Dan Maynard

Maybe put some pictures up? Reclaimed beams can be very hard on bands and also contain nails so not very appealing stuff to work with. Other way is approach some millers yourself https://sawmillers.co.uk/

That's a good shout. Wonder if I can find a scrap Caravan anywhere nearby. Aluminium would need to be hard anodised, my fear would be electrolytic corrosion around fasteners when it gets wet with soapy water. The great thing about galvanised roofing sheet with zinc plated screws everything would be the same corrosion potential. I think it would last ok, especially if you take care to paint the cuts and holes to prevent water getting at the bare steel on the edges. Ideally don't let the zinc touch the stainless shower tray. Obviously the ideal will be to get the thing dried out as soon as your shower is finished, won't corrode when it's dry.

Is that hydraulic? Presumably that limits the hp going to the machine, compared to PTO shaft on a tractor?

Fastfix are having a sale on, EA4300 at £295 and EA5000 at £460. Really tempted, it's so much less money than a 261. Slightly down on power, 2.8kW vs the 3.0kW of the 261 but can fit an exhaust from the previous model to get rid of cat. Then again my old 261 keeps on going and it's been a good saw. But at least I know not to buy an Echo.

Better to clean it first, yes. White spirit and toothbrush, WD40 will probably work but obviously more expensive. Ideally an airline to blow the crud out too.

My opinion would be the dead bark is a symptom of something going on, rather than the actual problem. My suspicion would be root damage, 8 years would be the right kind of time for it to show, and as said the reduction not helping. Id be digging to check but it looks like you may have dead roots all round that side of the tree, in which case yes it's terminal and possibly unstable already.

You know it's not that common though.

I was thinking either power rangers or Spiderman....

What about that chap on Etsy who makes rope bags, he could knock you one up? Tesco bag for life does me day to day, my truck isn't very tidy tbf.

I'm in East Anglia never cover the logs for seasoning, just put enough in the woodshed to keep dry as I'm using through winter. They season perfectly well outside but do get coloured, so if you want tip top product to sell then covering is probably better. Danger of covering is of course holding moisture in so ideally some air space above the logs to let the wind blow through. Maybe as you've Welsh in your username you should be covering with something.

There's plenty of work around at the moment, if you have experience I would try ringing some firms up because you can still work under supervision before you get the tickets - should be able to pick up days here and there. You're a bit far from me unfortunately.

I can't see you getting any money out of the hotel, if they won't clear a hanger out of a tree above the customers then some branches that might one day do something are surely lower priority. Also, would have thought hotel likely to have used up cash reserves due to last 2 years being short on customers.

Also functionally the double fisherman's is the most compact, secure without a backup stopper, and cinched down onto the crab is not adding slack to your system so you drop less after pulling the slack out. Or simple answer that's the way I was taught. If you're making prussic loops then double fisherman's is secure and I believe the only approved knot. Friction cord diameter is a trade-off on usability and grip as 8mm is plenty thick enough to take the weight. Thicker is a bit easier to hold, may be smoother, but in general you want the cord thinner than the main rope else the knots don't sit evenly. So I climb on 12.7 rope because I find it easier to grip, with a 10mm friction cord, works nicely. Some of the modern ropes are down to 11mm diameter, would be better with the thinner cord. Can also be a factor on the space for the knots, I have 8mm on my lanyard with a pinto pulley. In the end there are too many combinations possible, some work better than others with different knots and you just need to try a few. This is either fantastic because you can find a lovely smooth combination that you can tune for your own weight and style, or a complete pain in the backside, depending on how you look at it.

I use a pole pruner a lot, it can save a lot of climbing on reductions and a longer pole is useful for that, but what you are asking about is slightly different. Personally I'd say more than 4m and you don't want to be doing much sawing with it due to the weight and awkwardness, but in general you are safer with a pole saw than working off a ladder because you've got space on the ground to get out of the way. I'd go for silky zubat pole as a simple pole with a good saw blade on, light and not too long, same spare blade as the handsaw. As long as the branches aren't thicker than say 3 or 4 inches that will be fine. The other types of pole are then about longer saw blade or longer pole.

Sorry for this mate, it is crap and I know every time you improve the security they break the next thing. I've put bars on the windows at my unit, they broke the door, security door they broke that, put shutters on the doors and they've climbed on the roof and gone through the cladding at the back so I'll put some reinforcement behind it and see what happens next. I think I'm lucky they haven't actually taken much away, this time the alarm was going so they left after a couple of minutes. On the bright side I had a burglary detective call and come to see what happened, so CCTV does seem to be worthwhile as they got recorded over by the pub where they had parked their van.

Big fan of my Muck Truck, doesn't care if it's up hill or down and with greedy boards has bigger capacity than normal barrow. Bang for buck it's a brilliant bit of machinery.

I usually reckon on about 0.5-0.6m gone in a pair of double fisherman's onto the crab plus 0.7-0.9 to make the knot so if you buy 2m you can try it, or get 5m and cut 1.5m off to start. Gustharts, honeys etc sell friction cord by the metre, I'm usually using the cheap stuff £2 ish per metre as it lasts me the 6 months between LOLER and then bin. Teufelberger Sirius, Marlow boa, Yale silver Streak etc.

The vents don't close completely so that you have to keep the burn going nice and hot. In general if you close down so the stove is slumbering then the flue temperature drops, you deposit tars in the chimney, and your particulate emissions soar so it's all round a pretty bad idea on a wood burner.

Thats where semi chisel chain would be a winner.

Brampton Valley Training in Towcester, give them a ring they are friendly and have a chat or pop in to the office. That's what I did in the first place, about 6 years ago and now I've done a load of courses with them. The starting point for nearly everything NPTC is the maintenance/cross cut/felling up to 380mm which is a 5 day course, plus a day for assessment if you want the ticket after. It's still known as CS30/31 but the numbers actually changed a while ago.

Ow!

Or you have kids of mowing age. Sadly my eldest has gone to university so this summer might be time for a change.....

Got to find one to buy, too - not that easy.

Doesn't sound like you have anything to gain by quoting the oak, if I have this right he's asking for another 200 but has nothing to base that on? If it were mine I'd do nothing and tell him to direct correspondence to my solicitor, I guess being US he might try to sue you for the 200 but how will he win that? The more you talk to him the more dodgy it gets, in my opinion.

Where do you buy files from?