Dan Maynard
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Everything posted by Dan Maynard
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Wow, even better plan.
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Sell it for 200 quid?
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What are the proper legal checks before removal
Dan Maynard replied to BigDan's topic in Trees and the Law
As said, it's not a garden so that exclusion on felling license does not apply. If it's "some trees" you could exceed the amount to require it. -
He posted on the digger thread the other day @aspenarb
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Had to open the case on mine recently to change the trigger switch, just a good blow out of sawdust seems all you can do in that side.
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Reckon my Makita battery saw has a drive shaft like that but the sprocket is separate to the brake drum. If you were really brave/skilled maybe you could grind that sprocket off and braze a new one on?
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Help with Moisture Content meaning and calcs needed.
Dan Maynard replied to BeePeeAitch's topic in Firewood forum
This bit however might get you laughed out of town, willow is great to burn when dry. -
Most disgraceful customer supplied refreshments.
Dan Maynard replied to Mick Dempsey's topic in General chat
I usually ask for tea as I think it's more reliable, but the other day we had one where I wasn't sure if the customer had used UHT milk, oat milk, or just gone off milk. Both of us tried it but dumped it behind the garage. -
I don't think the Echo are as reliable, but for the amount of work it will do and what they cost people put up with that and replace when needed. It's not a 660, don't plan on keeping a saw like that forever. The other serious option is the Echo2500T , but if you're in bigger trees and going through several tanks a day with your 151 then I think you will find battery life an issue.
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The wheels will fall off the Dacia much sooner.
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Beech Hedge Reduction - Shears and Secateurs
Dan Maynard replied to Gardenscape's topic in General chat
I ordered a maul from amazon.de before Brexit, don't think that works now. Wouldn't have thought of amazon.jp ,maybe they have Silky cheaper too? -
I've heard that's what it's always like working in Sweden. Not been there meself yet.......
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Scammer?
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Do you get the max performance with the smaller batteries?
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Love the chainsaw in the foreground sat motionless, as a symbol of the old ways. Like a tractor ploughing in a field next to horses.
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This was going to be my advice, though I don't think you can send in to Harry Hill and get £200 any more.
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I think call rather than email, not liking written communications is one of the things that pushes people into arb in the first place. The other thing I'd do is ask around and keep asking your network of family friends and acquaintances if they know someone who is a tree surgeon. When I was starting I got the same 'need experience' from the firm who had a yard in my village, but a friend of a friend had a small local firm a bit further away. I still do 1 day a week there 7 years later.
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I think you're right to be concerned, large areas of bark flaking off is not a good sign, but advice from photos is really that you need to have someone competent in to visit and make a proper assessment. I think the water probably does funnel down that way but unlikely to be the cause of the problem. My guess would be heat from a fire, you don't need to get bark very hot to kill off the cambium layer just under the surface.
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Just reading this again it doesn't say battery or mains in the original post. My battery saw has a brake with a band and spring, and a cutout switch operated by the front handle.
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You can always ask, whether you get a sensible answer..... I have Makita top handle saws, the sprocket comes off easily. It's not a clutch drum as on a petrol saw but there's a brake drum and band which can all be stripped out and cleaned, if you've never done this it is probably jammed up with sawdust. Think you just need a PZ2 screwdriver. Taking the brake spring out was a bit more annoying but still possible. Have a careful look at the parts diagrams you can find online to see the bits.
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He's using the Roman map of Scotland.
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.... but it is great habitat in the meantime, in the hollows, decaying wood and ivy. Personally I wouldn't race to take it down if you don't have to. I also wouldn't overthink the reduction work, it's not like it's going to compartmentalise the decay and carry on to form a beautiful tree, the cavities are there to stay and it's going to slowly fall apart whatever you do. Hack off bits before they fall off and injure someone for sure. Then take it down.
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I get an email some of the time, no answer is acceptable response and means no objection. Do your council have an online planning comment system? Ours do so my first step is check they have validated the notice and put dates against it. I think in theory once you have notified them the clock starts, but if you wait till after the 6 week target date on the system then no argument either way.
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A decent Stihl or Oregon chain will have chrome plating on the outside of the teeth, that's standard.
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Look at how much new spikes are too, I've been surprised how much they shot up. £200 on pads might be good value if they're comfortable.
