Dan Maynard

Doing cars, my dad would set the flange up in the vice, lay the gasket paper over, and then tap gently all round the edge with a small ball pein hammer to cut out the shape. Not sure I'd want to do it on a chainsaw carb though.

Saw the moon program yesterday, really interesting.

Too many variables, like choosing an anchor point. Don't think there is an upper limit on temperature either, but at some point you have to say it's too hot and sack it off before anyone gets heatstroke.

That's good. Always possible it can be a deeper problem but you have to do the basics first. The air filter is washable, in any case a service kit every couple of years is sensible. Depends how much you use it obviously, if it's having a good run every day then maybe service kit every year.

Looks like that to me too, we have one but not back boiler. That looks about the same size and I think ours was 6kW. No idea of value except it wasn't a super expensive stove new, welded steel box and cast doors.

Haix do a real lightweight that's cheaper but mate has them and they fell apart really fast. He's a groundie so just walking, although a fair bit of walking obviously.

Mine is a little different in that the fuel tank is a jerry can sat in the front of the machine. It has a couple of joints in the line, the bottom hose which dips into the tank had hardened and so not making a great seal. It would let air in when the fuel level was low so hard to start, one day split completely. The short term (on site) answer was lift the jerry can up with a log. To prime I held the open end of tube up and poured petrol in using the cap off a water bottle, doing that you could see petrol collecting in the fuel filter. New tube now , been absolutely fine since. The joints don't need to be super tight, mine have cable ties or spring clips. Just twist the tube and see if it's gripped on the spigot, it's not like these tubes are resisting a load of pressure trying to push them apart. My feeling with all this though is that struggling to prime stops the engine from starting up. Once it's running there is plenty of impulse so the pump gets going and priming is not the issue. Why connect on a new filter and short bit of hose, dip it in a small can of petrol and you'll isolate anything that could be an issue tank side? Air filter is really quick to check though, should do that regularly.

That looks a bit like it's on a mat indoors? Oaks don't like being indoors all year round.

Keep seeing rusty old frames with a glass top on in people's gardens, the glass obviously is perfect. At least before we get there....

Fuel filters are a couple of quid, find a YouTube vid on getting the old one out easily. Wash the air filter, change the plug. These things solve most starting problems to be honest.

That's basically the same engine as my chipper, also have an inline filter like that which always has a bubble in it. Fuel is sucked in by a pump under the air filter that's driven by a vacuum impulse line. It is true that if the pipe gets completely empty it can struggle to suck in to get started, but once it's running I've never had a problem with it getting enough fuel. Make sure the fuel tank is nice and full, that means less suction needed. My first check would be air filter though, you haven't mentioned checking that. Check the oil level, if it's low will kill the ignition. Also change the plugs, couple of quid to eliminate that possible problem.

I was wondering if they could have glass tops on, old garden tables would be about the right size.

It's getting to be quite a long time since the 346 was sold new now though, think there's a good chance anything you find will need a rebuild.

How is it when you hit a nail? I'm running Stihl full chisel on my 400, hit two nails recently and each time swear to change over to semi chisel but don't want to slow cutting down. General garden trees always run semi on my 261 as so much crap to hit.

True you do need a good towing capacity on the vehicle to use a tipper as the trailer itself will be heavy. Usually a 8x4 or 8x5 tipper will be 2700kg max gross so you get a fair bit of wood in that.

Been a couple of threads on it but not much feedback, seems like it cuts faster but maybe the files are just too expensive for widespread take-up. https://arbtalk.co.uk/forums/topic/132138-stihl-hexa-chain-whos-used-it-feedback/#comment-1996504

Tipper trailer for me, doesn't need an MOT but you need somewhere secure to store it else you'll find it takes itself away in the night.

I know of one locally which I reckon was hit by lightning a good few years ago, there are some dead limbs but being oak not much decay and so tree overall doing just fine. I think you need to wait a few years to even see what the effect has been, I guess the potential is a lot of root damage but maybe absolutely fine.

How much do you use it? I haven't got a winch but when I looked at the costs I thought buying a 2T Eder type winch was better value for money, can attach to truck if needed but also take it away and anchor to a tree in a garden or wood etc.

This is my understanding. If people don't want a stump grinding to save money, I tell them to go to Wickes and buy SBK. Unless it's conifer of course...

Not much but just found it super easy to split and ends up a good weight, bit like ash. Elm and ash probably the most common trees round here, both good stuff.

I don't think advising is a statutory function, making the decision to apply a TPO is and they don't charge for that.

Walnut

Besides, a two pulley setup is really effective for moving the rigging point away from the stem - nice big block high and central, and then pinto rig or RP066 positioned out and lower so that it gets a force vector straight down the branch. So, keep the block and also order the pinto rig. Maybe a sling or two and a few steel biners while you're there. Always come in handy.

Those jobs are perfect, the neighbour can have all the light cord too.