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Dan Maynard

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Everything posted by Dan Maynard

  1. 1/3 is a lot. The wood may be solid but is likely to decay and hollow though, you should ideally get reaction growth around the hole to compensate. The worry is that it stops food getting to the roots on that side, you then lose support on that side as they die. Of course it all depends where it is but if there are targets this seems like a tree you should get someone to come and look at in person.
  2. DeWalt and Makita are different league saws, the Makita stuff holds up. I've tried the T540i and no doubt it cuts fast, but it's bloody heavy. Imo. I take the Mak saws to arb sites and don't get piss taking, anyone who owns a T540i is really impressed how light the single battery one is. On hedges and reductions the cut speed is irrelevant, I'm very happy the saw is lighter. If you're comparing petrol saws it's like saying the 540 is superior in every way to the 525. Well it's more powerful and cuts faster, but it's bigger and heavier and I wouldn't want the extra weight if I don't need it.
  3. I've had some of the original black Bear valley ones for a few years, but I got some green ones more recently as wearing black in the sun not brilliant. The new ones have more ventilation in the side too. I like long sleeves in connie hedges in the winter but not summer, would ruin my T-shirt tan lines.
  4. Only one I can think of is latest Stihl that's supposed to be 261 equivalent, sadly it's quite a bit heavier. I've said before that I don't see battery taking over the big saws, it comes down to energy density. It's not a question like laptop or phones where the device efficiency has been so massively improved, cutting wood takes a certain amount of energy and so the fundamental physics are against you.
  5. Does the Makita 4 stroke blower have enough puff though? I've been looking at those myself. Id buy your DUC254 if you were local as I seem to have worn mine out, trigger or board fault. It's done a lot of pruning and a hell of a lot of hedge work, no need for cutting performance it's all about quick easy re-start when topping conifer, or having an engine running when you put it down.
  6. I don't honestly know if I'd feel safer in that or tied in to a dead beech. Doesn't look like any mewps I've used but of course not used many.
  7. You now know there is decay at the base of that limb, I would say a complete limb failure then becomes reasonably foreseeable even if reduced slightly so option 1 is out. I don't think complete removal of the limbs makes sense, you will increase the decay pocket and make stem failure more likely. To me that leaves option 2, or as above fell. I don't think you can avoid liability as such, unless as suggested above you get a consultant to specify the works it would be on them. My tree surgery insurance includes professional indemnity as long as I'm not paid for the advice, so in a case like this I would have a degree of cover. Doesn't make it an easy choice though. Some of it comes down to the client and owners attitude to the tree, if everyone hates it then removal becomes easier to recommend.
  8. Ah I see, retirement move to a secret location so people stop bringing you saws? Surely someone on here is near enough though?
  9. I looked at their dual action one, not convinced that it's really twice as fast as you have a much longer stroke too. My little splitter has quick auto return and that means you're sorting the next log while it's going up. I like the table type vertical splitter as the round sits on the table while you split pieces off, and I think means less bending over. That said, best idea so far is pay one of my children to run it.
  10. Going to depend on area, competition etc but I'd say 2 years ago, about £80 if you could find someone to buy them. Last year anything up to £150, next year, well anyone's guess. Somewhere in between I think. Some of the competition is internet sellers sending pallets so you can Google a certain amount to find a market rate. Some of the posh websites round here are really expensive.
  11. Crikey that is bad! At least you can point at what's wrong and know which bit to fix though.
  12. We can supply you some woodchip for mulch if you like, spud!
  13. I guess given that we are mostly in the UK, we're a bit limited in knowing what's normal. Also thinking about how close to the house they are, it would be worth having someone local and familiar with the tree species in your area have a look. See if you can find an ISA certified arborist.
  14. Put all the saws down on the lawn, not on the patio.
  15. I was looking at the cracks in the ground in the fields round us, they look like it should be the end of August but it's only June.
  16. My money's on the snow in April, if buds had started to emerge and then got frozen.
  17. The aspen is really expensive so that one hardly ran? Just joking - aspen impressively cleaner in the cylinder and exhaust port.
  18. I wouldn't suggest to make a 30cm cut on the main trunk either, whatever the time of year. This is horse chestnut which is maybe slightly less resistant to rot,but same idea that the heartwood in the centre of the cut will decay before it's closed over. This cut was only about 20cm across.
  19. Surely a bush like that 1m from the bay window blocks all the light anyway? I think the trouble with this question is to find a proper answer either wait till there is damage or do surveys, both of which cost far more than just removing the bush anyway. Personally I'd make a plan for the garden which includes more appropriate trees in better locations, and get those planted and establishing. In a few years then take out the one by the window. Otherwise in a few years you'll be posting to say you are worried about heave when removing trees 1m from the house.....
  20. That's the best pyracantha picture I've ever seen.
  21. You should also bear in mind that arbtalk advice at this time of night may be ever so slightly alcohol influenced.
  22. I had a customer with a willow covered in wasps and weird black things that I thought was fungus at first, turned out to be black aphids. Didn't know there were such a thing as these jet black aphids.
  23. We used to sleeve smaller motor shafts quite a bit in automation, to get things matching up. I guess the problem here would be the drive is probably through a key, and a sleeve would only be 1/16 wall thickness. Is it a pulley drive? Might be possible to buy new pulley with same outer but correct hole.
  24. Fair point I've never taken my M500 through a house, I'm working around the villages locally so just never comes up.
  25. If you're set on second hand then 461 is a good choice, old school durable and repairable so good ones are still fairly strong money. The 462 is modern lighter design, quicker but probably not going to last as well (I guess time will tell). 046 or 460 are going to be pretty old by now.

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