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Dan Maynard

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Everything posted by Dan Maynard

  1. It is commercial waste but as long as you stick to transporting material which is arisings from your own work then as nepia said registering is free. Depends where you are, tip site directory may be your friend or you might need to ring around. Near us the options are green waste with Amey Cespa where they weigh the load and charge a commercial rate or else there are a couple of commercial compost producers who like the wood fibre and so do loads for a lower flat rate. Taking it back to the yard and burning it has had its day, you should not do that any more.
  2. They start well and cut well, no problems with stale fuel or any of that rubbish. I haven't done a comparison test really. I was recommended Super or Ultra for my Kombi engine as the valves less likely to foul up. Stihl have a little chart showing it should mean more power and engine life which is sort of what I'm trusting in, on the basis oil is cheaper than replacing saws.
  3. Thanks for this, this is exactly the kind of thing I was thinking of. I knew MDF dust was dangerous but not really other sawdust?
  4. We've had quite a few pet rabbits, some don't dig but when you get one that has the urge they are quite hard to stop, chicken wire all across the bottom periodically renewed is where I ended up. We never really seemed to have a problem with rats, though they were about at some times we would see they'd been stealing food from the chickens. Overall plan sounds great though, rabbits will love it.
  5. I use Ultra, it is more expensive per litre than super. FR Jones have started doing 5l cans at 65+vat that mixes with 250 litres of petrol so about 26p+vat on top of petrol cost per litre doesn't sound too bad - still a lot less than Motomix/Aspen.
  6. I believe it is, I went for Radmore and Tucker as basically same price, I wanted 60cm, and I thought they were more likely to be helpful if there are any issues. They were helpful when I rang up with a question and also did next day delivery so no complaints.
  7. I absolutely respect anybody's choice to use Aspen, for me at the moment cost and the thought of stripping all the carbs is putting me off changing. I guess if I seriously thought the pump fuel was going to give me cancer I would change tomorrow, same as I don't smoke, so its an important question. Bacon, toast, pvc are carcinogenic but we tolerate those risks. What I am trying to do is scratch the surface of the manufacturers claims and see what evidence is there. My dad worked with asbestos as a marine engineer, his lungs aren't great but the guys who were pipe laggers working full time with the stuff died young. Likewise miners lung was terrible, none made old age. The reason I mentioned smoking is that a good proportion of the working population would have smoked at work so it may be difficult to point at exactly what caused any lung problems which now exist, if the benzene risk is low then it may be masked. Even smoking was argued about a great deal before mainstream acceptance that it was harmful, not sure where we are with benzene. Ideally perhaps we could check this out in medical journals but just thought we might have enough people on here who are or know old cutters that could share experiences.
  8. I think others have had similar experiences with Makita UK being a bit useless. If you compare specs you can see the hedge trimmers on the Makita page are the same as the ones on dolmar.de , description points are more or less direct translation across. EH6000W and HT2360D for example.
  9. Not just the young uns, mine are 13, wouldn't say I've noticed any change over the years. I always say big feet ..... big shoes.
  10. I was thinking this, probably forestry cutters most at risk due to constant exposure? Are there any stats or were they all smoking rollups anyway so difficult to isolate a cause of lung damage?
  11. Hitchclimber is ok on any rope, it's really about what friction cord you match up. Personally I climb on 13mm because I have big hands and find it easier to grip.
  12. I bought some a couple of months ago from Radmore and Tucker £250+vat, cost a little more than the cheaper Stihls but vibration levels much lower which I like. So far so good, agree with the comment it's a lightweight trimmer rather than heavy rough cutter but those are much more expensive and heavy.
  13. I think you need to get a copy of the radio times and look in the back just after the comfy shoes, there you will find the elasticated trousers. Seriously, no idea about the shears but do you really want to be committed to zipping around a load of them over and over? I reckon a more radical prune somewhere near ground level would sort them out.
  14. You would need to have the app running I guess, that would work using GPS which is available anywhere as it comes from satellites You are right though, you can't look at two codes and know how far apart they are - bit like postcodes in that regard I guess.
  15. I think you have to work out what you do most of, I resisted getting a 150 as I'm tight but actually now use it much more than the 201. For hedge or smaller trees it is great (easier to handle, cleaner cutting), for bigger dismantling then you want a bigger saw but you could use your rear handled for that in the meantime. I would seriously look at the 2511 / 150 if you can before getting the 540, but eventually you should get both sizes so it's not a right/wrong question which to get.
  16. This is interesting, as nepia says all the world is already mapped and 3 words are enough. Does the same job as a GPS location but less error prone for humans to write and copy. I'm intrigued how they have handled homophones though, red/read could be miles apart so have to be careful when spoken.
  17. My 2p would be agree 261, 462 but only put a 16" bar on the 261, that's enough for it in my opinion and if the timber is getting to 18" then you will be reaching for the 462. I'd have a 150T instead of the 661 as well, but obviously depends where you are and what you cut.
  18. If it's a hot day and saw left in the sun then some parts of the petrol can evaporate, so the bubbles can be petrol vapour rather than air. If you have a bulb, pump it to send fresh petrol through the carb can help. I don't have primer bulb but do find sometimes opening fuel tank to relieve pressure will help, although I did this last week and the petrol all boiled up and jumped out of the tank. Refilled with combi can from the shade and it was all good again.
  19. As above, I've not had mine long but very pleased with it. Not cheap but well built. I bought the Spaltaxt 6 as I wanted an electric splitter for my own wood and sell a few cube. Doesn't have the power to split really knotty stuff, but ram speed and especially return speed is good (for electric) and I like the table working position. If I get really knotty bits I just throw them away, not worth time messing around as there is always another log.
  20. Somewhere further up was a list of better known/good makes, I would add Posch which you can buy from Wilson machinery - I also found them great to deal with.
  21. Admittedly it's a couple of years since I read up but it used to have lower ethanol content and better detergent package. This is based on Esso and Shell websites, I stick to branded rather than supermarket. Maybe worth trying to read up again given the current discussion.
  22. I'm pretty sceptical, fuel additive products come and go and always claim to be essential and give lower emissions, better starting etc. If you want fuel stabilization then use Stihl Ultra 2 stroke oil in super unleaded, or use Aspen/Motomix. This is taken from the Frost website: Will the Ethomix additive, when added to pump petrol, counteract all the problems Ethanol blended fuels will cause to Classic Cars? We think we have a pretty good product, but regrettably it will not cure all the ethanol issues.
  23. Thanks for that, will read and digest.
  24. Interesting article, especially the research on water flow in the stump being directly related to flow in neighbours. I have read in one of my books (can't remember which now) about this water flow thing, my wife still teaches that transpiration pulls water through a tree in biology classes but it must be more complicated. How does water get up the tree in spring when sap rising? And when I lop branches off why do I sometimes get sap flowing out of the cut ends (esp birch, maple)? In fact, how does a pollard survive?
  25. Unfortunately the customers will bias the selection to their favour....

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