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Dan Maynard

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Everything posted by Dan Maynard

  1. I'd take 20% cut speed increase on my 201.
  2. Dan Maynard

    Loler

    My kits being done in a couple of weeks, that is Cambridgeshire. Pretty sure Simon at Bowline is coming up to do them, guess he'd be happy to add jobs while he's up here. Worth speaking to him anyway as he does travel.
  3. Shorter answer, yes you would be fine with the 2 in 1. The angle is created by the file being the right distance below the top plate, too high and you get a flat front to the tooth, too low and the top of the tooth is too much of a hook. The 2 in 1 is resting on the top plate so it can only create the right angle, it's built in to the guide (as long as you hold steady and don't bend the file by pushing too hard). I don't use them but these things have a place, give it a few strokes to sharpen as soon as the edge starts to go, maybe every 2 or 3 tanks of fuel, rather than letting the chain blunt and then doing a massive amount of work filing. Just like a penknife, easier and better to keep it sharp with a little and often than let it ever get blunt.
  4. I was wondering if saws would be a good analogy - the alpine would be a silky because it can do everything, but hard work. Pedestrian 13hp like a 50cc, pedestrian 27hp like a 70cc and tracked like a 90cc saw. Then ask which saw should you buy first. Probably a 50 or 70cc, middle range is more useful and less painful if needed to stretch to cover a bigger job.
  5. You are correct, generally the file size is based on pitch but also gauge and manufacturer. That file is marked 3/8P, which is the thin gauge low profile Stihl chain rather than full size 3/8. It's a 4.0mm file, I would say it'll be fine. Within reason the file size is not too important when using a file guide like this, the important thing is the angle on the top face created by the slope on the file, which means how far below the top plate the file is working. For example Oregon recommend 4.5 other 3/8P chain (90vxl) but Stihl recommend 4.0, i haven't got any 4.5 files so I use 4.0 and it cuts just fine. Other thing is depth gauge on the tooth but more or less every chain is set to the same 0.025" so you have that covered in the 2 in 1.
  6. It's pretty long in the tooth, could either be wear or someone mis-fuelled it. Assuming it's similar inside to the 461 it should be a good saw.
  7. Brexit. Then, yes. Now, maybe.
  8. Problem is the days that you aren't charging that money. When I have a 1200 day it's because the job is big, so I hire in a couple of mates and they bring truck and chipper. I wouldn't want to be paying hire fees every day when starting out. Other thing with buying a van, if it doesn't work out you sell it again. As above, if I were you I'd buy a van and then hire in a chipper only when needed.
  9. Think Oregon do a boot care kit, I had one free from FRJones a few years ago. Not had heavy use to be fair so can't comment on effectiveness.
  10. Best arm protection is to hold on to both handles on the saw. I've seen some sleeves which are against brambles thorn etc but not saw protection.
  11. How recently do you mean they changed it? Maybe 6 months ago it was updated but there's still a step in the process to upload pictures.
  12. Makita have brought out a 40v single battery saw, think that's probably the closest competitor to the Echo. Haven't had one on the scales yet.
  13. It seems like the Stihl ones are 3M compatible, so you can fit those to Protos or Petzl with adaptors, but difficult to go the other way because the Protos mounts are something unique and unusual so little demand. Think you may be out of luck. To me, seems like the Stihl comms are the ones to get now but obviously too late for that suggestion.
  14. Found the thread
  15. I got involved in that, if I recall the Stihl comms are 3M fitting which is not normal on the Petzl, but we did find some way to do it. I'll try to look it up. Not sure that's going to help with Protos comm though as they seem to have their own muff mount for the slimline original ones.
  16. Get a pair of these.
  17. Don't get why holding on to the return makes any difference to the tax, this is transactions which ended last April. Don't like QuickBooks but FreeAgent works for me and is free. Send invoices from the app, check off against automatic bank feed as they come in. Pay from bank account, photo receipts as they come in. When I need the numbers for the tax return, click "tax summary" any time from April onwards and there they all are. If I didn't have another business I'd just click "send to HMRC" and not go near the gov website. Accountant can swivel, app is better.
  18. If you're trying to run off 12v then you kind of need short wires, normal solution there is attach the winch to the vehicle. Otherwise you're going to have to carry the battery around which is less portable.
  19. Fair play, if you've tried it and it's worked then why not. Think anything is worth a shot before scrapping the cylinder.
  20. On the 391 I'm not sure you'll have much luck with Loctite as the temperature is too high, the glue is basically plastic. Could try different bolts so the surface hopefully sticks, maybe black oxide or even stainless as they seem to take root when you don't want them to. Also thought maybe exhaust assembly paste would handle the heat but be removable. Otherwise if the option is scrapping the saw then glue the screws in with plenty of high temperature JB weld, probably never get them out but how often do you really need to take the exhaust off a saw anyway?
  21. On reflection I think this might be right. The obsessive quality engineering and reduction in part count has had a massive positive impact on reliability, the Japanese methods of the 80s which made British cars look terrible have spread throughout the industry. Problem nowadays is that feature count has gone up so part count has climbed too. More parts just means more to go wrong, it's really inevitable. Our two main cars are 2010 and 2014 and both well over 100k miles and really had nothing but wear parts. I don't really want to buy a new diesel with Adblue, heard too many stories of trouble.
  22. I think Tesla do something like this too.
  23. Little bit bigger, little bit heavier, LOT more power!
  24. I'm size 13 which is bad enough, 15 is getting on there. I will be shocked if Oregon come close, cheap boots never go to the bigger sizes as sales volumes too low. Airstreams used to be pretty much the only choice and I reckon are still the most widely stocked in big sizes, looks like you can get a 51 from Honeybros. Haix have started going bigger but looks like only up to 14. Only other one I know is special order Pfanner leather boots, Tirol I think. They're going to be more expensive than the Airstreams though.
  25. It's a lot cheaper and easier to make a screen than all the switches and buttons. Less wiring and installation costs, easier to update, lots of advantages to the manufacturer. In industrial control panels we mostly dumped the array of buttons about 30 years ago but keep a few for common quick tasks. I don't think they are too safe either, touch is important feedback. Hopefully putting everything on touchscreen will go the way of square steering wheels and horizontal scale speedometers and be consigned to the bin but not convinced.

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