Dan Maynard
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Everything posted by Dan Maynard
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Coletti beat me to it. I thought about it because I hired a Timberwolf 13/75 once where the anvil gap was about 8mm, terrible on anything small as it all just got dragged through instead of cut and then of course that would clog it up. I also just wonder if there's something on the engine like air filter blocked, throttle cable set wrong, governor spring or whatever meaning you are not getting full rpm? That definitely will cause poor chipping, blocking, etc.
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I have one, mine is on its second engine but some of it may be just as old as your hire one. It throws chip well, leaves less so. I have a 12 foot trailer and if I park it at the back the chip will easily reach the front, although some leaves will fall down in the gap so I usually tarp. It doesn't block often although you can block it, big lumps of Leylandii will do it if you let go the whole thing in one but just need to hold back part of it for a second or two. I sort of watch and judge how it gets on to gauge whether to slow it, most bits can just be thrown in. I do have quick release clamps on the chute though which is apparently a JB option, so blockage isn't a major trauma (no spanner, v quick to pop off and poke out). If it's a hire machine you've got though, question would be is it sharp and is the anvil gap correct? I'm assuming though that you are familiar with effect of sharpness from your CS100.
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Judging from the number of adverts that don't get much response on here the constraint might well be staff rather than work for them to do.
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I think she's saying 'All right boys, well done for cutting it down. Now cut me a log off the end.'
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Just to pick up on the earlier point about previous conflicts and whether they were hard as nails, my wife's great grandfather died in 1920 from alcohol poisoning, her great uncle went up the fields in 1919 and shot himself. Nobody called it PTSD but they were never right when they came back from the trenches. I am not ex forces so no direct experience but I do think as a country we have a responsibility to our veterans, whether it's best done by the MoD or NHS or charity or someone else I'm not sure.
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Yes, in the same situation doing trees part time I paid the insurance, did more tree work, and pushed my pricing up a little bit on private jobs to help cover it. As others have said, without it you're definitely not properly insured when someone else is helping you even if they are volunteering or have their own insurance. My conclusion, it's another one of the things which fill the gap between what people think tree surgeons make (because they charge a lot) and what they actually make.
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Buy the Dolmar version, it's orange.
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Work on a footpath - Signage, pedestrian management etc.
Dan Maynard replied to William Clifford's topic in General chat
Looks like a pretty steady stream of cars, not somewhere I'd be looking to take chances. My thought would be that the hedge needs reshaping (eg clear right around barrier) so it can be managed with a flail in future, needing TM every year will be bonkers. -
The 271 291 391 series are the non-pro so comparatively heavy and slow. If you think Stihl you should look rather at 261 or 362, depending on what bar and what weight you are happy with.
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Never ever heard of a shelf life on it, likewise lube oil - only petrol which has volatile parts that evaporate.
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My dad always used to keep the chainsaw bar wrapped in a pair of jeans instead of plastic bar cover.
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Thanks, will bear you in mind. Actually looked at a job once with about 30 conifers to remove, didn't get it as I don't have the kit - should have just given them your number.
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I think like a lot of things it's easier once you get started, all the above advice spot on. One thing my climbing assessor said was to just be honest about your ability, he was fed up of people claiming to be hotshots and then doing something stupid. They are advertising for someone that needs to learn on the job so that's perfect for you. The only thing which might cause you to fail is standing around with your hands in your pockets when there's stuff to be done, unforgivable that.
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In the end our man Steve knew somebody local who turned up in a pickup and took the logs, and we were able to squeeze all the chip into one load on the tipper so didn't have to make the call. Hoping to get muttley to come and mill it now.
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I haven't heard about dropping a file size, I was told to just tip the file up a touch to avoid the strap but it does make sense to me. Going from .027 to .045 on the depth gauges though seems madness. It says only .018 more but that is an increase of 66%. Put the other way round, if this is right my worn chain still set at .027 has only 60% of the step it should have, so surely it would hardly cut? In fact those old chains are rippers, I wouldn't want any more off the rakers. I think they're bonkers, but has anyone actually done this to the rakers with good results?
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I think regarding charge times the no free lunch rule applies. power = volts x amps So on a cigarette lighter you might get 7 or 8 amps, lose a bit in conversion and the charger will output 80watts. On a 13A domestic socket the most you can have is about 3000watts, you'd need a bigger circuit to do 5000 (eg electric showers are typically 7500 to 10000 watts). Edit have just thought about this, 300 or 500 watts makes a lot more sense. I'm sceptical about that inverter running 1500watts because that would need at least 125amps at 12volts, chipper alternator likely to output half that, need cables as thick as your finger etc. If the charger is really 500 watts though then it would manage it as that would need a more realistic 22 amps at 12 volts. Still heavy though. What about a small petrol generator like campers and caravanners use? Lot quieter than running the chipper.
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Thank you, I'll give him a call and see what happens.
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I rate Stihl chain over Oregon, haven't done any scientific comparison but after changing from Oregon to Stihl semi chisel in the middle of the day once on my 261 I definitely thought the Stihl cut faster and smoother. I also decided that chain isn't my major running expense so if the Stihl chain makes me feel better then I'll just buy it. Pointless cutting cost on chain, like putting cheap tyres on a sports car.
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As above, have a job on Saturday in Rushden which is outside our normal area, would be handy if anyone knows a tip site nearby please. It's all cedar, there will also be logs if anyone wants them.
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I've used Paul at Green Wood Tree Surgery over in Isleham, he's a good guy but it is a bit of a trek. Would be good to find someone closer or there are people who travel around. My kit needs doing and I'm also near Huntingdon so may be good to collaborate?
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We have the tour of Cambridgeshire through here, it takes 4 or 5 hours.
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I had a conversation about this with the guy who sold me my trailer, which is rated to 2700kg but car max 1800kg towing. He said they used to offer new plates with reduced weight stamped on for people who wanted to tow them with cars but they don't do any more after the rules changed. BUT he didn't want me to take that as legal advice and in any case I tow it with a Landrover now anyway. Nearest to a proper answer from https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/towing-a-trailer-with-a-car-or-van/towing-a-trailer-with-a-car-or-van-the-basics Where the sum of the maximum plated weights of the towing vehicle and of the trailer added together exceed the plated GCW of the towing vehicle, this is not a problem as long as the ‘actual’ weights of the vehicle and trailer (which may not be fully laden at the time) do not exceed the plated GCW. So it's down to the weighbridge....
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Tree removal, heave worry
Dan Maynard replied to Wigan_TRAV's question in Homeowners Tree Advice Forum
Other question would be the property age, looks fairly new in which case will have good deep foundations. -
We had quite a lot of posts rot and snap off round the garden when I was a lad, windy by the sea. We had a bit of 1" pipe sharpened a little, with a few nails welded along it points up. You could bang that down into the slightly rotten wood and then we used a long timber lever with an axle stand under one end and jack under the other to lift out the whole lump. Few taps (!) with a hammer to split the concrete and get the pipe back. This way we could drop the jack then raise the axle stand after each lift to get several stages up. I do like Bob's lever though, very elegant.
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I don't have one but I think I've seen Husky depth gauges with different settings for hard and soft wood anyway, would be interested to know how much that change is but I guess more than 3 thou as that's only just over 10%.
