then ask them about it.
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That's a good shout, like to see the bark on stem too really.
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Also add to the list a few Lyon slings, few steel biners, ISC 70kN pulley for redirects.
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This is what I like about the Treerunner, but it's smaller and lighter so easy one person setup. I have that, 12 and 14mm lines and haven't ever needed anything bigger. I do live in the land of small trees though.
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Wonder if that's Chinese rip off of Makita as been around for a while, or if Makita are licensing the design as a way to make money now they've stopped production anyway...
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Oh and I would suggest Treerunner small bollard, looks like Stein have brought out a small SMB1000 which is competitive with it. IMO much nicer to use than a flying capstan like the RC2000.
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It depends of course what trees you work on, but I'd start with a lighter line and only go 16mm when you really need it - just heavy and less efficient to work with on smaller stuff.
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I can believe the big rings are beech, thought it looked like pop bark on the left. I've got some half rotted beech, soaks water like a sponge. You're right though, how will we ever know we got it right?
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Sharp nobbly bits where the bark has fallen off, went rotten as left in rings, looks like poplar to me.
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I bought a 10 pack from Datatag, was just over £100 for what I figured about 6 grand of kit labelled, so all the saw serial numbers are registered with them. Having diligently collected and filed all those details I forgot about arbsafe but it would obviously be an indoor job to register on there. It is frustrating, when you see the pictures of tools at the car boot sales and know a good portion of that must be nicked.
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There's still a few Makita EA5000 around, not mtronic. At the moment still ok for spares but they have stopped production. Don't have one myself but the people who like them really like them. I am of the view autotune is like fuel injection on cars was in the 70s and 80s - when it first came out was unreliable and treated with great suspension since you couldn't adjust it. Nowadays people wouldn't know how to balance a pair of SU's, fuel injection is taken for granted.
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I had it done at local independent LR specialist, hopefully he used quality parts as he's generally good and knows what lasts as been doing it a long time.
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I had to have a swivel rebuilt on the Defender last week, bit of a deep breath but at least I know that's fixed. This adblue seems to be a gift that just keeps on giving!
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That's what I remember you saying. At a rough guess pruning enough to reduce the seed problem means chopping them in half, they won't like that but may be better short term than removal.
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They don't like to be pruned but you can do it, potentially you ruin the shape and start a cycle of decay leading to the ultimate demise of the tree in 20 years. IMO the issue with pruning is that you probably won't solve the problem, half the number of seeds would still be enough to be a nuisance. So longer term answer would be get planting a replacement tree which is further away from the house and cars, looks like your garden is big enough. Then take that one down in a few years time. Shorter term I guess carport, gutter guards, whatever you can build to keep seeds at bay. I believe @spudulike has similar trees at home.
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Around a third of the weight you're holding is water that needs to leave, through flow of air is vital for drying. If you can take out windows and/or doors then could be ok but a closed garage will just get really damp all round.
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Google has indexed arbtalk, so maybe some of the visitors are people who search a question there and get pointed straight to the answer? No need to post the question again then.
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.. and you were going to scrap the saw on page 2! Good job, well done.
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4x4 with 3.5t trailer is the biggest legal payload without going O license etc, challenge is what to do for a chipper and the fact that as a combination it's huge. Fine around the villages but rubbish in town, can't get it in quite a few driveways.
