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Dan Maynard

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Everything posted by Dan Maynard

  1. He'll have a log of the daily quantities.
  2. I think Pfanner arborist are designed for climbing more than the gladiator, that's what I'm in anyway. Arborshite pro do last a lot better than normal but the price has gone up so much they aren't good value any more in my opinion.
  3. Synthplus is different to pretty much any other chain oil I've used though, it's runny when not moving. Your lower chain speed will keep it more runny. My DUC254 runs off the same single LXT battery as your saw, can't see a problem with low power. Try it. If it needs thinning then do, but I really don't think it will.
  4. I was about to rush off and order one - £287 inc vat on HB. They have one in stock. Somewhere they had that conversation "How many do we think we're going to sell? Maybe better just get the one."
  5. Try a VT, you have main wraps and diamond wraps to tune number of. For me it's got a nice smooth transition between on and off so great for MRT, too long for a rope wrench though.
  6. I got a very small bottle of oil with my DUC254 which confused me at the time, seems like it was chain oil like in the DUC101 picture. I've always used Stihl Synthplus in my DUC254 though, has been fine - it's not viscous and sticky like old school chain oil so I'd give that a go.
  7. I stayed, luckily this is as high as it came past my inner shutter....
  8. Floods here too. Roads full and it appears to have just about stopped rising before going in to my workshop , fingers crossed. Don't think any houses are lower in the village so fingers crossed we're all ok, but do feel for those people who've had it in.
  9. The 'trailer' was the measurement used when I was a lad.
  10. I run semi on my 261 all the time, fed up hitting rubbish in garden trees. I'd guess it lasts 4 times as long so even if you bought one loop it'd save you money.
  11. Just rolled in from my local, had a few pints with a mate and couldn't get two pints out of a tenner. I evidently need to move north.
  12. If it's that bad I'd look seriously at some semi-chisel, cut is a bit slower but you'd spend a lot less time filing and the chains last longer.
  13. Clearly having arse/elbow trouble if they think that's a poplar.
  14. I was on tree of heaven from the first photo. I think they're opposite, just a bit off, rather than full half way between alternating.
  15. Actually I'm thinking given that wording a nice crown reduction not prohibited...
  16. Can't see why, you don't need permission to remove deadwood either. Quote from the gov website: "An Order prohibits the: cutting down topping lopping uprooting wilful damage wilful destruction of trees without the local planning authority’s written consent."
  17. Make a nice clean cut after wrapping it. If you can heatshrink the end it lasts better. You'll also need a new stopper knot in the top bit, otherwise you won't stop till you've gone past the gap.
  18. It's absolutely definitely wood after all.
  19. Is that the finished job? Bit odd the way all the tops are the same height if so, it's what I would call a flat top. Not great shape. I wouldn't worry too much because it will grow back, but next time I'd ask for some photos of reductions the tree surgeon has done before and satisfy yourself they know what they're doing.
  20. I don't think I'd touch it either, in my mind though you have to assess whether you think there is a risk of the steel cables or U bolts failing? Especially the U bolts as they look to be corroding. If a cable breaks then you have a very sudden change in load on the wood, might happen in a storm and then I'd guess much more likely to have a limb failure. Maybe in that case you'd need to set some new cables or put some backup ones in.
  21. I'm a bit confused too, only ever needed a quick go with a flat file on my bars. Maybe a bit of draw filing to sort out burrs on top of rail but nothing that needs a grinder.
  22. Wanted PTO so not including an engine at least.
  23. Maybe it works, can't rely on the quality descriptions on AliExpress... Electric saw blade is a high wear item, metal chain rides on metal track, metal to metal wear quickly, even if you add fuel, your bar still wear heavily, the grille becomes wider, causing the chain to wander, making the saw cut bent, as the chain swings between the tracks, this tool will quickly close the gap to factory specifications
  24. Not had them side by side but different part numbers so I'd reckon it's a no.
  25. Look a bit like the engine has moved forward a mm or two? If the engine bolts slip a bit then with the vibration they have been under stress cycling so failed through fatigue. The end of weld and sharp corners at the thread make this a great spot for a crack to start. I guess one answer would be tension the belt, tighten down the engine, then unload the studs.

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