Dan Maynard
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Everything posted by Dan Maynard
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Used to use newspaper as a kid, nowadays plenty of cardboard Amazon packaging around.
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Cost for hedge cutting ph and waste removal
Dan Maynard replied to Karldg's topic in Business Management
Bit worried, you've got teabags on there twice without any milk. Shows how it all adds up though, I tend to lose hedge jobs against gardeners working out of a car but I don't mind. -
I thought that, but the other rule of thumb is that without friction the tension will be the same all the way along the rope, else it would move where the tension changes. This is how you can work out mechanical advantage in 3-1 or 5-1 systems by counting ropes. My suspicion here is the friction at the alpine almost locks that point, so the tension is not the same along the rope. I haven't really thought it through though, was just musing.
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Difference between stihl ms 261 cm and stihl ms 261 nonmtronic
Dan Maynard replied to Ivan11's topic in Chainsaws
I think all the 261s here are m-tronic for several years, so it's not an easy comparison for us either. The IPL would give you a definite answer, maybe somewhere on the internet you could find one or maybe you need to be a Stihl dealer. I think it's just coil, carb, on-off switch, maybe flywheel though. All the usual bar, sprocket, chain brake, oil pump, clutch etc you're likely to need will be the same. -
Can you see any cones? Usually a good clue there to confirm.
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Shoot me for it but I've always run 0.6 wire for car bodywork, started on my Vauxhall Chevette. General fab, angle iron etc then 0.8 gives better penetration.
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Is it equalising though? If you neglect friction (say put a pulley on the top right and a riding pulley on the midpoint) then there are two ropes top right but only one on the left.
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Conifer hedge in Peterborough. Flail needed.
Dan Maynard replied to Mark Bolam's topic in General chat
Ooo even better, two cuts a year! Now you're talking! -
What chipper is it? Some are fairly well known for chassis fail or rusting.
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Conifer hedge in Peterborough. Flail needed.
Dan Maynard replied to Mark Bolam's topic in General chat
How tall is it starting? If it starts at 13ft I'm your man. Actually scratch that I'm not desperate for 100m conifer hedge. Matt Bell at GTS is not far from Peterborough and he has the most machinery I know of in this area, tractors, flails, merlo, heizohack etc. -
Pretty sure that's what my small Honda engines do, it's more an ignition kill switch than a sensor.
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I was writing a long answer but the problem here isn't the winch is it? Relying on the hinge strength in dead pop is bad strategy before the saw even started.
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Beech tree recovery from being heavily pruned?
Dan Maynard replied to Bumblebee's question in Homeowners Tree Advice Forum
Lime not beech, so the decay will be worse and the sprouting more. Will probably be 10 years before you see any problem though. Not great, but not much you can do now either, except deal with problems that do happen rather than problems that might happen. We've got a topped lime in the churchyard where I live, the cut face is now a big bowl of mush. Others that were cut to 5m poles are dying, one is pretty much mush for the whole base and needs to come down.
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Those bootlaces are fab! Hopefully at the bottom of the garden there's not much around if it falls over?
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Looking for LOLER inspector near Heathrow
Dan Maynard replied to Meadstreecare's topic in General chat
Simon at bowline travels , it works out best if you can get a load of kits together though. -
I'll have a look at those, I'd like something better for my trailer too. I have a bulldog heavy wheel clamp for my defender, and it is a bastard to put on and off to be honest. 6mm steel so reckon it has to take a bit of cutting.
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Cool, that'll be interesting to see how it goes - do please report back in a year or two.
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Temporary or permanent? Wheel clamps seem to get cut off easily, I've got one on but also a 19mm chain down to ground anchor that's under the trailer so harder to interfere with.
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I saw the beginning then highlights. England played much more like they should do given the players, but the Swiss defence were very well organised so it was a pretty tight match all along.
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I was wondering about tying it to straighten, sure I've seen it in my pruning book.
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That lopper head on the AUS looks the same as my Bahco pradines head. I reckon it's pretty good, I've just got it on the 3 section telescopic pole so a lot less cost than that set. Thing is the blade enters the cut from below so long overhangs don't work well, you just need to do those in a couple of bits.
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@Jase hutch is your man.
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I usually drive a Nissan every Friday, I think the fundamental parameters are similar - stiff springs for load capacity, short wheelbase means really good turning circle but the combination gives a terrible ride if the road causes pitching. For urban tree work, I wouldn't want anything else - getting in tight driveways, Uturn in cul-de-sac, easier reversing overall. If you're regularly driving half an hour in the countryside you'd better not be susceptible to seasickness.
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Seen them with chippers round here - operated without any ear protection after lions tailing the tree in someone's front garden one handing a 200T. I gave a friendly wave as we passed but the guy just glared back.
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Or.. to put the opposite point of view, use the best oil you can. It's such a small percentage of my operating costs I don't see any reason to scrimp, and good oil means my bars last a very long time. Likewise I run Stihl chains, why spend a fortune on a saw then hold it back by not using the best chain? In the end I think it's more philosophical than practical, you're not going to get rich on the money saving on oil vs bars either way.
