Dan Maynard
-
Posts
4,932 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
4
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Classifieds
Tip Site Directory
Blogs
Articles
News
Arborist Reviews
Arbtalk Knot Guide
Gallery
Store
Freelancers directory
Everything posted by Dan Maynard
-
You probably need cover then, and ideally find a windy spot so it's always blowing through the stack. I have a woodshed down the side of the garage which is a bit of a wind tunnel, something like that. Moving the damp air away from the logs is key. I think people do build dehumidifier kilns, but evaporating water takes a lot of energy so kiln drying is expensive.
-
You might start with something like a Bandit ZT1844, think then bit less than 20k. Not a super strong machine but hydraulic head means you're not physically pushing the cutter yourself.
-
Bit like a piece of string, depends on the weather. Most Octobers not much drying but with this heat and wind they will be. Rough rule of thumb maybe, as a starter for discussion, wood can season in 4-6 weeks in optimal conditions outside, which means summer heat and wind. If you do something like heat and forced ventilation in a polytunnel, then quicker. Depends where you are in the country too, I'm in East Anglia which is dry.
-
I have got a Sachs Dolmar 112 which says on it to mix 25:1, it's quite smoky if you actually do though.
-
Good point, still got all the roots there hasn't it?
-
I think you'll find the cutting performance of both the smaller saws underwhelming on a big dismantle. What about a 194T? Smaller and lighter than a 201 but more power than a pruning saw.
-
That's what I mean, can't see it working. The rain isn't constant, and nor is the water demand of a tree.
-
This. If I'd realised how much I'd use the battery toppers I think I'd have stumped up the extra for the Echo first. It depends what work you do a lot of though, I seem to do loads of small reductions and hedge work, so no desire for the extra weight and cutting speed of the Husky 540i. Once it gets to blocking down I just switch to petrol 201.
-
Exactly, no need to continue using his services.
-
Dismantle MEWP and take it through the house. Other sensible suggestions on a postcard to .......
-
I've got a 150T with exhaust mod, I think good little saw and boringly reliable. There are a lot more 'how to tune a 2511' threads on arbtalk than for the 150 by a mile, seems 2511 is great but can get unstable and annoying when worn.
-
There is money in stumps, but the problem for you there would be most firms own their own small grinder so the ones you could sensibly do with that one are likely not up for grabs. Where people like me hire in is bigger or multiple stumps, but then you're into much more money for the machine and if it's not out regularly not earning it's keep.
-
Low cost option for the insurance company to make it look so crap the owners pay to have it removed. I don't get the idea really that you can just balance the amount of tree to give just the right amount of water extraction from the ground to halt subsidence. Last few years have been really really dry, subsidence claims have rocketed.
-
I reckon the other problem with a chain sharpening service is that DIY people will send you totally mangled chains and expect you to magically fix them on the machine.
-
Election coming up? Launch a load of policies which sound great, grab headlines, and get loyal party supporters all excited. After election, bin the ones which aren't practical. No chance of any government being in power long enough to carry this through.
-
chainsawbars
-
I forgot to say, not really seen it on sycamore but seen ash do something a bit similar, which I've always assumed was canker.
-
I'd go 461, solid repairable long lasting saw which I'd say is a better bet second hand. For your elbow I'd prescribe an MS400 though, on a 20" you'll use it more than you think even when the alternative is a 461 because it's so much lighter.
-
Usually Someone Else's Problem, makes something invisible to most people when an SEP field is around an object. Not sure that applies here though.
-
Ringing up RobD
-
As above I'll change a plug when it's not starting as clean. Difficult to compare service intervals with domestic tree surgery though, none of my saws run every day, and quite a few days doing hedge or silky only reduction don't use a chainsaw at all. Do you have a quieter season cutting like over the summer? I guess in your case the cost would be in being miles from anywhere when the saw won't start, better to chuck in new plug and filters once a year anyway so they never cause a problem.
-
Finance company have 'forgotten' to take a deposit
Dan Maynard replied to Clutchy's topic in General chat
I just always have this feeling with finance and banks that if you make a mistake it's your fault, and if they make a mistake it's also your fault for not spotting it. Just my paranoia. Bit like when mortgage company gives a special deal, they always win in the end. I don't trust em. -
I can only think of a few things that can slacken the chain - wear (mainly when it's new), heat, or the powerhead rocking forward on the bar slots. If it's getting tight and slack on its own then temperature seems likely , so not oiling properly seems a good candidate but also there is more friction in the plain nosed bar. Have you got another bar? In be really good to run it with a roller nosed bar even if it's only 36" crosscutting to see all is well doing that.
-
True, I guess there are some people round here i know and trust , some I don't know...
-
Have you got an easy yard to tip at? Maybe other nearby firms would tip you off more arb waste if it saves them running around.
